I’ve wrestled with this a lot longer than I expected, and we’re stumped.

New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, coil, condenser, and fuel. No joy.

I’ve got good compression. Nothing clunking or clanking anywhere. We just can’t get it to start. Here’s a video of as far as I can get it.

https://youtu.be/O2cNVxZ1ixA

Any ideas, guys?

Distributor off by 180*.

Happened to me twice.

Recheck that the wires go to the correct plug. I am guessing it ran before and your changes caused the problem.

New...fuel? What’s that mean?

Check the fuel pump/heater fan fuse on relay panel in engine compartment...it’s gotten me more than once.

Hear the fuel pump cycle key on?

I'm going to assume that you've done all of the standard debugging.
1. Verified good spark on all 4 plugs.
2. Verified the plugs are gapped correctly.
3. Checked for black deposits on plugs (too rich).
4. Verified the firing order.
5. Reset the timing to factory spec.
6. Verified fuel pump is working.
7. Verified fuel pressure is appropriate for the dual carbs.

Has it been sitting for a long time? (varnished gas in the carbs)
Are their black deposits on the new plugs? (too rich)
Does it run when you spray starting fluid in the carbs? (too lean)
Does it run/surge when you spray starting fluid around the intake manifold? (vacuum leak).

Having done all that... If spark and timing are good then it has to be the air/fuel mixture. Carbs too rich, carbs too lean or a vacuum leak.

If spark is bad it has to be the wires, the plugs or the coil.

I'm curious to find out what it is.

Good Luck.

Check your dwell....
Make sure it is correct. I had to get mine just right before I could get my car running right.

Looking at the video, you've got fuel and spark as the engine is trying to start backwards by firing up through the carbs. JK.

Check the orientation of the plug wires and distributor as previously mentioned.

Timing, valves way out of adjustment, or cracked ignition switch.
Matt (carbs not spraying correct?)

Hahaha, timing.

Ok, Got up early and went over to the garage to try everyone's suggestions.

I'd checked TDC, by rotating the motor until Cyl #1 was at the top. My fan had 3 different marks for TDC on it, so it was a moving target. I ended up trying all three, and #3 was the charm. Not sure what happened there, but rotating the wires 180-deg ended up doing the trick.

I've got some carb adjustments to make now, but at least she's up and running.

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys. Really appreciate the assist.

This happened to me as well in the past. How does/can this happen?

The engine makes two revolutions for every one revolution of the rotor, so the mark on the flywheel or the fan can either indicate TDC of #1 or #3, depending where the engine is in the stroke. So someone installing the distributor has a 50-50 chance of getting it right without checking

pancake engines

Nice. Congrats.

I had a problem last week with starting. Auto Atlanta sells a guide for $11 - 914 Non-starting procedure. I got mine running at step 2. Great book to have.