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roundtwo
Hello
Can someone kindly tell me … see pic.
1. The bolts that hold this together, should I use lock tight on them. The heads arent drilled to wire fasten for back up safety.
2. torque spec for the bolts. ? Assuming it’s the same on both ends of the axle ?

Close to finishing up my caliper/ brake/ rotor/ bearing install on all four corners Click to view attachment
76-914
You can drill them out while its convenient or order them drilled out. Otherwise you will need to recheck them occasionally. 38 ft lb's IIRC. No lock tite but new schoor washers each time if your not safety wiring them beerchug.gif


Click to view attachment
roblav1
Never ever put locktite on those! Use new Schoor washers.
roundtwo
Thanks for all your help. I had no idea what those washers were called learn some thing useful every day.

I think it’s super slick to wire them.

Off to the auto parts store AGAIN for the correct washers. Torque wrench ready.

Cheers
Mikey914
The Schoor washers are a good way to go. We do sell the bolts premachined, you don't have to do every one to safety wire them.

But at .20 each the washer is a cheap way to go, just don;t try to reuse them.

https://914rubber.com/schnorr-washer-for-8mm-1
Bartlett 914
I do agree on the proper washers. I have discovered that the biggest problem with the CV's working loose is a distorted output flange at the transmission. Once a CV has worked loose, the flange gets a little distorted. It is like the threaded portion is pulled out creating a high spot at the threads. The flange must me perfectly flat. If is isn't, no matter what washers you use it will work loose again. I use a lathe and make a very small cleanup cut.
brant
I doubt the parts store carries those Schnorr washers.

always new.
even if you loosen one and re-tighten it.

If its a brand new correct schnorr washer it will hold.
I think I use 31ft. lbs.

the reused washers will always come loose and need a re-torque

the new washer will not come loose.

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