Found another reason for my window to not line up.
I have an early car, that has the metal piece with rollers
attached to the front of the glass, which rides in the
chrome channel.
The glass seems to be moving with respect to the metal
now, so even though I haven't taken it apart I think I
will need to re-glue the piece.
What is going to hold these together? Another job that
I don't want to do twice if I can avoid it.
Thanks,
Full Version: What will glue window glass to metal again?
Rear view mirror adhesive. Better get it right the 1st time it pretty permanent.
Windshield Butyl.
All glass shops will have it in 2 forms: 1. roll of tape style 2. caulking gun style.
I suggest number 1.
B
All glass shops will have it in 2 forms: 1. roll of tape style 2. caulking gun style.
I suggest number 1.
B
3m makes a glue for that.
What are you people, on dope?
Mr. Hand
The only proper adhesive for attaching a window glass to an "appliance" (i.e. anything that holds the window to the regulatoror or guides the window to the right spot) is urethane. Butyl wont hold up to movement, particularly when it gets warm, and rear view mirror tab adhesive is only suited for exactly that purpose.
Clean the glass and prime the metal, you will have a nearly indestructable bond. Oh, and don't get it on anything you don't want it on. Stuff is wicked. The only thing that cleans it up worth a damn is enamel reducer, which is fairly evil stuff in its own right.
Mr. Hand
The only proper adhesive for attaching a window glass to an "appliance" (i.e. anything that holds the window to the regulatoror or guides the window to the right spot) is urethane. Butyl wont hold up to movement, particularly when it gets warm, and rear view mirror tab adhesive is only suited for exactly that purpose.
Clean the glass and prime the metal, you will have a nearly indestructable bond. Oh, and don't get it on anything you don't want it on. Stuff is wicked. The only thing that cleans it up worth a damn is enamel reducer, which is fairly evil stuff in its own right.
Thanks all, now I will have something to do in the fall,
unless it falls out before then.
unless it falls out before then.
I used 3M super weatherstrip adhesive on mine.
If you apply a thin layer to the metal and the glass, then let it dry, then put the pieces together it works great.
It also removes easily with the usual solvents in case you line up the metal piece incorrectly the first time... like I did.
Clean up all the rollers etc... real good so there is no binding when the window goes up and down.
If you apply a thin layer to the metal and the glass, then let it dry, then put the pieces together it works great.
It also removes easily with the usual solvents in case you line up the metal piece incorrectly the first time... like I did.
Clean up all the rollers etc... real good so there is no binding when the window goes up and down.
QUOTE(mskala @ Jul 17 2005, 08:25 PM) 
Found another reason for my window to not line up.
I have an early car, that has the metal piece with rollers
attached to the front of the glass, which rides in the
chrome channel.
The glass seems to be moving with respect to the metal
now, so even though I haven't taken it apart I think I
will need to re-glue the piece.
What is going to hold these together? Another job that
I don't want to do twice if I can avoid it.
Thanks,
I too have a old window mechanism (71). Looking for concensus on what is the correct adhesive to use to fasten the front metal guide to the glass. thistothat.com recommends JB Weld or a Locktite product. What about the other rewcommendations made in this thread. How are they holding up? Anybody else use JB Weld?
Also, for same setup, where does the metal guide acually sit on the window? How far up from the bottom or how far down from the top does the guide sit. I can look at the passenger side for reference, but I don't know if that one is sitting in the right position either
Any ideas?
Surprised no one mentioned plain old silicone. Glass to glass or glass to anything.
The same stuff people glue windshields in with. Urethane
QUOTE(McMark @ May 16 2012, 09:25 AM)
The same stuff people glue windshields in with. Urethane
Would Gorilla Glue do the job then? It does state that it will glue metal and glass.
Urethane. You can buy a product called Vulchem. 100% pure urethane. Its what windshield shops, and commercial glass and mirror installers use. Its also available at most body shop supply places.
QUOTE(aircooledboy @ Jul 18 2005, 08:02 AM)
What are you people, on dope?
Mr. Hand
<!-- emo&:woohoo: -->
<!-- endemo --> <!-- emo&:lol: --><!-- endemo --> The only proper adhesive for attaching a window glass to an "appliance" (i.e. anything that holds the window to the regulatoror or guides the window to the right spot) is urethane. Butyl wont hold up to movement, particularly when it gets warm, and rear view mirror tab adhesive is only suited for exactly that purpose.
Clean the glass and prime the metal, you will have a nearly indestructable bond. Oh, and don't get it on anything you don't want it on. Stuff is wicked. The only thing that cleans it up worth a damn is enamel reducer, which is fairly evil stuff in its own right. <!-- emo&:beer2: -->
<!-- endemo -->As is often the case here, they just make shit up. I agree, and so would every glass guy with half a clue, URETHANE is the ONLY thing that works properly.
The Cap'n
silicone rtv works fine. No shit.
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ May 16 2012, 12:01 PM)
QUOTE(aircooledboy @ Jul 18 2005, 08:02 AM)
What are you people, on dope?
Mr. Hand
<!-- emo&:woohoo: -->
<!-- endemo --> <!-- emo&:lol: --><!-- endemo --> The only proper adhesive for attaching a window glass to an "appliance" (i.e. anything that holds the window to the regulatoror or guides the window to the right spot) is urethane. Butyl wont hold up to movement, particularly when it gets warm, and rear view mirror tab adhesive is only suited for exactly that purpose.
Clean the glass and prime the metal, you will have a nearly indestructable bond. Oh, and don't get it on anything you don't want it on. Stuff is wicked. The only thing that cleans it up worth a damn is enamel reducer, which is fairly evil stuff in its own right. <!-- emo&:beer2: -->
<!-- endemo -->As is often the case here, they just make shit up. I agree, and so would every glass guy with half a clue, URETHANE is the ONLY thing that works properly.
The Cap'n
Hello Cap'n!
Thanks for the vote. Urethane it is!
Any thoughts on where exactly the metal guide should sit on the window?
Thanks!
Edit wrong thread
QUOTE(tommy914 @ Jul 19 2005, 02:52 PM)
I used 3M super weatherstrip adhesive on mine.
If you apply a thin layer to the metal and the glass, then let it dry, then put the pieces together it works great.
It also removes easily with the usual solvents in case you line up the metal piece incorrectly the first time... like I did.
Clean up all the rollers etc... real good so there is no binding when the window goes up and down.
Anybody know where the metal window guide sits on the glass (for old style mechanism). I'm ready to glue the darn thing. There's got to be a dimension associated with this!
Slight 
I just had my Pass window fail like this as well, but mine is a late regulator (74).
On the later style the glass is glued into a rubber U channel which is in turn glued (?) into the regulator guide.
Cleaning that Guide it looks like they used Butyl to secure the rubber wrapped glass edge into the Guide
If the glass is adjusted properly there should never be so much stiction to cause the galss to pull out of the assembly?
I just had my Pass window fail like this as well, but mine is a late regulator (74). On the later style the glass is glued into a rubber U channel which is in turn glued (?) into the regulator guide.
Cleaning that Guide it looks like they used Butyl to secure the rubber wrapped glass edge into the Guide
If the glass is adjusted properly there should never be so much stiction to cause the galss to pull out of the assembly?
I haven't looked at my 914 but all the american cars used a asphalt looking tape the was wrapped on the glass edge and pressed into a channel. A lot of times the channel would rust out and loose it's tension on the glass. My local auto glass shop would stock the new metal channel that you had to cut the roller brackets off the old piece and weld them to the new piece. If all the metal is good I would glue it back with urethane. As a replacement urethane you could use NP1, it's a industrial caulk and sealer and is really good stuff.
The auto glass guy went to a class to learn how to use the urethane stuff he uses. I think his process uses a glass primer and all the stuff is a system like ppg paints.
The auto glass guy went to a class to learn how to use the urethane stuff he uses. I think his process uses a glass primer and all the stuff is a system like ppg paints.
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