Hi folks, hope everybody had a good weekend. This car is going to have a 2.4 L carbureted/6 engine hurt but at some point in the future will need the hell hole tidied up. I just need to get the engine in and the car running so well I understand I’m creating more work for myself at some point in the future it’s time to get this thing moving under its own power.

Given that I am thinking about relocating the battery to the position as shown. I am imagining a plastic battery tray that simply bolted to the floor would be fine, but wanted to get some thoughts prior to diving in..

Thanks!

(Sharp eyed people who have had their morning coffee will probably spot that there’s a 3.2 L in there, different plans for that motor)

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It works well, but consider swapping down to a smaller more modern form factor, the traditional batter is large and heavy:

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I've seen them front and rear. I read that with a full tank the weight between the front and rear is eprox. 50-50. As the tank empties it gets heavier in back. But this info was on the internet, along with Bigfoot being the father of her baby.

I installed a lightweight AGM battery immediately above the starter (to shorten the positive cable length to the starter) and the ground cable to the standard ground point above the transaxle tail. The cables go through holes in the floor, protected by grommets.

Since the battery is an AGM, I mounted it on its side so the terminals go straight down. The terminals are protected from contact of junk in the trunk by rubber covers.

https://braillebattery.com/collections/lightweight-agm
https://braillebattery.com/collections/mounts

I personally like the original location for weight balance and aesthetics in the trunk. You could put it in the rear trunk temporarily while you work on the rust problem.

My folks – thanks for all of the responses. Agree on a modern more compact battery being a plus. Also thinking that at some point I may want to relocate it so using a plastic bowl town battery tray to hold it in place seems like a easily fixable approach.

Appreciate the responses, good coaching.

@eric9144 - Did you notice any difference with the additional bracing to the shock towers

There's so much stiffening on the whole car I honestly couldn't tell you, that's just the tip of the visual iceberg

I don't have this 914 anymore. I used an Odyssey PC680 I believe? It's covered by the floor carpet on the passenger side. Hardly took up any space which was nice.

Worked good for me. Only a 2.2 S. Click to view attachment

Thanks for the follow up gentlemen.

I’m odd man out. I’ll offer a contrarian point of view that I felt helps the handling dynamics.

I prefer front trunk on center line.

Down low reduce Cg height. Minimises the polar moment of inertia by centralised mass. Helps offset front end getting light with light fuel load.

Down side is long cable (4ga welding cable) to positive terminal on starter. Weight of the cable is a negative but it too is down low so not a terrible thing overall.

Ran my first teener like this - never a problem with starting other than once has a poor connection to the battery post. I felt this improved initial turn in on corners. Much easier to work on the battery in the Frunk.

As another plus - it really opens up the engine compartment for service. Especially so with Carbs.

YRMV

Thanks for the considerations.

I've found that I use the front trunk a LOT for luggage on road trips etc so a bit concerned about chewing up that space. I think due to the shape of the rear trunk I don't find myself using it much, hence that as a potential placement option.

Open to be convinced otherwise, can't argue with the physics of your suggestion.

Superhawk's physics are correct, but application has many negatives to me. A heavy cable running the length of the body has potential loss of battery "energy," and a real potential for shorts that could be catastrophic! The newer selection of lighter dry cell batteries available makes the trunk location viable with fewer potential location negatives. I just prefer the original battery tray location with a smaller and lighter new battery, a slight offset for the weight of the driver. .

I moved the battery to the trunk so I had room for the coil and MSD box. Fabricated a panel for mounting keep engine compartment clean. MarkClick to view attachment

Any of these make you happy?. The sealed ones with top worked great on my tender to my big boat

Bob BClick to view attachment

Agree with others, the shorter the run to the starter the better. I am running a tiny battery for my 3.6 YMMV.

Since the CIS components sit on the battery tray, moving the battery to the R-Side of the trunk was in the cards
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I was considering moving the battery also, but voted against. If things are kept in order, battery acid, corrosion, water infiltration and the like I think we will be just fine. If I was running a factory FI system, I would look into moving the ECU away from the battery.

Not the nicest picture, but here is mine:
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Once this was started it was time to say goodbye to using the trunk for golf clubs...

If you use a box don't bolt it to the floor. Otherwise you'll lose the protection it offers from acid. If you find a smaller sealed battery box, LMK. You can see how much extra space there is in the 2nd pic. I make good use of that space w/ a spare qt of oil, OBD2 tester, snake bite medicine and a few other items

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Some summary thoughts, having done this...

- Removing it from the engine compartment (and removing the tray) makes access easier.
- You're not going to notice the balance difference in a street car.
- Buy an AGM and you don't need to worry about spillage. It's a sealed non-venting battery. We put those batteries under secretary's desks, after all...
- Even if you leave it in the stock location, replacing it with a sealed AGM removes the primary hellhole causes...

Mine was already done (poorly) when I bought the hulk, b/c the hell hole was repaired and the battery tray not replaced. I just moved it to the left side over the starter, installed an AGM, and re-routed the cables better.

The race car still has the battery in the stock location. It's fine there, and just across the firewall from the kill switch.

"We put those batteries under secretary's desks, after all..."

WTF?

First of all I appreciate all of the thoughtful responses, you guys are just awesome.

I almost certainly would not have thought about drilling the battery box negating part of the value of the battery box, great tip.

Waiting on a mounting tray that I ordered, very similar to one of the ones that you kindly provided pictures of Bob.

Next up is figuring out the right links for the cables.

Put all your Junk in the Rear Trunk..

PC battery backups: UPSs. VRLA Valve Regulated Lead Acid technology, with AGM Absorbed Glass Mat. Sealed so it won't leak, cut one open and it won't leak. Leave it upright, lay it down sideways, whatever you want to do, it keeps on ticking.

Good morning, so I finished moving the battery yesterday, thanks again for the ideas and considerations.

I know that the leads from the battery to the car should be a short as possible, especially the positive cable. Did you guys drill holes in the trunk floor and then just use a grommet to seal it up or did you go through one of the shock tower openings?

Any thoughts on the neatest way to route the battery cables after the battery’s been relocated to the rear trunk? Thanks!

As you noted above, mine go straight down through the floor through hole grommets.

Thanks @GregAmy

Reviving this thread ‘cause I need to finalize a decision on where I’m gonna put the battery on this particular build. The reason for not going with stock location is, this car will begin with an air cooled engine but will probably become my Suby car with an EG33 which I believe routes the air cleaner over to where the battery normally sits - and is also a reason for eliminating front trunk (radiator, etc) . So… since I was gonna weld in a stock bat tray anyway, I’ve been considering using it over on the right side of the rear trunk. Here’s two configuration options - thoughts? Also, I’m gonna have to figure out where to drill for the cable (as well as size hole/grommet for that), help appreciated.

I could do it this way too. I’ll probably be using a newer/smaller type battery but will an older style even allow the trunk lid to close in this location?

My final trunk mount after fabricating hold down bracket.Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

no way don't do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok well since you highlighted/quoted a similar question as mine (but from a year ago), I assume you’re comment is not necessarily regarding my circumstances (latest post on the subject in this thread - and I probably should have made a separate thread). But IF.. you meant to reply to me then please expound while addressing the issues I mentioned ^.

I suppose really it would be fine where I’m thinking of putting it (see pics above) and just a matter of figuring out hold-down bracketry and cable placement. But Im open to hear all considerations before deciding.

Well, I too think dr914 is a little short sighted. We can't all have or want original 914's. I think the original battery placement was always a compromise and with all our cars getting older the amount of luggage space is no longer a big issue, our trips are shorter, these cars are for fun. Place the battery where it work for you.. Best, Mark

I’m a fan of the stock location. It really fits into how these cars were designed and packaged. Luggage space, weight distribution, optimal packaging, etc. now that we have no leak batteries, it’s even better.

If the battery is managed properly there should be minimal degradation with the hell hole area.

Curious: can the targa top be stored with the battery being moved into the rear?

Adding weight to the back only degrades handling.
I recommend not

..but you're also building an EG33 (specifically) Suby powered car if Im not mistaken - where/how will you be routing the air box/filter ? That's the basis for me thinking about putting a battery in the trunk.


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I put mine in the trunk years ago.

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I wasn’t thinking about that car but you have a point. My answer to that is it will go wherever Scott decides. He knows WAY more than me on Suby conversions.

Following Jack Olsen’s lead from Pelican, at least one of my cars will get the 2.5lb battery tender lipo battery. It’s only a couple inches square. Jack uses it to start his 3.6 engine. Maybe not the Suby car but it’s on the list for my 912 conversion.

Well I already have the stock EG33 air intake system and would just as soon use it than have to buy a whole new set up.. and I've seen them routed over to the battery's stock location, so.. I do recall that someone ( @BIGKAT_83 maybe?) had the battery on their EG33 car over where the 914 relay board goes, but to me the extra weight on the left side where the driver's also at, is as much a negative as putting it in the trunk on the right side. I mean that's a wash, no? All this and I know that in the grand scheme of things there's NOT GONNA BE MUCH noticable difference with a street car anyway - but since I have options, might as well obsess over it So, keep the various POVs coming.


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+1 No. For the reasons mentioned as well as with new batter tech allowing for a SMALL/LIGHT footprint mean there is no reason to encroach on the the space in either trunk.

I was looking at the trunk location again (but on a car with with suspension and wheels installed), and technically, the weight of the battery would not be behind the axle line from what I can see.. more over the top of it with a slight bias toward the engine compartment (if mounted up against the wall). Just Sayin'


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I disagree. Placement of the battery is a big deal even on modern production vehicles.

Obviously depends on the sensitivity of the driver. Some people can easily tell the difference, others just can't either due to driving style (i.e. straight line driving most of the time) and/or lack of sensitivity of their inner ear.

That dang physics thing again . . . . .

OK, well then where can I put the battery then? Where besides the stock area? What about a small(er) battery moved down to sit across & atop where the actual hell-hole is? ..I thought of that before, but then the angle of the firewall wouldn't allow for a flush placement at all - still it may work I suppose.


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