I have a 75 1.8 that was sitting for quite some time. I replaced the fuel lines with Tangerine's SS, Filter, Pump, Vacuum Lines, Spark Plugs, new fluids all around and new battery. Fuel has pressure and the car will attempt to start but never turns over. I only put in about 1.5 gallons of gas in case I had to pull the tank again if there were any issues. Do I need more gas than that in the tank since it's all new lines? I was hesitant to add any more. I've got some items in the passenger seat but did buckle both seat belts.

Looks like my next check is the ignition switch and relay's under the seats. Should that be my first trouble shooting area? This is my first more intensive work on a car I've done so I feel clueless and keep hitting walls. I followed Pelican's diagrams and checked all connections and double checked to make sure I had the lines set up correctly. Fuel pump is moving fluid and I can hear it turn on.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I know the car has been sitting for a long time, but it was running fine just before it was parked for a decade.

Thanks,
Brian

To double check, you're saying the starter's cranking the engine but it won't fire up?

Have you checked the spark plugs to make sure they're getting a spark?

If they're not, could be your spark plug leads, or your ignition coil? Possibly your dizzy too, although I'm not an expert on this stuff, so maybe others can chime in.


EDIT, because I did some more research:

Here's a simple explanation of how an ignition system works, skip to the 9 minute mark for ignition coil stuff (if you know this already, I apologize, but I learned something so WTH )

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=742Ml4oD3s4

So, if you're not getting spark it could also be the lead from your ignition coil to your dizzy, or there could be an issue with your distributor cap, or rotor, or points...

Either way, first step is to check whether or not you're getting a spark:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69Km8qAKJ18

Checking out the vids on lunch. Thanks!

Well I checked two of the plugs and both are sparking. I feel like I need to pull the tank and check the fuel pump again and make sure it's pressurized and there's not a kink somewhere.

Yeah, if you're getting spark I'd make sure fuel is actually getting to the engine.

Can you see fuel filling up the fuel filter when the fuel pump is running?

I'm assuming your car has FI not a carb. I don't know enough about FI, but I'm guessing if it's sat that long it could have all sorts of issues with old fuel clogging up the injectors, etc.

I’m not sure at this point. Injectors wouldn’t surprise me, but I just found some gas underneath the pedals that pooled. I did find a small leak on the bolt underneath the tank for the return line, but can’t figure out how it pooled there. I’m gonna see if my buddy can come over this weekend and take a look. Otherwise I might just tow it in for some help to get it going again.

Hello, try to add gas. I have few friends same issue and after adding more fuel to the tank. Issue solved. Plus borrow a fuel pressure test kit from auto shop that you will pay first and refund when you return. They usually have it on their loaner tools.

Where are you in SoCal?

assuming this is 1.8 with L jet injection intact.

there is a quick test you can do for fuel delivery if you can't get a pressure guage.
pull a fuel line off the injector ring at the return end, after the injectors.
get a measuring jug. mark off 0.5 L or 500ml. take the air cleaner hose/plenum off that connects to the throttle body. push the air flow flap open inside the end of the aircleaner housing with the ignition on. the fuel pump won't run in a 1.8 until you crank to start or do this procedure. time 30 seconds and turn ignition off or let flap go. you should have 500ml or thereabouts in the jug.
you might need two people to do this as its a bit awkward. one to hold the hose in the jug and one to push the flap open. but you might be able to manage it alone.
its part of the fuel delivery test anyway as it measures delivery flow. pressure is the other half of the equation.

all that is for a 74 with the pump under the engine, but i think it would be similar for a 75 which has fuel pump in front. its got to get that fuel delivery and pressure at the engine.

also a 75 is pushing the fuel at pressure through the cabin, so if there is a leak its going to flood from the front and pool at a fair rate if its after the fuel pump up in the front there.

it could also be your fuel pump is cactus. this test will tell you. or its not getting fuel. same thing in the end.

if the fuel is getting to the engine and the end of the injector circuit, move on to other issues.

good luck -- fuel pooling at front is a sign of an issue, but it might not be all the issues


re engine will attempt to start?
do you mean it runs for about 5 to 10 seconds?
if so that means about a 90% chance its starting on the cold injector, which is working, but the rest of them are not working. the cold injector shuts off quickly and hence engine stops because the other injectors are meant to be running it by then. but it will run for a short while just on the cold injector.
this was the case with mine after a 16 year lay up. (74 1.8 same thing basically as yours).
it also ran perfectly when i parked it 1/4 of a lifetime ago (i sound like a dodgy craigslist ad !!!!)
i had cleaned the injectors but to no avial. pintels end up corroded. even a clean will not make them function, despite a test that said we had resurrected them.
i bought some new injectors and presto it ran.

that the injectors are not working could be electrical.
but after 10 years more likely the injectors are cactus if you have not replaced them (injectors are not on your list of things you replaced/renewed?).
and if they are not cactus, the hoses on the end of them will be and you would drive about 10 miles and burn down.

I'm in Yorba Linda, NE Orange County.

I thought about this and picked up some more gas today. I have a little over a quarter tank in and it's still not turning over. I did find a small leak on the return line in the engine bay after the rail so I feel like gas is flowing, but not sure on pressure. I've got Grandma taking the kiddos up to Big Bear for the weekend so I'm going to try and see if I can borrow a fuel pressure test kit like you said and check that out.

When I attempt to start I mean I can hear the starter. It only once gave a little burp like it was trying to turn over, but that was just once. Any recommendation on injectors to use to replace?

I'm trying to run out today to get a pressure test kit to try that, but if not I appreciate your recommendation on checking the flow.

injectors are hard to get. not made or stocked anymore.
shared exactly with 75-76 VW beetles. Bosch # 0280 150 112.

almost shared with the following.
74 412, 75-79 Kombi, 80-83 Vanagon. # 0280 150 114.
or
77-79 Beetle #0280 150 116.
all that is different is delivery hose on the 114s and the 116s.

if you remove the delivery hose from a 114 or 116 and replace with correct curvature hoses you are good to go. you can get hoses from pelican parts etc. correct hoses place the injector fuel rail in the right position unstressed.

any or all of these you can probably only source via private sellers.
thesamba can be a good place to look.
its important they are still sealed in bags with plastic end caps on the pintels and have never been used. it is possible to find them but you have to really search around and wait for them to come up. they can be expensive.

some guys here know what can now be used as replacements and are more easily found/economical to buy.

probably a good idea to get hold of a set of injectors regardless - given the time interval sitting.

track down the fuel pressure/fuel flow first. see how you go with that

Have you tried spraying some starting fluid in the intake just to see if the engine will fire? This won't fix anything but will give you a hint as to what is wrong. From what you've said it does sound like a fuel-related issue. The starting fluid would at least let you hear the engine fire briefly.