Umm, I admit this cracks me up too, so I know I'm putting myself out there with this one.. Also, I realize nobody will necessarily know the answer either.. but maybe some one can provide some measurements on the 914-6 headers. Anyway I was just thinking, would it be possible to weld a set of 914-6 headers (mounting points) onto an exhaust flange for a Subaru 6? I mean I don't have these items handy to shoot the idea down myself. I know the exhaust ports for the Subaru are not evenly spaced (it's more like 2 cylinders separated from the other, per bank) but then again the mounting flanges of the 914-6 headers are completely separated from each other and my thinking is that two of the runners could possibly be cinched and pulled together enough to get a weld done (onto a Subaru exhaust flange).

Subaru Exhaust Holes are spaced :
- from 1st to 3rd holes [on center] is about 6-3/4" to 6-7/8" is that anywhere close to the 914-6 header spacing?
- 1st hole to middle hole on center is about 2-5/8"
- middle hole to 3rd hole on center is about 4-3/16"
Crazy Talk? Thoughts? Thanks.


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Why. What do you think that would accomplish. 914-6 exhaust are terribly overpriced and any attempt to modify them would only raise their cost not to mention piss off the purists. I can't imagine how difficult it would be to do so anyway. I can say this because I'm currently building an SS exhaust system for a Subaru 6 in a 914. Very little room to work, weld and cram rigid materials in an area too small to even Fart in.

Because, I have access to a used set of stainless 914-6 headers for a really good price potentially, that would includes NO shipping ... AND also, I thought the P6 headers would be an obvious choice for reasons such as: considering the firing orders being the same between the P6 and Subaru - proper tube lengths, correct bends, and the fact that it would probably be a whole lot less work than re-inventing the wheel and starting from scratch, etc. Not really seeing the down side.
BTW - my engine is not installed so it may not be as difficult and cramped to work on.


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It depends which Subaru 6 you're talking about. The EZ series heads cram all 3 ports into one...take a look at Kent's exhaust build. The EG33 has individual ports but I'm not sure the correct primary pipe diameter is in the Porsche headers.

Oh yea, I do remember now about the EZ's combined ports.. no, I'm in fact dealing with an EG33 or at least trying to - should have mentioned that. The EG's primaries are 1-1/2" ID .. the headers I'm considering are 1.6" according to the guy that's got 'em. (strange number, maybe he measured OD, I'll check again later if it's worth moving forward).


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When I had my Subaru powered 914. I also had a 30R engine I never installed.
Looked at these Boxster headers . You would need to change flanges and then rework some of the tubes. Looks like there is alot bends and pipe for the low price.

The bore center spacing on the air cooled 911 motors is 118mm. Since the ports are in the center of the head that should be the distance between ports as well. The later water cooled 6 cylinder engines continued to use this bore spacing as well.

john

Would they actually fit around the engine and mounts? How about the flange spacing and bolt lineup? You'd have some fabrication to do but it may work unless you run into some serious roadblocks. I'm using the header setup that I bought from Outfront Motorsports because they're specifically designed for the EG33 so I've minimized my fabrication...something I have not done with the rest of my build.

Hmm, so according to targa77e's measurement (thanks man) the two outside runners for the P6 is about 9-1/4" apart (on center). The EG33 is about 6-3/4". So after the P6 flanges are cut off (would they even necessarily need to be? maybe weld them directly to the EG33 ex/flange?) they'd need to be pulled inward about 2-1/2" in order to tack them on to the EG33 ex/flange (or, just 1-1/4" inward each outside runner). I'd assume these runners could be pulled in and manipulated with some kind of strap or clamp, 'til tacked. But I admit, it may be easier said than done. If the outside runners are possible the center is too.


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Is your engine actually in the car? If so, play with your flanges and clearances and see what changes you have to make. And good score on the free headers!

Nah, I guess this is just a hypothetical exercise at this point, I'm still in the planning stage - my EG33's not in the car yet (I have to locate a cam pulley first) and the headers are not free but I can get them cheap if I take a short road trip.


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Pickup the flanges from SmallCar, they are mild steel. Or draw them up in and have them Laser Cut the flanges in SS many places will do it.

Tubes are easy enough, I hate cutting up old headers to make a new setup, it is all compromise. But that is what you need to do go for it.

It will be a compromise unless built for th engine and even then when I calculated the primary lengths it would take a ton of bends to get the length correct. 914 does not have a lot of length to do it in when you get right down to it. Very easy to do in an SVX, plenty of length there.

Heres some links to power.

Small Car Flanges

Header Kit

Outfront Motorsports also used to make a set of headers. You would have to contact them not listed on their site.

Stay away from the Vangon conversion ones, they where know to be cheap and cracked almost instantly from the reviews.