I would take installing the air box 5 times, over putting this seal in. I cannot get it to conform at the top where it makes the bend.

I have tried heating the rubber in this area to get it to conform to the bend without any luck. The 914 rubber piece is reinforced in the exact location that it needs to make the bend. Not sure what to do at this point.

You can see where the original piece is bent.

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I just received a new rubber as well. Haven’t started yet but here’s some videos that they suggested me
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/753oghdf1qg4h03/...oKSQOzj_qa?dl=0

I did this about a year ago, work from the top down, fit the curve in first and don’t stretch it, eventually there should be extra that you will trim at the bottom. Take your time, tape the edges.
Your photo shows that the top corner is not installed correctly, the edge of the rubber should be perpendicular to the ground so the roof weatherstripping butts up against it.

Thank you, I have watched this several times before and after my attempts to install.

Exactly, if the piece fit up into the curved area it would pull that piece down into the proper location.

I think when I did mine I left the center part off the windshield frame, fitted the verticals first, then stretched the horizontal across. It was a tight fit. Also made sure the channels in the chrome trim of the A pillars we’re the correct width.

I did this fix very recently and found that there is a small tab or blade of metal on the body at the two channel tops that became my starting point for installation. I pushed the 914 Rubber piece onto that tab, (and there may be a screw involved on some cars) and then proceeded to manhandle the corners into their correct fit.

The middle top of the seal was dangling as were the two channel pieces at that point but the two corners were tight and felt and looked rightish.

I used a mixture of fruity soap, hand lotion, green liquid dish soap (color matters) and beer to lube the vertical channels and me and then pushed the interior side into the channel inch by inch with a well rounded 9" long plastic tool (used in the Tiffany method of stained glass/ copper foil artwork).

Then with the careful application of more and more beer, and a careful dousing of the lube recipe noted herein, i pushed the exterior side of the channel-rubber into the aluminum channel. From the factory the aluminum channel is crimped to trap the factory seal so gently pry open that part of the channel or you will not get the vertical all in.

Lastly, dont have any more beer and get out your new sharp 4" long blade and clamp it in vice grips, dip it in your lube solution and gently saw off the extra seal at the bottom AND NOTE HOW THE DOOR CLOSES TO FIND THE PERFECT ANGLE FOR THE BOTTOM CUT.

Sidebar: If you screw it up , 914 Rubber has more for sale............

Be patient & take another look at the problem.

Beer! This is what was missing. I’ll try this method before my next attempt.
Honestly though, I have done all the things that have been mentioned. I had the top started and the interior lip in all the way down and started on the exterior side and the top opens up or pushes out like in the picture.
I think I might train the part to make the bend at the top by fastening to a pipe and heating. And beer.

The rubber can only be molded when it's in it's raw form. The heat may make it slightly more pliable, but it's effect is minimal.

The key is doing the sides 1st starting at the top block.
Using liquid hand soap Get the back side in 1st by rotating it and pushing in. Slide the block onto the metal "tab". Then push the front rubber lip in by compressing it with a large flat tool You can use a large screw driver if you are careful. This will allow you to put pressure on it. Make sure the next inch or so is engaged in the back and repeat.

Also there is a small screw on the inside block of all cars (or at least there should be).

You may still have it there if you didn't unscrew as it will break away easily on old brittle seals.

Remove this screw and reuse it to install the new seal as it holds the blocks in the corners.

For the top start in the center and push on. Soapy water will help here too. Don't pull to one side or the other as you can stretch it while installing and can wind up with too much material if you push hard enough. If you do no problem as you can pull off and start again. It's just best to get it right the 1st time as there is a metal clip internally that holds it on. You will be loosening the clip if you remove and reinstall.

Hope this helps

Our Wiki page got screwed up and we are having to rebuild it now. Otherwise all this information for install would be on it and I could just point you to it.

Mark

I have had success in getting the backside interior lip into the grove using soft soap but it will not stay in at the bend even after getting the exterior lip started. Once I release pressure it simply pops out of the track at the bend. My seal has a hard piece inside that is about 2” long on the left side and smaller on the right side at the exact spot where the bend is supposed to happen. It looks like this is where the top blocks was molded to the vertical part of the seal. This is not allowing it to have flexibility to stay put.
I am sorry to be a PITA but out of this entire build this piece has so far given me the most grief. I am not a dumbass hack, this should not be this difficult.

In the picture, I have marked where the hard piece is inside the rubber. Is this normal?

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Thanks for taking the time.
John

I have never been able to put my targa top on since I put in the new seal ...

See if this helps, the seal went on easier then I had expected
zac

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=339429&hl=

This is not an easy seal to replace. The key is to do it in short sections. Once the back is seated in, push the front in. That holds it. This took me about 2 hours.

I admire your tenacity. My seals are still kosher - old, but still in one piece. I wouldn't touch what you're doing with a ten foot pole. Be patient with the challenge. Can you tell I used to be a coach?

@Mikey914 - can you please address whether the hard internal structure is normal where Morph's picture indicates it to be?


.

Mine was difficult also. I checked carefully to see if I had installed it correctly. To my mind, I had, so I used some silicon spray and that helped.

Let sleeping dogs sleep. Some things are best left alone. Perfectionism can be a curse.

The hard internal structure is the top section. No metal or internal structure there.

Ok, I guess I will need to exchange mine for one that does not have this hard piece, because it will not bend and stay in the track.
You can clearly see in the picture where the hard section starts just to the right of my thumb.

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That is rubber and part of the corner block. It's there to allow a good bond between the sections. Its not on the corner..

It does appear that a longer piece than required was used here.
I'll have to check my stock.
Mark

Thank you

After spending the whole weekend unsuccessfully trying to install an aftermarket seal, I broke down and bought the very pricy Porsche seal.

In the end it was worth it-it only took me 15 minutes to install!

^ Hopefully, it will last longer than mine has, and allow your doors to close correctly?

Maybe mine was from a bad batch, but 15 minutes sounds about right.

The internal joining block should be about 2-1/2" in I just checked my stock and it conforms.

We had to have some mass in this area to allow for a better seal when the window is closed. Making this seal we had to make many design choices and as the seal evolved over the last 12 years we have continued to improve them. We can angle the internal block some on the next run this may help.

There was a time that these were going for about $900 each. This is the main reason we made them. as we didn't charge $900 we are about $230, we have continued to make investment in this and many other seals to help keep the cost of restoring these seals down. Are they 100% identical to the NOS OEM, NO.

We have made many improvements that others have copied. A prime example is the internal clips. We use stainless or aluminum where the factory originally used plain carbon steel. Anyone remember taking off an old seal and seeing that the seal rusted from the inside out (the clip)? This is now a standard for most manufacturers.

We always stand behind our products. If you are not happy send it back. Purchase price will be refunded.

More detail on closure
This is a new seal out of the bag I fit in about 90 min

As far as lasting, I'm now going two years on a daily driver and it still looks great. I had no trouble with the doors closing correctly.

As you can see in my picture, it extends well past the 2 1/2” mark, but I will measure tomorrow to make sure. I did notice that the passenger side is more in line with your 2 1/2” mark.
I appreciate you guys and am not looking for a refund, I may have to exchange this one for another.

Thanks for all you do for our 914 ‘s,
John

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Hey Mark, thanks for all you do for our small community. I know you're not a Fortune 500 Company and haven't the means to "Hit it out of the Park" with every swing of the bat. Some say your dash has a dimple but I haven't seen it yet. I'm too damned happy with how much better it looks that the 50 yo OEM one it replaced. Same goes for your bumper tops. The little stick out at the corners was easily rectified with a small screw from inside the bumper. Even if I hadn't cleaned up the corners the new bumper top was a HUGE improvement over what I had before. Or how about the new roll bar pad that was non-existent before. I have no problem waiting until the modified latch covers are available. I'm just tickled pink that I'll have 2 new roll bar's to install in the near future. Hang tuff buddy. I think I speak for the majority and John when I say thanks.

We do appreciate your support and are striving to provide you with the best value for your dollar and keep the cost of restoring these reasonable.