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Full Version: Guidance from water cooled folks: how to plumb heater?
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tygaboy
Can any of you with H2O-powered car owners help me understand if I can plumb in/out to a heater core from a location on the rad hoses in the frunk? Not necessarily exactly where I've indicated in the pic but in general, in the hoses here in front vs running heater hose from the back of the car.

I'm planning a Mustang heater core inside the factory fresh air box and know that's been done before. (The included pic is my proof of concept fitment in a test box.)

I'm just not sure if tapping into the rad hoses at the front is a workable approach.

Anyone have experience one way or the other? Thanks in advance.
Chris914n6
My engine has dedicated heater outlets and I run hoses thru the pass heater tube.

The dedicated lines directly from the engine will be hotter and warm up sooner.
Cairo94507
I mean in theory it is all being pumped by the electric water pump, right? So I think your thought re location for the line is valid. But hey, I know nothing about water pumpers.
tygaboy
QUOTE(Chris914n6 @ Apr 26 2021, 02:07 PM) *

My engine has dedicated heater outlets and I run hoses thru the pass heater tube.

The dedicated lines directly from the engine will be hotter and warm up sooner.


@Chris914n6 - I deleted my heater tubes and plugged everything so I can no longer get inside the longs. I could run them up the side, sorta like GT oil lines.
I don't really care about how fast it gets hot as I have heated seats. I just want to be sure pulling from the front rad hoses is a viable approach.
76-914
It will work, Chris. beerchug.gif
worn
My TR6 has a valve that controls how much water travels through the heater core. The valve is controlled by a wire just like the 914 frunk release. The passenger also controls where the air is ducted, whether fresh air should be mixed in as well as controlling fan speed. All of these can be controlled without the driver looking away from the road to locate a touch screen, and are continuously variable between full on and full off. Parts are cheap on eBay, or you can buy new. That 1972 system is light years ahead of my 2013 Ford. blink.gif
FL000
I think that should work just fine. I considered tapping into the same location for mine but didn’t have the space I needed.

If you could measure the pressure differential may have a better idea on the delta, but probably assume it is good enough to press and see how it performs. I assume you will add a valve; but maybe have some space to add a booster pump if it doesn’t perform as expected.

Can’t recall what water pump you have and if it is always running should be good. If pulsed like the Davies Craig’s not sure if you will notice that in the cab.
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