Hello Teeners! Just took delivery this week of a 74 Bumblebee that I had been hunting. It's had extensive work done in the past, was driven a lot in it's younger years but very little in the last 15. My to-do list is growing but the top two items are going to happen soon. The brakes failed asI pulled out of my shop for an around the block run. The PPI had found that all the calipers were leaking and pads were worn. My thinking is that having the car in a 12 degree transport trailer for a few days was the death knell.
My plan is to keep it as close to stock as possible, so PMB calipers and coated rotors all around. New master cylinder (19MM ?) and brake switch, pressure regulator, and pads.
My questions for the experienced: what else will I need? the rubber lines look OK and do not appear to be original. Do I need sealing washers for the master? wheel bearings and seals for the rear? What type of pads do people use? Doubtful that I'll track it. Rather take my Boxster.
I have the car on my two post lift with the wheels off but just read that I might need to get into the pedal box area for the master cylinder.
I have a cryo cleaner coming in to clean the undersides and was planning on having all of the brake hardware off for that, which means I won't easily Click to view attachmenthave a roller to get to the master from inside.
Lots of questions and look forward to any and all input.
Thanks all!Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

New rubber soft lines. They are cheap and swell shut so hard to tell when they are bad.
MC is under the protective plate, under the car. Easy to access on the lift. PMB will have the copper washers for the MC.

Congrats on the purchase and

Mark ( @mepstein ) beat me to it. Definitely replace the rubber hard lines. The only other thing might be, since you are doing all 4 calipers, is to have the proportioning valve done at the same time. I replaced all of my brake lines with Eric's green lines. If Eric recommended it for brakes, we did it.

Nice looking BB! VIN check please... for the 914 LE Registry.

Replace the rear bearing if needed. The seals are part of the bearing on the rear. See it you have excess play in the rear wheels by pulling and pushing on the top o the wheel. check the fronts too. The fronts an be adjusted.
Nice find.

@Robkammer congratulations!

You can watch Ian’s several youtube video of one of the member here with Bumble Bee project for you to learn

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLmCYkBdj...SkxYLbbv0WGcQXQ

And read a good build threads: some build threads below but there’s several

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=341193&hl=


http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=244443

VERY COOL, looks like you bought it in running condition, curious as to what it sold for, hehe. I just happen to have one on my computer screen now. Click to view attachment

Congrats—the LEs only keep getting cooler.

+1 on PMB to get the brakes sorted.

I recognize that particular LE from my corner of the country. Nice find! I have Bee VIN 474214854. Please see Jeff's earlier post do get yours onto the LE Registry.

Thanks for the response everyone. Yes, the car was in Washington. The seller is a very nice gentleman for sure. I believe that I've added the car to the VIN registry. But being older than the car I sometimes lose track of the digital stuff.
I'll replace the rubber lines as I know I should, I was hoping everyone would say not to, even though I know better. The rears looks like a pain to get to.
Is anyone on the braided steel brake line train? I prefer to keep it as close to OE but would change if there is an appreciable difference in steel.
Rob

Hi Rob,

I maintain the LE Registry...and am the only one able to add your VIN to it - editing it is not publicly available online for integrity of information purposes. You must be thinking of the VIN registry here on 914world. The link to the Registry in my signature block below. If you will PM me thru this site we can connect and I can get your car onto the Registry.

Thanks for the response everyone. Yes, the car was in Washington. The seller is a very nice gentleman for sure. I believe that I've added the car to the VIN registry. But being older than the car I sometimes lose track of the digital stuff.
I'll replace the rubber lines as I know I should, I was hoping everyone would say not to, even though I know better. The rears looks like a pain to get to.
Is anyone on the braided steel brake line train? I prefer to keep it as close to OE but would change if there is an appreciable difference in steel.
Rob

I am a big "no" on the steel braided lines. I like the rubber as they are original and you can actually see the condition of the rubber. I see steel beaded for cars that are on the track and having brakes unbuilt regularly, etc. Or the Honda Civic crowd.....

Master cyl. replacement does not require access from interior .
Rear hose replacement is easy. Snip hose off right at chassis fitting.
Position tubing wrench on chassis hard line fitting so that it leans on chassis or
against a suitable block. Use a deep 14mm socket with 10" extension to rotate snipped soft
line off hard line. Use screw driver and small vise grip to lever clip off chassis fitting bracket.

I've done soft lines on two cars recently with the engine in the car. It can be a challenge but is doable. The description above worked for me. I was certainly glad I did mine. The rears on my 1970 that had sat for a long time were swelled shut but looked fine from the exterior.

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Great info guys! Thanks for the help. Going to drain it and start disassembly this week. Good winter project. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions and maybe a few pics.

Well...if you're just looking for stuff to work on to bringing it closer to stock, you've probably noticed that your Mahles are solid yellow, and I THINK all BEES had silver on the edges of the rims....I guess what would be called the "machined lip" look by modern day standards. That said, your car looks great.....I don't know that I'd mess with the wheels. Nice Score....wish I would have gotten the one I had to the condition yours is in!

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Yes, I agree that it would be nice to have the rims be correct. This is on my list, but way at the bottom. I took one of the wheels to our local wheel guys. They may be able to just grind the rim but it may not work well. Most likely they will need to strip the wheels and re powder coat. Way low on my list at this point.
Rob

Roger on the rubber lines. Had time to start on this today but hit a couple of roadblocks. The easy one is the master supply lines, I think if I lift the reservoir that will solve the problem.
The bigger issue id the pressure regulator. I have to believe it was installed before the engine assembly was in place. I've tried every wrench in the box and no go. Do I need to cut and weld something special to get to the upper mounting bolt? All of the hard line fitting have broken free with no issues. That's a win to me! Haynes makes it sound so easy.

Dropping the engine doesn't take long and will let you get to a lot of things that you might want to r & r.