After a year of waiting, I finally have a windshield ready for me to pick up only about 100 miles away. I will swing by Harbor Freight and pick up some suction cup lifters for the install. Call me paranoid, but they have a variety of choices and I want to make sure I get some that work. None are expensive which increases my paranoia. which ones have a proven success record?

I can only say the orange plastic, and probably the cheapest, ones aren't worth a bucket full of . That being said you don't need them but if you must I'd buy the most expensive. Don't lay the windshield down on the hood. Ask me how I know. In fact only set the windshield on it's bottom edge. Make a gauge to check the thickness of the butylene tape after it is laid down. Makes for a quicker job if the butyl surface is consistent. Tape down some cardboard on the cowl so you've got a place to set the edge of the glass on. It doesn't hurt to do a dry run before you stick the butyl down either.

Brent, I bought the red ones from HF. They worked fine, you need to press them pretty firm on glass as you apply the suction so have some foam under the it. Mark

As a member of the windshield self-install club (with a solid win/loss record)
allow me.
First, clean the flange thoroughly, remove all residue, wipe with wax/ grease
remover.
Second, lay glass in place on the flange (no butyl yet) and CENTER it with
whatever you can. Centering the glass accurately is critical to trim install
later. 1" pieces of paint stirrers work for me. Tape the spacers in place.
The rubbers that come with the 3M butyl kit are a bit too thick.
Third, lay one piece of 2" wide tape on the bottom center of the glass extending
straight across the gap onto the cowl. This tape acts as your guide / target
to first contact as the glass is lowered into place
Make sure that you have a spacer or spacers near the center bottom of
the glass.
Fourth, install butyl as uniformly as you can.
Fifth, with an assistant, lower the glass close to the frame allowing the center bottom to touch first (accurately centered !)
Allow glass to settle on full perimeter. Check for full contact on butyl.
Sixth, relax.

A little moisture on the suction cup usually makes for a tighter seal.

I add an alignment mark with a sharpie from the bottom center of the windshield to the cowl when doing the test fit.

Did you get the single cup version or dual cup? The dual cup seems like overkill but what do I know?

And thanks all for the great tips. I've actually installed glass in 914s a couple times, but never on a car I was concerned about getting it perfect and those suction cups weren't readily available to non-professionals at the time. In fact, the reason my car is missing a windshield is because I removed it to replace a cracked glass on another one I was driving at the time.

I have never installed a windscreen on a 914, but I assume there are "setting blocks" the dead weight of the glass sits on. If so, I would skip the cups and engage a helper to assist in setting the glass. We are glaziers/ window people and often I prefer to run without cups.

Protect the cowl and take your time. The new glass probably is set in some sort of butyl tape and sealed with a cap bead of silicone. What does the factory say about all this?

The factory install uses the butyl as the attachment and the sealer.
Yes, setting blocks are suggested but those that come with the 3M butyl are too
big.
I think the factory repair manual provides a dimension. I'll check.
The currently available glass (non-OEM) may not be true to original dimension
making exact centering crucial. If not placed properly trim installation could be
very challenging.

Yes I used the double ones. I installed the black rubber trim instead of the metal and can not use block for placement......the rubber trim is somewhat self centering. There is a trick to using the black rubber trim. PM me if interested. Mark

I forgotten the name of the stuff. But it best to primer the flange first.