Good day folks,

Wanna-be 914 owner looking at a 1973 Phoenix Red with black. I know that there are known facts that if the door gaps on top are small and doors are difficult to open, then the body frame/floor may be beyond repair. However, the car I checked out has larger gaps on the top of both doors with what looks like surface rusts on the floors underneath both doors. and both doors open and shut fine. Looks like the passenger door may be a replacement due to yellow paint in the front inner door jam by the mirror. No other evidence of replacement panels and the rear trunk is good without any rusts and original.

thanks for all and any advice
-Hoi
Click to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentClick to view attachment[attachmentid=796
469]Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentClick to view attachment[attachmentid
=796474]

Welcome aboard. Pics?

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=94568

Is there an engine/trans in it?

Thanks for the help in how to insert pics.
Yes, there are engine and trans.
The car picks up incredibly well from 4-6000 rpm. He says it’s probably around 140 hp with the reworked 2.4L engine.

I see previous rust repair, could be that the car was not properly braced and warped when welded.

We'll need some better closeups of the underside ...

Sorry, I didn't get better undercarriage pics. It was on a hot black asphalt on a sunny day at 90 degrees. So would the door gaps make you hesitant about this car?

Supposedly, he's raced it for 15 years and more and it's never given him problems.

Interior is decent with nice door cards. 4-point harness seats now, but the originals will need reupholstered.

He's flexible with price at asking ~$20k with extra transmission, parts, etc.

Run. Run away fast.

Should be flexible down to about $7k with rust and warning signs of the doors.

Having raced it for 15 years is a net negative. Racing is hard on a chassis.

Not getting underneath a 914 can easily cost you $20K in rust repair work. Bring cardboard with you next time.

Hell hole previously rusted and patched. That usually means battery acid and corrosion is also down in the longitudinal.
Rear fire wall has rust hole? Is that a fiberglass patch on the rear fire wall? Just a hole in the sound barrier? I can't tell from photo.
Door jambs showing rust
Underbody / Long with limited view in pics show rust
Repaint. Paint looks nice but hides a multitude of previous sins.
Overspray on front hood seal. Cowl filler painted over. Bubble under paint on cowl. All signs of cheap re-spray & poor paint prep.
Bolt sticking through floor pan?

2.4L big bore 4 cylinder engine is not usually considered to be highly reliable over the long term unless built with proper parts. They rarely are.

"The car picks up incredibly well from 4-6000 rpm. He says it’s probably around 140 hp with the reworked 2.4L engine."
Statement above sounds like a race engine. May be great for the track but a PITA to drive in traffic.

HP estimates are usually bogus unless he has a dyno chart to prove it. I'd doubt a 140 HP estimate. Incredibily rare to get a 40% HP bump from a 20% displacement bump on a T4 engine. Maybe I'm mistaken but I assume we aren't talking about a 2.4L six cylinder for that $20K price.

Well done for checking for input here. I'm also a newbie but $20K for that is ridiculous. I got my '73, all original and with probably the same level of (non - botched) rust for $4k. Not running but it will be this weekend after cleaning out the fuel system.

If you're planning to spend that much, here is one that's more representative of a $20K 914: https://www.ebay.com/itm/133776236120?hash=...=p2047675.l2557

It will take some time but keep looking - the right one is out there.

Ron

At $20K it should be immaculate. Way too crusty (and thrashed). Interior stuff is cheap, so don't be swayed by a pretty interior. The paint bubbles and door gaps are a flashing warning sign. I'd call it up to a $10k car, but that's relative to my market and experience. You need to get it on a lift and get a PPI if you're serious.

Honestly looks like lots of stuff done in a hurry, and / or without experience. Bolts sticking out they shouldn't be any.

As Andy mentioned, warped metal most likely from a previous repair that was not braced.
Lot's of little details that are not right all the way down to the decals.

I'd avoid it. 10k is generous and I wouldn't offer 1/2 of that.

Thanks so much for much needed honest advice!
I love this forum.
BTW, I should probably start a WTB thread :-)!

Take your time and look around, I recently found a West coast car advertised as a "rust free project'. I made the purchase sight unseen and it arrived a few weeks later. Worth the wait for sure. There was an engine and trans shipped separately, supposedly the engine "needed rebuild". I got the engine running a few weeks ago on the bench, seems fine.

Sure rust projects can be completed, but try to find a reasonably solid example.

It's very worth it to spend the money to have a dry car shipped than spend the time and money to fix a rusted out tub. I got lucky with my current one... sold new through Beverly Hills Porsche and stayed there for decades. Even that relatively dry car still needed a lot of fabrication and welding.

I am learning more and more about the 914's structure and what specifically to look for. Like longitudinal rusts along with the battery run off hole, etc. The door gaps was the latest lesson I have learned here that saved me from this vehicle. Glad I posted pics and asked my fellow 914world members before pulling the trigger.

Also, never thought about bringing a cardboard with me to check out cars (duh, such an obvious solution)!

Thanks!