Hey Teeners: After removing and reinstalling my brake pressure regulator 4 times I felt it would be nice to share what I've learned. My apologies for not being a youtube wiz.
First time removal was about 4 hours over a week while waiting for some tools I did not own.
Third time removal and fourth time install less than 20 minutes each. With the engine in the car.
So, in the attached picture you'll see what I found to be the best and only tools needed for this. The crow foot 11mm socket is critical to have to make this possible, NAPA can order you one, or a set.
To remove the regulator, in order:
Break loose the 3 brake line fittings using your flare wrench or the crow foot. Just break them loose. (my crow foot wrench was thick enough that if the 11mm fitting was more than a half turn out I could not remove the wrench because it would hit the regulator body. Same on reinstall.)
Then remove the hollow bolt with your 17mm box ratchet. That will allow you to lift the brass Tee fitting up to allow you to access the 13mm bolts that hold the regulator to the firewall.
Space is so tight in that area that I finally settled on a deep 13mm 1/4 drive socket as being the best for removal and installation of these bolts. More on that in a bit.
Since you have loosened the lines on the Tee fitting you can just hand spin them apart and inspect for damage, same for the supply line.

To install: Thread and tighten the two feed lines into the brass Tee only hand tight so that you can rotate the fitting. Then raise the new regulator into position and put the lower 13mm bolt in very loosely so that you can thread the supply line into the bottom of the regulator.
When you have that line in nicely bolt the regulator in position and tighten the two bolts. I found that a 3/8 deep socket with four 13 mm nuts in it worked great for starting the upper bolt. It's REALLY tight quarters up there. Use your 1/4 13mm deep socket to torque the bolts tight.

Now you can reattach the brass Tee fitting that has the two supply lines already installed to the regulator. The line fittings should be almost tight but still loose enough to rotate the fitting.

There are TWO one time use copper sealing washers that go with the Tee fitting, and they are different sizes. Put the top washer on the hollow bolt, place it in the Tee and then slide the lower copper washer into position. Finger tighten the hollow bolt at this point. Maybe use the wrench to get it snug. ( I used a small dentist type mirror to be sure I had the washers in place) One of my removals was due to leaking at these seals and I needed to be sure they were in. They were, and off to the restorer went the regulator for the second time..

If everything looks like it's lining up right and ready to torque, torque down the 17mm hollow bolt with your box ratchet, then the rear wheel feed lines with your 11mm crow foot on a 6" 3/8 extension, and finally the supply line on the bottom.

You should be good to go! And bleed, bleed, drive, bleed, drive, and bleed again. And maybe drive and bleed some more. I'll be on my third drive and bleed next and still don't have a solid pedal, but it's getting better!
I sure hope this helps someone. My wife and dog both had to leave my shop when I was first trying to figure out how to remove this little nugget of German engineering.

Best to all



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Nice write up.

Yup, my dog leaves too when I get mad in the garage. Funny how sensitive they are to tone of voice and frustration. Mine just decides "this idiot is way to volatile - best go somewhere else".