What is the new “best practice” for removing and cleaning a fuel tank?
Car sat for 15 years.
Previously I took a tank to a radiator shop to have him boil it out.
He decided that drilling a 2.5 inch hole on top of the tank, drivers side somehow made sense. He did repair the hole as just normal practice. It looked like shit, I tossed it out.
Just needs fuel system redo and seals.
I also heard someone is making new tanks now?
Rich
Full Version: Tank cleaning
I believe Dansk is making new ones.
QUOTE(Freezin 914 @ Jun 5 2021, 06:06 PM) 
I believe Dansk is making new ones.
I just went through this on a '75 conversion car. 15+ years sitting with a full tank 
I "examined" the tank with a welding rod, and it felt like there was 1/2" of bubble gum in the bottom. Then there's dealing with dead gasoline
No way I'd deal with that tank, except to drain it. Not with a new tank for $200
I "examined" the tank with a welding rod, and it felt like there was 1/2" of bubble gum in the bottom. Then there's dealing with dead gasoline No way I'd deal with that tank, except to drain it. Not with a new tank for $200
We just went through this, but the tank was empty, West coast car had been sitting for a while. Tank looked original never been removed prior to our removal. I plugged the feed and return lines and added a couple gallons of new gas. Swished it around and around and emptied the gas into a clean 5 gallon bucket. I let the heavy stuff settle and poured clean gas off the top. What was left was a very fine dark brown residue, probably not rust. I repeated this several times until I was getting very little residue. Tank is now installed and seems fine. I also flushed the fuel lines and changed the fuel filter a few times.
QUOTE(IronHillRestorations @ Jun 6 2021, 11:00 AM)
I just went through this on a '75 conversion car. 15+ years sitting with a full tank
I "examined" the tank with a welding rod, and it felt like there was 1/2" of bubble gum in the bottom. Then there's dealing with dead gasoline No way I'd deal with that tank, except to drain it. Not with a new tank for $200
I found a radiator place near me a couple years ago to clean it up.
they did a good job without drilling holes....
….but, probably cost the same as the $200 new one mentioned above
I just had the tank on my 75 boiled and sealed a few months ago. A radiator shop in Temecula, CA did the work.
The tank cam back nice and the work was done very quickly. It cost about $195.00 when all was said and done.
I was driving my '74 the other day and it started sputtering and spitting. I figured it was time to go through the fuel system in any event, because of it's age. I purchased a Dansk tank for $210.00. It hasn't been delivered yet, still in transit, but for the $15.00 difference, it seems to be a better deal. I know that you have to trim a little off the upper seam for the bridge to fit properly but, that's easy to do and clean up.
The tank cam back nice and the work was done very quickly. It cost about $195.00 when all was said and done.
I was driving my '74 the other day and it started sputtering and spitting. I figured it was time to go through the fuel system in any event, because of it's age. I purchased a Dansk tank for $210.00. It hasn't been delivered yet, still in transit, but for the $15.00 difference, it seems to be a better deal. I know that you have to trim a little off the upper seam for the bridge to fit properly but, that's easy to do and clean up.
Today, I think the new tank is the ticket. 
QUOTE(mmichalik @ Jun 7 2021, 11:25 AM)
I just had the tank on my 75 boiled and sealed a few months ago. A radiator shop in Temecula, CA did the work.
The tank cam back nice and the work was done very quickly. It cost about $195.00 when all was said and done.
I was driving my '74 the other day and it started sputtering and spitting. I figured it was time to go through the fuel system in any event, because of it's age. I purchased a Dansk tank for $210.00. It hasn't been delivered yet, still in transit, but for the $15.00 difference, it seems to be a better deal. I know that you have to trim a little off the upper seam for the bridge to fit properly but, that's easy to do and clean up.
...is that $210 delivered?
I had mine done by a shop that specializes in it. Cleaned, patched if necessary, and coated. Lifetime warranty. Could look up the info if you guys need, this was back in 2016.
I think if it's done by pro's a refurbished tank is just as good as a re-pop.
I think if it's done by pro's a refurbished tank is just as good as a re-pop.
QUOTE(rmital @ Jun 7 2021, 08:27 AM)
QUOTE(mmichalik @ Jun 7 2021, 11:25 AM)
I just had the tank on my 75 boiled and sealed a few months ago. A radiator shop in Temecula, CA did the work.
The tank cam back nice and the work was done very quickly. It cost about $195.00 when all was said and done.
I was driving my '74 the other day and it started sputtering and spitting. I figured it was time to go through the fuel system in any event, because of it's age. I purchased a Dansk tank for $210.00. It hasn't been delivered yet, still in transit, but for the $15.00 difference, it seems to be a better deal. I know that you have to trim a little off the upper seam for the bridge to fit properly but, that's easy to do and clean up.
...is that $210 delivered?
Because I ordered so much, the shipping was free.
Here's the tank I ordered: https://www.partsgeek.com/ss/?ssq=1974+Porsche+914+Fuel+Tank
I looked at Pelican and at AA, they are the same part (from part number comparisons) but, significantly less expensive.
I installed a Dansk last summer, very happy with it. Fit was perfect not sure on how close to the real thing it looks but close enough for me.
Providing this for informational purposes only. I'm not advocating cleaning over new but I have a special circumstance that nudged me to clean mine and am sharing before and after photos.
My circumstance is that I just bought this car that had been sitting for 3 years and I want to at least drive it around the block for evaluation purposes before starting a lengthy refurbishment. Part of that will be a new tank but who knows when I'll need it and there are more impactful parts to buy just now. So FWIW, I'm going to drive it (hopefully) for a while with a partially cleaned out tank.
If anyone cares, after banging around on it with rubber mallet and shaking out and vacuuming as much of the crud as possible, I flushed it with water, let it dry and poured in a bottle of fuel system cleaner. Next I added a few handfuls of left over nuts and bolts, sealed the openings and gave it the old cocktail shaker treatment. Then flushed it out with more water and took it to the DIY car wash for soapy pressure wash. Let it dry for a week or so and there you have it. Is there still probably crud on the walls of the other end behind the baffle? - certainly. Will it clog the outlet any time soon? Hopefully not. I also have blown out the fuel lines and replaced the filter and all tank gaskets and washers.
Ron
Click to view attachment Click to view attachment
My circumstance is that I just bought this car that had been sitting for 3 years and I want to at least drive it around the block for evaluation purposes before starting a lengthy refurbishment. Part of that will be a new tank but who knows when I'll need it and there are more impactful parts to buy just now. So FWIW, I'm going to drive it (hopefully) for a while with a partially cleaned out tank.
If anyone cares, after banging around on it with rubber mallet and shaking out and vacuuming as much of the crud as possible, I flushed it with water, let it dry and poured in a bottle of fuel system cleaner. Next I added a few handfuls of left over nuts and bolts, sealed the openings and gave it the old cocktail shaker treatment. Then flushed it out with more water and took it to the DIY car wash for soapy pressure wash. Let it dry for a week or so and there you have it. Is there still probably crud on the walls of the other end behind the baffle? - certainly. Will it clog the outlet any time soon? Hopefully not. I also have blown out the fuel lines and replaced the filter and all tank gaskets and washers.
Ron
Click to view attachment Click to view attachment
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