Local garage puts a copper colored grease on the back of the rims where they touch the rotors on our 'other' cars when they do tire rotations. Had the rims refinished on the 914 and installing new rotors. Looking for this kind of grease; the FLAPS think they know what I'm talking about, but don't carry it.
Do you recommend it, and if so, is there a name/brand I can look for.

Wurth CU1100

They call it copper slip in England, we call it anti seize. I have only been able to find Permatex brand that is silver color. It's all nasty, gets on everything and it hard to get off, but it works. I use de-greasing wipes for me and the tools.

Sounds like a good way to sheer lug bolts on a car without proper fitting hubcentric wheels & hubs.

Anti-seize, three types.
Aluminum
Copper aluminum
Nickel - high heat
I use Nickel anti-seize between the piston and the back of the brake pads.
I use copper on the face of the rotor or back side of the wheel. Especially around the hubcentric area of the front rotor.
Nickel on all steel hardware going into aluminum.
Aluminum on all hardware exposed to weather.
Works great.

Greg W.

My thought, too, since it would greatly reduce the friction produced by the clamping force of the lug bolts (and that friction is what keeps the wheel from shifting on the brake disk hat).

Here in the land of salt, I use it on everything. It is very useful on hub centric seating surfaces so that a wheel is reasonably easy to remove. Otherwise it can take full baseball bat swings with a 10 lb sledgehammer to remove the wheel.

Charlie

I'm reading a lot of examples of people putting the copper not only on the center for keeping that from sticking, but on the whole face. I see above here some concern. The wet clutch on my sand drag bike was able to produce adequate friction with the heavy springs so it did not slip once engaged. I would imagine that the lug bolts are producing the necessary coefficient of friction to keep the wheels from coming lose.

I think you are missing the point entirely. The copper antisieze was used on the mating surfaces to reduce galvanic corrosion between aluminum rims and iron rotor. It was not directly applied to the threads of the bolts.
I don't think you will shear lug bolts if properly torqued to spec.
Where can I get hubcentric rotors or hubs for the rear of my 914/4?

I've had my Fuchs stuck so tight to the hubs that a flat tire on the road would have required a tow truck rather than a 15 minute tire change.

Thanks all. Without snipping and clipping replies..

Since the local trusted shop I take the DD to uses it, I'm thinking it is OK since the shop also would have liability issues if there was a problem.

The 914 is a -6 with steelies so I want something that protects the rotor to rim surfaces. And since these have studs instead of lug bolts, I'm thinking the lug nut clamping won't be an issue.

Probably put a dab on the caliper mounting bolts.

At some point I will be pulling the heat exchangers, sounds like this stuff is good for the exhaust nuts.

Copper sounds like the best all around option.

Use Nickel anti-seize on the heat exchangers. It is made for high heat applications.

Greg W.

They is a lot of disagreement on using anti-seize on lug bolts.
I have own VW/Audi/914 continuously for 52 years. I have been using anti-seize on my lug bolts for 52 years. I have never had a lug bolt come out. I do track days in my Audi.

Greg W.

Yeah I put the copper anti-seize when the wheel meets the hub, and I put it on the threads too so the lug nuts won't rust to the wheel studs.

Everything gets torqued to 60, then 80, and then 90 pounds, working the torque wrench in a star pattern around the studs.

I've never had an issue - with wheels coming loose or with lugs and wheels rusting to the hub.

Cheis Foley of Tangerine Racing makes a ring that nakes rear hubs hub centric.

@davep

You don't need to slather it on either. A thin coat works without a big mess.