Checked the wire harness, all the terminals have continuity. Double relay is new. resistor pack checks out with the ohm meter. I have fuel pressure and spark. It appears the injectors are not firing. How do I check for power to fire the injectors? Last resort is to swap out the ECU with a spare. I have 12 volts between pin 10 and 17 on the ECU plug.

Check the resistor pack and see if the center wire is broken.

Check to see if the white wire from the ECU is connected to the negative side of the coil.


Let me know what you find.

Clay

White wire is connected to negative side of the coil, has continuity to pin 1. Tested coil pack with an ohm meter, each resistor tested 7 ohms. This all started when I installed my newly rebuilt 2056. I pulled the plugs and cranked the engine to get oil pressure. I noticed smoke from the cold start valve. the valve shorted out and fried the wires to the AUX AIR Valve and Thermo Time Switch. I peeled back the burnt wires and replaced them with new. Checked all the plugs and terminals for continuity. everything checks out. I am wondering if the ECU took a dump from the short. I can test the injector plug for 12 volts, but can't test for ground with out a noid light which is controlled by the ECU.

You probably fried the "ECU". I would get a new harness too.

Clay

Try to get a noid light; a mechanic buddy lent me his kit when my car started dumping fuel after running over some really rough road. Showing constant power, that told me the ECU had died. It does happen, despite their robust build

A new harness would be nice, they’re not inexpensive but probably more than worth it if you’re gonna hold on to the car

HTH

I hooked up a spare ECU, Air Flow meter and Wire harness from a 1974 1.8L. I have gone through and rebuilt the wire harness and everything checks out. I am not certain about the ECU and Airflo meter. When I start the car it wants to start, but just sputters. If I disconnect the plug at the Airflo meter, it will run for a few seconds and die.

I don't know LJet as well as DJet, but IIRC the AFM controls the fuel pump, except during the start circuit (where the pump runs as long as the start circuit is hot).

If that follows, then it seems the AFM is either damaged and not engaging the fuel pump relay, or you have a wire problem to the fuel pump relay from the AFM. Have you tried jumping the fuel pump relay to see if the car runs?

You noted the "injectors are not firing"; how did you determine that? Some may be inferring you're not getting electrical power to the injectors; maybe you're not getting fuel.

The car Starts and runs for a few seconds with the Airflow meter unplugged. So I am assuming something is wrong with the Airflow meter . It says to check pins 36 to 39 with the flap open should read 0 ohms. Mine reads 1.0 ohms. With the flap closed it reads infinity .L

(troubleshooting electrical problems over the Internet is such a PITA, and I rararely jump in cause of that...but I do like a challenge...)



Right. So.

"Starts and runs" implies fuel (pressure) for only a short duration.

As noted prior, (to my understanding) the AFM controls the fuel pump relay circuit (and, therefore, is not controlling the fuel pump relay circuit when it's unplugged) and yet the pump runs during the cranking circuit (because the relay cicrcuit bypasses the AFM and keeps the fuel pump relay engaged when the starter circuit is engaged). It would follow that the fuel pump relay is subsequently turned off when you release the key from the start circuit.

Therefore...just humor me...please jump the fuel pump relay and have it running all the time to see if the car continues to run after releasing the starter switch.

I just packet up the ECU and the AFM to have them checked out. I will repost in about 10 days when I receive them back. Thanks everyone for all the replies.