Can anyone point me towards some leads of people I could talk to? Location isn't important, just the most power possible
Thanks much!
Full Version: Type IV Race Motors? Who to Build?
Hello! I am looking to build a type IV race motor - 1.7 liters, in order to comply with vintage racing limitations. Application would be for road racing i na 914.
Can anyone point me towards some leads of people I could talk to? Location isn't important, just the most power possible
Thanks much!
Can anyone point me towards some leads of people I could talk to? Location isn't important, just the most power possible
Thanks much!
Jake Raby
QUOTE(mepstein @ May 13 2021, 02:05 PM) 
Jake Raby
Is he still active with race motors? This makes it seem like he's closed that product line.
http://aircooledtechnology.com/racing-engines/
A few of us just got motors built from FAT Performance in Santa Fe Springs , CA. Mine is a race oriented motor, 2258cc, 11.0 comp. I’m sure they’ll be happy to discuss a build.
https://fatperformance-rimco.com/
https://fatperformance-rimco.com/
Jake Raby as he’s back himself building the Type 4 engines
Great to see another vintage racer that follows the rules!!!
CVAR? I’m betting
A lot of integrity in that club!
AJRS in Colorado has been building race type 4 engines for ?30 years.
Actually. Longer. I’ve been a customer for 30
Raby of course also
CVAR? I’m betting
A lot of integrity in that club!
AJRS in Colorado has been building race type 4 engines for ?30 years.
Actually. Longer. I’ve been a customer for 30
Raby of course also
QUOTE(brant @ May 14 2021, 07:52 AM)
Great to see another vintage racer that follows the rules!!!
CVAR? I’m betting
A lot of integrity in that club!
AJRS in Colorado has been building race type 4 engines for ?30 years.
Actually. Longer. I’ve been a customer for 30
Raby of course also
Thanks for the lead!
As for Raby, it seems he is indeed out of competitive motor building... Here's what he wrote in regards to my contact.
QUOTE
I stopped working with race applications about 10 years ago. Between the [stupid] rule books, and the intensity of the builds there was no upside for me. We raced a 914 in SCCA F Production for years and I learned to hate rule books, and rule committees. The only racing I deal with today is Land Speed Racing, where there's only rules on fuel, and engine size. The rest of it allows extreme creativity without rule constraints.
With rules and constraints building a race engine meant that I couldn't even make it as good as one of my street engines without breaking the rules. There's no fun in that for me, and considering that there's zero potential for profit when building a race engine, the only thing that drove me when building race engines was the fun of it
Dawe's Motorsports is another shop to look into
QUOTE(jeff951nj @ May 14 2021, 04:11 PM)
Dawe's Motorsports is another shop to look into
Peter sure knows how to make an engine sing.
AJRS
I just had a street engine built by FAT and I'm pleased with the build quality. Runs nice.
I'd have no problem with them building a race engine. Only suggestion is that you work closely with the specific builder to ensure you're on the same page on the desired specs.
I'd have no problem with them building a race engine. Only suggestion is that you work closely with the specific builder to ensure you're on the same page on the desired specs.
I’ve heard good things about http://www.europeanmotorworks.com/. I’ve talked to Jorge on the phone and he seems like a stand up guy.
As said, do your own research first and have a clear picture of what you want to do going in.
Also check rules carefully as different organizations have different enforcement rituals. Even then, some don’t enforce their own rules. For example I contacted SCCA about a couple things clearly stated in their vintage rules my car has ( crank fired ignition, etc) that are not allowed, and the tech guy said to not worry about it. They are mostly concerned about safety gear (good), and oddly tires. All the sanctioning bodies with the possible exception of SVRA are desperate for entries, so just make it look vintage (no big wings or aero) and don’t draw attention to what’s under the hood. If you’re spanking everyone they’ll move you up a class. I can tell you right now there will be “overbuilt” cars in every class.
A 1.7 will never put out enough hp to over stress a stock bottom end so don’t spend much on billet crank, fancy rods, etc. Put your money into the heads, cam and intake. It’s not likely that a scruiteneer will notice 3 bolt 2.0 heads rather than 4 so I’d go with those. Run big valves (44 or 46 /38), do some port work, matched to the intake manifolds and a set of Weber 40’s and race headers. Then get a good programmable distributor (123). Kick the compression up a few ticks and get rid of as much parasitic power loss (alternator, fan etc) as possible. Dial in the gearing and go have fun.
As said, do your own research first and have a clear picture of what you want to do going in.
Also check rules carefully as different organizations have different enforcement rituals. Even then, some don’t enforce their own rules. For example I contacted SCCA about a couple things clearly stated in their vintage rules my car has ( crank fired ignition, etc) that are not allowed, and the tech guy said to not worry about it. They are mostly concerned about safety gear (good), and oddly tires. All the sanctioning bodies with the possible exception of SVRA are desperate for entries, so just make it look vintage (no big wings or aero) and don’t draw attention to what’s under the hood. If you’re spanking everyone they’ll move you up a class. I can tell you right now there will be “overbuilt” cars in every class.
A 1.7 will never put out enough hp to over stress a stock bottom end so don’t spend much on billet crank, fancy rods, etc. Put your money into the heads, cam and intake. It’s not likely that a scruiteneer will notice 3 bolt 2.0 heads rather than 4 so I’d go with those. Run big valves (44 or 46 /38), do some port work, matched to the intake manifolds and a set of Weber 40’s and race headers. Then get a good programmable distributor (123). Kick the compression up a few ticks and get rid of as much parasitic power loss (alternator, fan etc) as possible. Dial in the gearing and go have fun.
I care nothing about competitive applications these days. This isn't just limited to T4s/ 914s, but also the modern Porsche engines that my Flat 6 Innovations division.
Between fighting with rules committees (usually headed up by people that have no first hand experience with engines) to rules that constantly change, and constant support being necessary, its not for a guy like me. I'm only in it for the physics part, and the rules kill the physics.
I'm also booked solid till 2023 on T4 builds, and racers don't have patience for that.
Between fighting with rules committees (usually headed up by people that have no first hand experience with engines) to rules that constantly change, and constant support being necessary, its not for a guy like me. I'm only in it for the physics part, and the rules kill the physics.
I'm also booked solid till 2023 on T4 builds, and racers don't have patience for that.
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