Hi all,
I purchased Dr. Evils DVD’s last year and am finally getting to it.

I did the tear down today, a little intimidating to say the least but following the DVD with a lot of pausing and playback.

I gave my transmission case a closer look and I am a little concerned regarding the below image.

Has anyone else had a similar situation and how did you address

What would Dr. Evil do?

Thanks,

Gary


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Would sure appreciate any of the experts weighing in on this.

Thanks a bunch.

Gary

Not sure...I do know if the races spin that's not a good thing.

What are you seeing that you don't like?

Hi Gents,

Thanks for replying.

It's that middle section.

I have highlighted it.

It looks like a piece broke off between the two openings.

Thanks,

Gary

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There is nothing broken. That's the original casting. The gap helps in removing and installing the outer race retaining clip rings.

Thank you Oldie!

Thanks to all of you for your input.

Waiting on a few things and will start buttoning up the Transmission this weekend.

Wew,
Just to give you some peace of mind
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Those outer races should be snug in their bore, to keep them from turning in the case. I have successfully used green Loctite, made for bearing race applications like this, when the race does not have sufficient interference to lock it in place.

Thank you for sharing.

Going to start on the seals this afternoon.

Waiting on a few parts including trans syncro rings and bands, as well as looking for a local machine shop or tool to remove the trans gear teeth from gear 1 and pressing new teeth on.

Stay tuned and looking forward to getting this baby on the road...

I am sure I will have more questions upon assembly.

Thanks again everyone for your help and input.


Gary

Ya, all normal. I was wondering what you were concerned about until you annotated the pic. All good, carry on.

Thanks Dr.

Anytime, brother. I’m always available through messaging here, my website, FaceBook when anyone has questions

Thanks Doctor.

I have been following the DVD, would be lost without it and yet I still have quetions.

The main shaft bearing, as per video pinion shaft looks fine.
How can I tell If this bearing needs replacing?

Any tips are much appreciated while I got it all open.

Thanks,

Gary

Which one? Input and pinion both have two, a ball bearing one in the int plate and roller ones in the case. Roller ones are simple, if they look ok and trans wasn’t making noise then you can leave them. Ball ones are different and I spent a lot of time going over how to examine them. I will say that in the 12yrs the dvd has been out that some practices have change, from a retail mechanic point of view. Main one is that I change all of those bearings now and don’t trust or put my reputation behind used or old bearings. As a home mechanic, you get to make that choice for yourself.

Hi Doc,

I am glad I asked this question based on your response.

I am adding a few pictures so you are not shooting in the dark.

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I did not remove the one shaft based on Your recommendation in the video and it does pass the visual and function test discussed on the dvd.

Thanks again for your advice.

Gary

Sorry for being such a ninny but I don’t want to have to jump back into the transmission again.
I bought a new set of brake bands for my transmission rebuild, however they are shorter than the ones that are in there now. My mind says that because these have been flattened over years of use however I want to check with the brain trust ti make sure I didn’t get the wrong stuff. Appreciate all input and experience.

Attached are a couple pics for perspective.Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

I, unfortunately, cannot tell anything based on your bearing pic. Per the DVD, you have to inspect the races to get the best idea of bearing condition if the bearing is not otherwise obviously damaged. Pics of this is hard.

What do your base blocks look like? Short or long? Per the DVD, there are two types of bands that work with the two different types of blocks. Short bands go with long blocks, long bands with short blocks. The long bands and short blocks were standard up to the change to side shifter in 73. Do not mix and match bands or you will get a transmission that will not go into gear, or stay in gear. Generally, also stated in the DVD, I don’t replace the bands or blocks unless they need it.

As a slightly off topic item, The host of the DVD, Meghan, was married last year and is expecting a baby now! Congrats to her!

And, although her fame grew immensely with her appearance on the DVD, I really had nothing to do with any of it

Seriously, tho, that’s some great news

Shorter in which dimension?

Two steps forward one step back.

I figured I would just change out all the bands while I was in there as 1st and 2nd are quite shiny.
Unfortunately what I got , and thank you for the explanation are the short bands.

That’s what I thought but wasn’t sure if over time the bands bow gets flattened and therefore are elongated.

Thank you for the reminder of the two different sizes.
I had ordered the bands for a 73 914 and received the shorties.

I was considering, again dvd knowledge, was to move bands from 4 & 5 and swap with 1 & 2.
I am aware that 1st gear has only 1 band.

Well now it’s time to return the shorties.

Thanks for the input and until next time, thanks for all the input and help.

Gary

Hate to say it Doctor but she stole the show

The DVD is phenomenal. You have to pay attention to all the details. There are a lot.
Pause and replay is your friend.

Couldn’t have pulled it off by a long shot without the guidance and support.

Old shift shaft used to make the “evil trident”.

Worked like a charm!



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