Hi all,

I should have taken more detailed pictures of my engine and tins upon disassembly. I did, not but enough of them and of course the pictures I don't have of certain tins are exactly the ones I am not sure where and in what order they go.

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I also just opened a set of heat exchangers I purchased over 6 months ago. Kinda tells you the rocket fast pace I am moving. I think I have spent more time in front of the motor and transmission with friends talking shop and drinking beers.

I noticed a tiny hole and a couple of little cracks on the edges of one of the exchangers. Is this cosmetic or something that needs attention?

And of course the Tins, do they go on before or after the exchangers? I have found a spot for most of the other tins, and these are the last two. Please don't tell me I have to remove everything to get them on... ha.

As always, much appreciated for any feedback and guidance.

Pictures attached.



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Pinholes or cracks in the outer shells of the exchangers are fine and will only result in losing a bit of heat. The ones in your photo are minuscule and you won't notice and difference in the cabin when the flappers are open.
If the exhaust pipes within are cracked, throw them out. The only way to test them is to do a pressure test to find out if they leak.

The tin you've circled in the diagram fastens to the underside of the exchangers and are installed after the exchangers are installed.

Thank you Robert.

Your neck resembles mine.

How did you get your bionic neck? Mine was from a bodysurfing accident resulting in a C6-C7 fracture. According to the doc, I came within less than a mm of potentially being paralyzed. Good times.

Oh man,

So glad we both got lucky.

I got rear ended hard by a truck which took off after it hit me.

C6/c7 fused in 2001
C5/c6 quit in 2017. Artificial disc implanted on that one.

Fingers crossed no more.

Speaking of close calls on a much lighter note my ssi install averted a catastrophe by going light on the torque and checking the copper washers positioning.
Had to take the right side heat exchanger off.


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And there you have a washer that wasn’t on correctly. Luck would have it I was able to pull it out without damaging the head. Sorry for the blurry pic.
Double checked ssi level and put in a new copper washer (I used Vaseline to make it stick) and guided the ssi back into place and torqued everything down.
Left the torque at 12ft lbs. everything looks good now.

Getting closer to getting this done.

Nice catch on the copper gasket.

Sorry to hear about the accident. How is life post artificial disk? What model did you get? How do the get that thing installed from the front in that location?!
I came close to getting a disc replacement for a lower back disc as part of a clinical trial but chickened out.

Kinda sad, I can't remember. I believe it was the pro-disc.
It has worked wonderful.
Fingers crossed.

Here's a couple of pics of my progress on the engine.

Now I am wrestling with whether I should relocate my fuel pump, as my old 3 port died and I ordered a newer two port bosch model.

I already had purchased and installed the tangerine stainless fuel line kit for the original location.

Not sure exactly what I would need to change or additional purchase in order to locate it it up front. I don't want to put it in the fuel tank or the fuel tank compartment. However I do like how some have located it in front and protected by the undercarriage cover plate. (sorry I don't know the technical name of it.)

Any detailed advice on what I would need based on my existing set up to make that happen would be appreciated otherwise I will probably just put it on the rear firewall as I have seen on many posts.

Thanks again,

Gary

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p.s note the Dr. Evil DVD in the background.
Also the Jake Raby type4 engine build has been indispensable.
Rich from 914werke!

So nice and clean! Looking good!

YES! Relocate it. so much less to worry about when its up by the tank. Under the belly pan by the steering rack was the factory suggested relocation/fix . Two of my cars have it in that location, the 3rd I relocated using the 75+ pump blister. Pros and cons to either location but both are far superior to having it at the back of the car. My 4th 914 still has it in the engine bay and will inevitably vapor lock the pump any time I try going over a high pass on a hot day.

What you will need to make the conversion depends on what fuel pump you are using, but assuming your pump output is 8mm(5/16) and you have the larger 9.5 MM (3/8") supply line in the tunnel you will most likely need a 8mm to 9.5mm adaptor after the pump to reach the supply line and then another to go 9.5mm back down to 8mm between the supply line and the engine bay line.

Tangerine sells these adaptors in various shapes.
http://www.tangerineracing.com/stainlessfuellines.htm

Alternatively you could simplify things by just replacing the supply line with an 8mm one.

You will also need about ~10-15 feet of wire to power it depending on which way you go

What year is this diagram for? 75?

Parts 32 and 33?

The DR side WAG in the illustration is for a tailshift. SS the rear rod runs below the curve. Pass side is common for TS and SS.