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Full Version: Door sill plate brazing / boxed door post reinforcement
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seanpaulmc
Hello -

This is a two-parter while I work on the passenger long repair.

First, I've been trying to be careful and remove the door sill in one piece but am now wondering if this needs to be a sacrificial piece. The door sill plate is in really good condition but needs to come out to access the long for inspection / repair.

1. Can the sill panel be removed without destroying it?
2. Is there a preferred way to remove the brazing at the ends of the sill plate?

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This next photo is underneath the sill looking up. The black is the chipped away seam sealer which was pretty solid. The giant, rusty crater to the side is what remains of the boxed reinforcement section underneath the door post which is all but gone.

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Does anyone know a good thread showing the rebuild of this boxed support section under the door? This one is completely trashed inside so I do not have a good template to follow for recreation. I understand there are several layers. Here are some more photos.

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Is anyone making these parts for the door support?

Thanks in advance!
Sean
cary
https://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/PP346ECL

I think they have the right side too ..............
cary
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Here is the best shot I could come up with. The bottom half had yet to be recreated.
cary
The circled in yellow is the middle layer in the above picture.
Very important to the overall strength of the car.

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The brazing you'll need an oxy/act torch. Get it hot enough that it starts the sparkle.
Then brush off the excess brazing with a brass brush. Then heat it up and pull it apart.

seanpaulmc
Thanks @cary

These pictures are very helpful!

Also, what are you using for cutting spot welds? I see the spot weld cutter marks in your photo. I've been using the 3/8" Blair cutters but they don't seem to last very long.

Thanks,
Sean
930cabman
QUOTE(seanpaulmc @ Mar 5 2021, 09:29 AM) *

Thanks @cary

These pictures are very helpful!

Also, what are you using for cutting spot welds? I see the spot weld cutter marks in your photo. I've been using the 3/8" Blair cutters but they don't seem to last very long.

Thanks,
Sean


Blair is the tool for cutting spot welds. I drill a 1/8" hole first (instead of center punch) and keep the drill speed slow. You will get the feel after a bunch
cary
I use 1/4, 5/16 & 3/8 Blair/Hougen spot weld cutters too.

Like @930cabman said. You have to DRILL a 1/8 pilot hole for the plunger/guide to sit in. Doesn't need to go all the way thru both pieces. Then its very crucial you kept it perfectly flat against the surface.
If not, you'll blow the teeth off. Like you're doing.

If you run into after lunch spot welds, be very very careful. Side by side. The cutter doesn't like catching that lower lip of the other spot weld. Again, off comes a tooth.

I also use Hougen cutting paste if I'm doing a lot of spot welds at one time.
Once you get the hang of it. It will get better.
Sometimes I can go a whole day without wearing one out with constant use.
mgphoto
I used this by Blair, I broke maybe 2 of 10mm, I tried the 8mm broke all the time, I think the 914 sheet metal is softer than the boren steel newer cars are made of.
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With this wax lube
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Works like a charm.
mbseto
I had one door sill where I was able to carefully cut the brazing. The other side was covered in it, I think the PO went nuts with a torch. Sacrificed the sill on that side, made a new one.
seanpaulmc
Just an update and to let you all know I appreciate the replies.

The door sill is out.

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I tried for much longer than I'd like to admit to get the sill out in one piece but the brazing beat me. I had to cut it out and leave the brazed in corners. The MAPP torch just didn't get it hot enough, but it sure did burn the stink out of the old seam sealer.

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I've realized that I should have sacrificed this piece from the beginning instead of spending so much effort in trying to save and reuse it. It's a $52 piece from RD. On the bright some there were some lessons learned in the effort spent and the piece could likely be reused.

So, the real question comes down to how bad is it inside the longitudinal?
I really hate the thought of cutting into the body panels to get into that long.

Advise from those that have been down this road?

Thanks,
Sean

SirAndy
QUOTE(seanpaulmc @ Mar 6 2021, 01:18 PM) *
So, the real question comes down to how bad is it inside the longitudinal?
I really hate the thought of cutting into the body panels to get into that long.
Advise from those that have been down this road?

General rule for this sort of repair:
The rust you see is about 10% of what is there

So there will be more. Lots more.
sawzall-smiley.gif smash.gif welder.gif
mgphoto
Don’t let others get you down hearted, I was where you are at, it’s just rust, I laugh at it now. Eventually you will want to cut the fenders to get better access. The more you do the more you will learn, and with that the more satisfaction you will have.
mbseto
QUOTE(mgphoto @ Mar 8 2021, 12:33 PM) *

Don’t let others get you down hearted, I was where you are at, it’s just rust, I laugh at it now. Eventually you will want to cut the fenders to get better access. The more you do the more you will learn, and with that the more satisfaction you will have.


Quoted for truth.
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