Bolting back up the rear control arms. Where the front of it attaches to the chassis, shouldn't there be a large flat washer on both sides under the big nut? PET shows a washer on the inside.

Next, how do I determine how many shims to use in my link bearing initial setup. Is there a measurement I can take? I have two 3mm and three 4mm. Be nice to get this dialed in at the start.

On illustration 501-00 item #4 is called a stopper. Is that metal or plastic and what does it do?

How do I determine what spring weight I have on my rear coilovers? Measure the diameter of the spring steel itself?

Thanks!

Although PET shows a washer i have get to find one one a car and have torn down many.
Most cars need about 5mm of shim. But that de lo ends on many factors including how distorted the rubber bushing are in the comtrol arms. Start with what you have and let the car down. Eye ball it from behund the car untill the camber is about 0

Ok...thats going to be tough with the 3 and 4mm shims I have. If I use one 4mm per side I start with a little negative camber. My bushings are new. Can't eyeball it from behind the car...chassis is on a dolly being re-assembled.

I looked in my Haynes manual and it shows one washer on the control arm which confirms PET

What is the #4 stopper for?

PO was an avid autoxer. Spring steel diameter is 12mm on the coilovers...is that stock?

There should be no washer between the pivot shaft and the body on either end. The bar is serrated on the ends where it contacts the body so it will bite in and keep the bar from turning in the hole. However, there are washers under each nut on the outside of each end.

Hope that helps.

Clay

@speedo

And the Schnoor washers on the three bts that hold the outer bracket must be replaced with new ones.

To change the number of shims you only need the remove one bolt and loosen the other two.

[quote name='Speedo' date='May 17 2021, 07:39 PM' post='2916660']



What is the #4 stopper for?

#4 the stoppers are placed at the top to keep dirt/crud out of the threads. They are easily removed to add lots of penetrating oil to ease removal of the M10 X 55 bolts.

On '75-'76 (?) I'm pretty sure there are no 'stoppers' the holes are welded shut.

So ready to pull the hubs into the control arm rear bearings. Ok to lubricate the inner bearing race and the outside of the hub? Or is it better to be a dry "pressed" fit?

@speedo

Lube is ok. Make sure you support the inner race of the bearing when you pull in the hub.

Absolutely. Been there...unfortunately.