Another Winter project in the works is changing out the wheel studs to bullet nose studs and adding some spacers to the front to push the wheels out a couple mm.

Question How hard is it to remove the rear studs? I have a 5 bolt conversion to rear hubs. Would rather not pull the hubs apart and possibly damage the bearing.

I know I'll have to remove the rear caliper and the rotor dust cover. Can I just take a hammer and tap each out ? is there space to do this?

could probably pull the new ones in with a spacer and a nut on the studs.

It would be nice if there was some kind of puller I could use to press them out.

The fronts shouldn't be a problem, as I have a 911 front end and the studs are in the aluminum hub.

another question

Will I need "Hub Centric" spacers on the front? I am running 5 bolt Fuchs and I don't think they are hub centric. Or are they?

Only going out about 7mm in front for spacers

Removing studs is pretty simple.

If they are press in:
A small hand press would be best to pop them out. I have also used a mallet + 2x4 to pop them out before. Kind of shade tree, and can risk a few things. But it works.

If they are threaded.. (my 5 bolt conversion is)

Thread a nut half half way down the stud, then thread another nut after. Tighten them against eachother. Remove by turning the inside nut CCW.
If it wont budge, torch it at the base.


Edit: someone can correct me on this. IIRC: fuchs are not hubcentric. Porsches unique ball seat nuts help center the wheel.
So a flat spacer is OK.

later 911 f & r hubs are hubcentric.

Front suspension was from either a '76 or '78 Don't remember which. A calipers.

i see there is a lip on the front hub of about 8mm. does that make them "Hub Centric"?

Old pic

Click to view attachment

@Olympic 914
on the rear studs:
If the studs are 45 or 50mm in length you can remove them with the hub installed. I use a steel open end lug bolt installed with the top flush with the end of the stud. I place one hammer against the nut and strike it with another 3 lb hammer. 2-3 hits and they are loose.
When installing the new studs get one 5/8" washer and two 14mm hardened washers. You need the (1) 5/8" washer on first to clear the splines of the stud with are larger in diameter than the threads, (2) hardened 14mm washers, and a 14 x 1.5 flange nut.
Grease both sides of the washers and the bottom of the flange nut. Na alternative to the14mm washers is a pair of the keyed washers used on the front struts spindles. Either the 914 or 911 will work. the 911 have a larger hole. I use a 4 way lug wrench to spin the nut. It takes considerable force to pull them in. This method reduces the force required and the possibility of pulling the threads on the stud.

To prevent the axle from turning as you pull in the studs I use a piece of chain. Elongate the end link so it will slide over a stud. Wrap the chain around the trailing arm and use a through bolt to connect the other end of the chain to itself. Rotates it to take out all of the slack. An old bicycle inner tube slid over the chain will protect the trailing arm from sratches.

You need to remove the hub from the rotor on the front hubs to change them as there is not enough clearance. Knock the studs loose before removing the hub. Use an impact to loosen the 8mm nuts that hold the rotor to the hub. It usually works with no back up wrench. Draw them in with the same method described above.

I can lend you the installation parts for the cost of shipping.

Bruce

Yes the front hubs you have are hub centric

@Olympic 914

Be aware when hammering the studs that you are also hammering your wheel bearings, be cautious!

Yea. That's not an option in my mind unless you are replacing bearings and then you might as well do everything on a press.

I made this tool for that purpose
My Stud Remover

Worked on this job today.

Saw a guy on youtube use this HF tool to remove the studs, looked like it would do the job. So I got one to try.

Worked perfectly.

You just flip it around to install the studs.

Little trick was to give the tool a couple light taps with a hammer after putting the pressure on. it really helped to get the studs moving. both coming out and going back in.

Also put a dab of oil on the threads of the tool and the end of the tool's bolt.

I did have to open the forked section a little with a grinder to fit over the end of the studs.

Since we all like pictures.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment