Hi
who has ever tried to remove rust from inside the center tunnel? I thought I saw some pictures in one of the forums about that subject, but can't locate them again.

The difficulty of course is to get at it. Open it?

Happy about any idea and/or experience.

Thanks.

Werner

I blocked off the tunnel openings with modeling clay and poured Evaporust in and let it soak for a day or so.

Well, since I'm doing a Subaru conversion (no engine or trans with my roller), I cut out the back of the tunnel and took a small "chimney sweep" type brush welded onto a 4 foot piece of threaded rod. Worked ok in a 3/8" drill. Treated with rust converter, and ordered some more of the Eastwood Internal Frame paint that comes with the little tubing mounted nozzle to get inside tight places.

These pics should give you an idea of what I tried...
Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Here's the link for the Eastwood Internal Frame paint:
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-...oz-aerosol.html

May the Force be with you! It's a challenging area to deal with, for sure.

Very creative!

I assume you had to put the clay all the way up the tunnel at the seams to the floorpan to keep it from weeping out? Or, was it only deep enough to just fill the low lying depression?

Here's my "Southern Engineered" wire brush for the tunnel:
Click to view attachment

Initially, I had it attached to a flexible shaft for my drill. It worked pretty well at low speeds, until it broke on me. I got into the tunnel via the opening near the pedal box, and the shifter opening. You could get to a lot of the tunnel that way...

Hi, thanks for your input. I have never heard of evaporust before. Do you just remove the fluid after its done, or do you have to spill the tunnel after the treatment?

Thanks for your info and the pictures. I might be able to use a brush through the gear shift opening - since I am not planning to open the car as you did. I did think about (partially) open the tunnel from the top, though.

Evaporust has become my favorite stuff. The secret is long soak time, at least 24 hours.

You can drain it out, and it will dry to leave a moderately rust-resistant coating. Or rinse with water if you plan to paint.

Just at the big holes and small gaps. Just enough to fill the low areas. When time to empty i raised the rear of the car and stuffed rags in the front to absorb the liquid. Also had a rust hole in the lower firewall an did the same thing. Same process for each quarter of the floor pan. 1 gallon did the whole pan.


@Superhawk996

[quote name='plutothepointer' date='Feb 4 2021, 03:28 PM' post='2888378']
[quote name='bdstone914' post='2888092' date='Feb 3 2021, 10:08 PM']

I blocked off the tunnel openings with modeling clay and poured Evaporust in and let it soak for a day or so.
[/quote]

Hi, thanks for your input. I have never heard of evaporust before. Do you just remove the fluid after its done, or do you have to spill the tunnel after the treatment?
[/quote


@plutothepointer

I rinsed it with detergent and water after Evaporust. I dont know if it is available in Europe. Great stuff. Non toxic and non corrosive.

Thanks. I will probably try to paint it and therefore rinse the tunnel with water.

[quote name='bdstone914' date='Feb 5 2021, 05:08 AM' post='2888487']
[quote name='plutothepointer' date='Feb 4 2021, 03:28 PM' post='2888378']
[quote name='bdstone914' post='2888092' date='Feb 3 2021, 10:08 PM']

I blocked off the tunnel openings with modeling clay and poured Evaporust in and let it soak for a day or so.
[/quote]

Hi, thanks for your input. I have never heard of evaporust before. Do you just remove the fluid after its done, or do you have to spill the tunnel after the treatment?
[/quote


@plutothepointer

I rinsed it with detergent and water after Evaporust. I dont know if it is available in Europe. Great stuff. Non toxic and non corrosive.
[/quote]

Thanks. I googled. In Germany it is available from Amazon.