Any tips on locating the mounting points accurately and actually securely put in the tank in place?

I did open up the holes for the neck and oil filter console already.

Thanks!

From memory, I think the bosses are there to to guide drilling for the mount holes...? Can't get to the car to check right now. If you're using a factory tank, you can double check the distance between the studs, for an aftermarket one, best to double check before drilling

- Tony

The holes for the mounts are easy. I found that drilling, via hole saw, for the scavenge oil hose is the greater challenge. Did it perfect on my first conversion and messed up on my present car. Had to tig in some steel.

Thanks for the responses, let me check the stampings on the car again tomorrow.

These are them circled in red, correct?

Click to view attachment

Yes! Those are the mounting holes.

I open those up a little large and use the front hole 1st. Its a treat for sure as gunk from the wheel wells build up in the door jamb and make it very hard to fit things as well as the seam sealers and glue jambed in there.

The other thing you may want to consider is cutting the fender to chassis brace. I had to cut mine on my factory 6 to remove the tank. Just couldn't get the tank off with it on. Once cut and slightly pulled out on the q-panel out it came. Food for thought.

Thank you for the responses, very much appreciate it.

I'm with Luke...and I sometimes think the factory put the oil tank in before installing the 1/4 panel ....always seems like the forward stud is too long but once the tank is installed its just the right length.... I've always had to put a little outward leverage on the 1/4 panel to get it in easily.
Don't forget the outside "plastic" washers on the studs before ramming it up in there.
Good luck with your project.

Remember not to try to just shove it in. You have to roll it in counter clockwise.

Put the 90*/45* oil line on the tank before you put it in, or you'll have a tough time tightening the line.

Do you have the inner and outer nylon pieces, filter console boot & clip, and foam rubber seals?

very good tip!.

Also tape up all the connections and the holes for the console.

Excellent discussion and tips!

If you have a Brad Mauyer chassis stiffening kit on your car, you will need to notch the plate just below the oil tank to clear the oil line.

BTDT. Bought the T-Shirt.


Clay

Great topic, where are these parts available?
I have a portion of the quarter panel removed for rust repairs, so from that point access is not a question. Our new aluminum tank from Ben has been test fit, pretty straightforward. But the nylon pieces? foam rubber?

All available from Porsche and many suppliers. I have them all assembled in a kit if you need them. PM me or mark@MarkEpstein.net

I know this is not much help, but my memory says that somewhere probably on here, someone made a diagram with dimensions to hole centers and hole sizes.

It would not be that hard to make a template out of heavy paper. Use the tank, Mark all the centers and lay it over the inner fender. Use the stamped in bosses to locate the template.

And yes there is a certain way it rotates into position, with the drain line attached at a slight angle towards the center of the car IIRC.

I know there is a thread somewhere. Found this http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...+tank++template

See you were there. Just gotta do it! Takes a persistent combination of force, finesse, rotation, cursing.