Hi all,

I rebuilt my 1973 2.0 motor, which was already a 2056. I put new 2.0 heads on it with 1.7 rockers. Was machined for spirited driving.
I put the bigger 914 cork gaskets on as well.
They still leak. The straps for each valve cover are tight.
Any advice, tips and or tricks to end this valve cover leaking madness?
Not sure it increase pressure due to no vacuum port on the new heads has anything to do with it, but either way, I gotta figure out how to make it stop.
Please advise.

Thanks,

Gary

Valve covers not flat maybe? Honestly haven't had leaky valve cover issues on a 914-4 before. They usually seal up nicely especially after a few heat cycles. Hardest part is when they are removed, ensuring all the baked on cork bits are cleaned off.

I had one with a slight bend that would not stop leaking. I replaced it with one from a spare engine and no more leaks. Also, make sure the crankcase vented adequately. Otherwise I've found glueing the cork to the valve cover and putting some grease on the cork where it seals to the head works the best. The grease helps the cork slide on the head without coming loose while you adjust the bale.

Hi Michael,

I purchased the air cleaner and oil filler for a 1975 model.
This was supposed to help with ventilation since the new heads are not vented.
It's quite a large line coming off the oil filler (i think 20mm) which ties into the air cleaner cover.

When you say the crankcase vented adequately, could you please elaborate on that?

Many thanks,

Gary

Hi root,


I am leaning toward purchasing some new valve covers. I think that is a good call.

Thanks for the input.

Gary

914Rubber used to have neoprene gaskets but I do not see them on website.

Try putting a THIN coating or RTV on the cork where it goes into the valve cover.
Do not glue the cork to the heads!

This should help keep the cork in place while you seat the heads, and remove one surface to leak.

Also, once the cork is RTVed into place you will be able to remove the valve covers the next time you do your valves and not have to replace the cork.

My cork has been in place for years at this point, though valve adjustments each spring. No leaks.

Also, there is an old wives tale about the "VW" on the valve cover needs to be upside down. I do it this way too - no idea if its true or not - but it works.

The downside of this - if you ever remove the cork, get ready to CLEAN. This actually could be part of your problem. The channel in the valve cover needs to be spotless clean when the cork goes in. Any dirt (or hardened RTV) will lift the cork and give oil a place to get pushed out.

Zach

Cinch-a-gasket. Applied to the cover only. Are you installing them with the VW (on the inside) emblem upside down?

We have made the cork version slightly thicker to allow for the bale to be more relaxed. If the surface is flat they should be your best option. They cost more to make, and most go cheap to the VR brand. Yes they are inexpensive, but the bale is a known issue.

This is the one you want - https://914rubber.com/cork-valve-cover-gasket

Also we do have some of the high temp silicone ones, just not on the website. There was an issue with high RPM (racing) that they were being sucked in enough to create a leak so we pulled them to offer with our improved valve covers, that are not ready yet.

FWIW, the Formula V guys - with a big reputation for oiling the track from the VCs - ensure they have good straight VCs, glue/silicon/what's-your-fav of the gasket to the VC, and then ensure a good taught bail wire.

The only oil I've ever put on the track came from the tubes to vent the heads (and/or vents on the VCs themselves). This is why I had those head ports welded and I use good stock non-vented VCs, using 914 Rubber cork gaskets and the FV process (I like Permatex 85420 or Hondabond/ToyotaBond; let it set for a half hour). So far, so good...

https://newsite.hamheads.com/2016/12/10/typ...tests-analysis/

Thank you everyone for the great input.

I did geek out and read the tech article link provided by GregAmy. Thank you!

My VW logo is upside down, which is stamped on the outside. What I don't know if it is upside down on the inside. Hopefully inside and out are the same.
I am ordering up another set of 914 rubber gaskets, that's what are currently on them now.
Initially when I installed them they didn't leak but after putting about 10 miles on the car the valve covers started to leak.
Certainly not a quality issue of the cork gaskets, but user error on the install.
The bail wire lock thing for the cover is extremely tight. Not sure how I could tighten that up even more.

Stay tuned and thanks again,

Gary

A 20mm hose to the air cleaner should be adequate for ventilation.

Back in the day, all the cool kids (at least in the DFW area) used 3M weatherstrip adhesive to glue the cork to the covers. Fond memories of that green snot. Seemed to work.

I’ve kept a mental note about a VC mod that I saw some time back (and haven’t gotten around to needing to do yet) - where someone took and spot welded a short “wall” around the inside perimeter of the VC channel. Seemed like it would effectively lock the gasket into place and cheap to do. It’s pretty self explanatory but does anyone have a link to this mod, I’ve lost it long ago?


.

I have had two types of leaks
Bent Rocker Cover
Silicone gaskets wouldn't fit
The last batch of silicone gaskets I purchased didn't fit correctly as they were just a bit to big, probably why they suck in. Others that I purchased a while back have never leaked.
Gluing cork to the cover is probably the best as long as the cover is straight.

Here’s the VC modification that I was talking about (from pelican parts article):
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...alve_covers.htm


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