I've got a '74 2.0 engine with d-jet that is running lean. Biggest indications are whitish plugs and high oil temps - about 240-250 after highway cruising in 90-95 degree weather (very little humidity). While moving oil is about 230-235, but when stopped or considerably slowed, temps rise to about 245-250. Cyl head temps will stay a consistent 300-325.

I have switched out 3 good MPSs. 2 049s and an 037. I cannot seem to find an 043, but thought that at least with the 037 I would see some difference in running condition. I have also switched out 2 TS2 sensors with no difference in plug color or oil temps. I plan on trying to retard my timing some, check fuel pressure and replace filter tonight. Possibly bump pressure up to 32-34 psi.

Short of dyno'ing the car (which I cannot afford to do at the moment) does anyone have any suggestions for richening up the mixture?

I am considering a pot on the TS2 sensor. But that would only be if nothing else works.

Additionally, I do not seem to have a sock strainer in my tank. Where should this strainer be and is it possible to simply drop one in? Just noticed this late last night.

TIA

same problem my engine had. the timsert fused itself to the spark plug and melted the electrode to plug #1....ran lean and real hot until D-Day came........

hope you get it figured out man.

has it always done this? if not, what happened right before it started?
what plugs are you running? they could be too hot if they're not the spec plugs.
and your sure there are no obstructions to your oil cooler and that your flappers are working ?

you have hugely hot oil temps but normal-cold CHT's. something is wrong with this picture...
have you calibrated your oil temps with a deep-fry thermometer or an IR pyrometer?

tank picture:

cr&p - you can't edit-in an attachment after you forget...

I suspect that the car has been running lean for some time now. When I purchased it last year it would not pass emissions - PO had his mechanic re-time and adjust MPS. Leaned out car to pass.

I tuned the car about 9 mos ago with new Bosch plugs - standard for the engine (W7CC IIRC). I still have the old plugs and will check them when I get home, but I believ that they looked similar. They were not a nice tan color though, definitely lighter.

I changed the oil temp sender and gauge module with one from a 911. Purchsed a matched set from Automotion. I have not yet tested the gauge and sender, but it has been suggested. Shortly thereafter I installed a CHT gauge, so it hasn't been but a few months that I have been able to accurately monitor the engine and it has not been hot enough until recently to notice the problem.

All tin and flaps are in place and cooler *appears* clean but I plan on checking behind it once I get the car up on stands to do the filter.

QUOTE (BMartin914 @ Jul 19 2005, 01:12 PM)

... PO had his mechanic re-time and adjust MPS. Leaned out car to pass.

i know you said you swapped in several MPS's but a statement like "adjusted the MPS" always scares the sh!t outta me. i know the kind of equipment and experience you have to have to do that right...

i do think you'd be well-served to get some better AFR measuring instrumentation, but i understand the difficulty. it *is* possible that you are running so far lean of peak that the CHT is cold again...

getting a pressure gauge on the fuel rail is an excellent idea.

good luck; i know what it's like to be in the wilderness with few knowledgeable resources to lean on...

Ben

I have a 037 MPS on my 2.0. The end was drilled by previous owner. I adjusted the internal screw all the way out as far as it will go. I then installed a 270ohm resistor between the TS and the wire running to the computer. It runs good but not perfect.

Really need the 043 MPS

I once added a 1,000 Ohm resistor because I didn't know what I was doing and the car ran fantastic until.... I stopped and tried to restart it when it was still warm. It wouldn't start because the resistance was too high. I would have to take it out to start the car.

Adding the resistor at the TS is something I picked up from Brad Anders site. Under Ballast Resistor. Here is part of it. He goes into other detail about how resistance effects fuel mixture.

Notes: Used only on the 1973 2.0L engines in the combination of components described above in the cylinder head temperature section. It is used to bias the resistance of the 0 280 130 017 cylinder head temperature sensor. Since the ...017 sensor has a cold resistance value of about 1300 ohms, and a warm value of less than 100 ohms, use of the ballast resistor increases the value the ECU sees at both extremes by 270 ohms. If this resistor is missing from a 1973 setup, the mixture will be too lean across the whole temperature range. Use of this resistor in a 1974 setup will result in a rich mixture when the engine is warm. Make sure that if you have a 1973 setup as described above, that this resistor is present, and if you have a 1974 setup, that it isn't installed.

Ron,

Does the cramsicle run lean? Did someone change your FI components around?

I was thinking about making some temporary resistors with spade connectors on the end that I could put in-line between the harness and the TS2 and see what happens with different resistances. I am also considering a pot that I could adjust.

I currently have an 017 TS2 (which is wrong for the engine and ecu), but have switched it out with a 012 TS2 from Brant but i still didn't notice a difference.

I have a so-so 049 that I may try to adjust. It leaks down so it is not really any good.

Haven't exhausted all of my options. Still have a ways to go.

Ben, there are two other options you might consider:

VERIFY that the MPS you have are calibrated and function correctly. Geoff Bleyseng and I both have the equipment to do this inexpensively.

Unplug the TS1 sender...just unplug the harness. Brad A says this will richen the mix by ~10%.

Ben, my '76 has almost the same problem; have a good rebuilt 043 (I think - got it from AA, and MY 043 MPS that was rebuilt a Bret dies after 300 miles) MPS. Oil temp gets near red mark on gauge when going uphill, i.e. temps fine from Colorado Springs to Denver (1000 ft. down hill), but returning to C Springs oil temp soars.

It does seem to return to better temps fairly quickly once on level ground, and it takes 30 minutes plus to reach the real high temps, so I don't believe its fan/tin related.

Went to Cripple Creek last Saturday, oil temp almost hit red mark, but returning to C Springs ran in middle of gauge.

I am running NGK BP7ES plugs, Royal Purple oil, new CHT etc.

I just bought a '69 911 oil temp/pres gauge, need sender and I too will have a more accurate reading.

Jeff, I have actually been in contact with both you and Geoff, but late last week I found that the MPS I was going to send out was bad. I am now in the process of finding another one that is good (not too easy to find good 043 MPSs I am learning).

I have borrowed a near perfect 037 that has never been opened or adjusted so it is the best I have but does not match my other components. I also have borrowed an 049 but it has been adjusted so I do not know where it stands and seeing as how both are borrowed, I can't very well send them out for adjustment/calibration.

Will try the TS1 unplug later today. Thanks.

What are cooler plugs than the Bosch W7CC?

Yes Ben it does run lean and yes someone did change out the MPS at some point.

They also had the fuel lines hooked up wrong on the fuel pump.

Which I suspect is why it ended up in a repair yard lot for 16 years. I bet the original MPS was just fine. But is now long gone.

I'm actually anxiously waiting for a call from someone who may have what were looking for. I'll let you know how it turns out.

QUOTE (BMartin914 @ Jul 19 2005, 03:22 PM)

What are cooler plugs than the Bosch W7CC?

6's
( Bosch - smaller number == colder ;
  NGK - bigger number == colder )

Where do you find W6CC plugs. I can't find them listed anywhere.

found them listed here but that's not the same as actual parts. the good news is that equivalent NGK's seem to be available even if the Bosch aren't...

Ben: I like NGKs and I get mine from Pep Boys, but your local motor cycle parts place prolly has NGKs in the 10 heat range. Its under $10 for a set. When I started my D-Jet engine it was way lean and I put 9s in. So the first thing that I tried was to change the heat range of the plug. Does it ping or knock when shut down, what about timing? If you have to tune the MPS, Geoff gave me the best insight.
:PERMAGRIN: Joe

My 914 cruises lean for no obvious reason. It will run AFR 16:1 if I just sit on the freeway with my foot barely on the pedal. As soon as I step on it, the mixture drops below 13:1. I have checked and rechecked every component, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe the car was rebuilt with a non stock cam or something like that.

I had oil temp problems too, and two things that helped a lot were adding the cooling flaps under the car and switchin to a lighter weight oil, like 10W-40 (instead of 20W-50) to keep it from bypassing the cooler (I speculate).

Anyway, what I am getting at is... is there any chance you have a nonstock rebuild in there?

My solution is that eventually I am going to replace the FI with megasquirt. Then we'll see what happens. I haven't burned any holes in any pistons yet so I am not too worried about it until then.

Thanks everybody for your help!

I did a lot tonight but am still not done. Fuel filter was full of little bits of clay (can't be good) so I swapped it out and made sure all hoses had slack and there was no kinking. Raised the fuel pressure from 28 to 32. Replaced W7CC Bosch plugs for NGK 7s (did not know they made such a cold plug as 9s and 10s). If they don't help may try to go colder. I disconnected the TS1 and went for a drive, but the plugs just looked new so they need some more time.

I am going to try to time it day after tomorrow and see if that may help. Pulled out the old plugs (from the tune-up 6 mos ago) and they looked good (if not a little rich) so I know that this can be solved.

Jeff: I read quite a few of your threads on the bird board regarding your problem and they have definitely been a good point of reference. My flaps are in tact and I am also considering removing my rear valance as was suggested by a fellow 914 owner. I switched (tonight) from Mobil 1 15W-50 to Royal Purple 15W-40.

I have a strange engine which is sort of a frankenstein. It is essentially a 78 bus CASE with 2.0 914 3-bolt heads. Engine has factory machined hydraulic lifters, but the internals are a mystery to both myself and PO. I doubt that the motor has been enlarged at all, but again - no one knows for sure. Anything is possible.

I am assuming that I can cure this with a little of this and a little of that. My next option - far off in the distant future would be carbs - if this could not be fixed, but I really do not think that that is the case.

Your head temps are ok, but your oil temps are high. Is the oil cooler clear of debris and build up?

Added a 330 ohm resistor between the TS2 sensor and the harness and retarded my timing a few degrees. Drove today for a bout 15 miles in 80+ degree heat. Oil barely got above 210. Heads never got above 300. Looks pretty good.

Plugs are a little black around the edges, so it may need to be leaned out a bit, but it still looks and feels pretty good.

Glad to hear it's coming together.

I am running a 270ohm resistor in there right now and I think that is as good as it's going to get until I can get enough money together to buy the right MPS for the computer.

Ron



Ron