I am trying to remove the distributor from my '73 1.7. I have removed everything incl the 13 mm nut under the vacuum advance canister. I was told it will now just pull right out. No go. I have soaked the heck out of the base of the distributor with PB Blaster and it still wont pull out.
I am taking it out because the long clamp bolt at the front cannot loosen up and I am afraid of snapping it off while the distrib is in the car. Does this bolt need to be loose to remove the distributor?
Any suggestions on how to get it out? I am getting close to taking a pry bar and trying to lever it out.
Many thanks for the advice.
Ed

The bar clamp needs to come loose. Its been a while since I HAD a distributer in my car, but IIRC there is a screw or small bolt that holds the clamp in place (which is probably hidden by the body of the dizzy.) Prying is a really bad idea that will end up in frustration and broken parts.

Try turning the bar while prying gently between the tabs with the tip of a flathead screwdriver. If the threads are stripped, this might help the clamp find threads that are still in tact. If it just rusted in place, more penetrating oil (I like mixing ATF and Acetone 50/50 for this - it has never failed me)

Zach

Yes, there's an M8 (13mm head size) nut holding the clamp to the engine block, this must be removed first.

Thanks guys. I have removed the 13mm nut that holds the distributor to the engine.
I was told once this was removed, the distrib would pull out.
There was no need to loosen the long 10 mm clamp bolt???
Forgot to mention in first post, this car has been sitting for about 15 yrs. Trying to get it started.
Got oil pressure, fuel, but no spark. New plugs, wires, points, coil. Only left is the condenser. That looked impossible to change while the distrib was still in the car.
Plus I know the distrib needs to rotate for timing / tune up purposes. Have to get that 10 MM long bolt loose too.

Try gently prying the clamp / bracket up. Also, the o-ring which seals the distributor shaft in the case may be hardened and stubborn.

That is correct.


No. In fact, on a properly-tuned engine, NOT removing that allows you to retain ignition timing when you reinstall the disty.


Does the disty rotate?

Ensure that the clamp is not hung up on the threads of the stud where the 13mm socket nut was. Then rotate the disty while gently prying up on the clamp.

As IanKarr said, the problem is likely an old, hardened o-ring on the dizzy shaft. I had a similar problem with my car. I had to gently pry up on the body of the dizzy with a very large screwdriver to get the dizzy to start moving up and out of the engine case. It’s best to set the engine to TDC when removing the dizzy to make it easier to reset the timing upon re-installation.

Agree it is probably a hard O-ring. You don't HAVE to loosen the clamp, but having recently done this, being able to rotate the dizzy body back and forth as you pull it out of the bore can be a great help in removing a stubborn unit. The twisting breaks the O-ring loose from the bore wall for easier removal.

Many thanks for the suggestions. Will give them a try this weekend.
Ed