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cal914
I have a 914-6 conversion the rubber that goes from the engine bay onto the tinware keeps coming of from the tinware on both sides and let's the the engine get real hot, the only way to stop the engine getting hot is to put gaffer tape around the tinware and the body of the car, is there anything I can do or fit to keep the rubber rapped around the lip of the tinware
Thanks Brian
Steve
Is it factory rubber or aftermarket? I had the same issue
cal914
QUOTE(Steve @ Aug 13 2021, 02:56 PM) *

Is it factory rubber or aftermarket? I had the same issue

It's 914 rubber, don't think Porsche make it anymore
mb911
My guesses here are non factory sheet metal, non factory engine mount specs regarding height.

The 914 rubber seals are pretty nice.
Steve
QUOTE(mb911 @ Aug 14 2021, 04:44 AM) *

My guesses here are non factory sheet metal, non factory engine mount specs regarding height.

The 914 rubber seals are pretty nice.

My factory stuff was fine, but had a couple of tears in it. I have factory six sheet metal. I installed 914 rubber stuff which is thicker and harder and doesn’t stay on the lips of the sheet metal. I will be revisiting this, when I pull my motor in the fall.
mb911
QUOTE(Steve @ Aug 14 2021, 05:37 AM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ Aug 14 2021, 04:44 AM) *

My guesses here are non factory sheet metal, non factory engine mount specs regarding height.

The 914 rubber seals are pretty nice.

My factory stuff was fine, but had a couple of tears in it. I have factory six sheet metal. I installed 914 rubber stuff which is thicker and harder and doesn’t stay on the lips of the sheet metal. I will be revisiting this, when I pull my motor in the fall.



That's interesting and good to know.
Mikey914
Guys, the 914 engine rubber is identical to what the OEM made. If it’s larger than what you have it’s because rubber shrinks over time. It also hardens. Ours is made to a 75 durometer, my testing from older factory pieces was that they were typically 80 duro +. As it hardens it becomes more brittle. From all of the rubber parts I’ve tested, it looks like they were pretty much all of this consistently ( except the foam seals like on the outer doors)

If the rubber is fully seated in the body track it is difficult to remove even with the engine out.

I’m interested to see what the issue could be, can you post up any pics?


Also it is possible that the body track has some damage (usually from rust). I know we have had to replace a few.

cal914
QUOTE(Mikey914 @ Aug 14 2021, 08:51 AM) *

Guys, the 914 engine rubber is identical to what the OEM made. If it’s larger than what you have it’s because rubber shrinks over time. It also hardens. Ours is made to a 75 durometer, my testing from older factory pieces was that they were typically 80 duro +. As it hardens it becomes more brittle. From all of the rubber parts I’ve tested, it looks like they were pretty much all of this consistently ( except the foam seals like on the outer doors)

If the rubber is fully seated in the body track it is difficult to remove even with the engine out.

I’m interested to see what the issue could be, can you post up any pics?


Also it is possible that the body track has some damage (usually from rust). I know we have had to replace a few.

It's not the body track that's the problem it's when it lips over the tinwear it won't stay on, I'm having to use gaffer tape at the top to stop the not air from rising, tried an original Porsche rubber from my friends car and it stayed on, I probably got unlucky with mine, might have to order another set and see if they fit any better ☹️
Steve
No work was done on my car. I switched out the rubber, when I pulled the motor to install the 916 trans. Maybe I installed it wrong? I will revisit it and take some pictures. Thanks for the help!!
porschetub
QUOTE(mb911 @ Aug 14 2021, 11:44 PM) *

My guesses here are non factory sheet metal, non factory engine mount specs regarding height.

The 914 rubber seals are pretty nice.

agree.gif something is off here and I'am thinking engine height ,my motor was too low and I had that issue as the lip of the rubber was not lining up ,I don't recall the engine overheating however so the OP may have other issues.
I unbolted the factory replica engine mount and cut and welded it the correct the height issue,my rubber seals then fitted really well...almost too well as I found I had to remove the left side tin piece to refit the motor.
914_teener
It is possible to put the rubber in upside down and not know it.

Ask me how I know......make sure it is put in the right way.

bbrock
I'm having the same issue as OP. The seals hook onto the lip of the tin nicely but after a drive they pop off and leave gaps. No overheating issues but lots of dust from our dirt road getting into the engine bay. I tried gluing it with 3M Weatherstrip adhesive but it didn't last long. I now have clothespin style clamps holding it on until I find a better solution. I do not have the front corners of the seals hog ringed and suspect that will help, but doubt it will cure the whole problem. I'm thinking of crimping the seals to the tin lips with hog rings or similar. Interested to see where this thread goes popcorn[1].gif
Mikey914
These are literally the identical profile. The only difference is that the older rubber will be slightly smaller and harder with age.

I'd be interested to see a side shot of the one you are having issues with and the one that works. I'm thinking that the issue may be that the the rubber isn't hooking under the lip as there may need to be some adjustment.

Also you can hog ring the corners like factory did. That may help?

I'm really curious as to what the issue is here.
Steve
Thanks for the help!!
Hard to see in the engine compartment due to the 3.2 complexity. The motor was reinstalled by Patrick Motorsports last October to replace the cam chain housing rubber. It’s still coming loose in the same spots. I did hog tie the corners. The old rubber filled the gaps and did not come off.
This is a picture of the front of the motor. You can see the gap in the middle.
The rubber seems harder than stock and less pliable. I do not have the old rubber to compare it to.
Click to view attachment
Here is the drivers side.
Click to view attachment
cal914
QUOTE(Mikey914 @ Aug 16 2021, 08:04 AM) *

These are literally the identical profile. The only difference is that the older rubber will be slightly smaller and harder with age.

I'd be interested to see a side shot of the one you are having issues with and the one that works. I'm thinking that the issue may be that the the rubber isn't hooking under the lip as there may need to be some adjustment.

Also you can hog ring the corners like factory did. That may help?

I'm really curious as to what the issue is here.

It lips under we'll enough but doesn't stay in place, what did they use to “hog ring” the corners with, as for the guy who thinks I have a larger issue with my engine for running hot that's not correct, when the rubbers both sides come away the hot air from below comes up and raises the temp, when I put gaffer tape around the edge across the tinwear and the body the gauge stays at a constant quarter
Steve
QUOTE(cal914 @ Aug 16 2021, 12:59 PM) *

QUOTE(Mikey914 @ Aug 16 2021, 08:04 AM) *

These are literally the identical profile. The only difference is that the older rubber will be slightly smaller and harder with age.

I'd be interested to see a side shot of the one you are having issues with and the one that works. I'm thinking that the issue may be that the the rubber isn't hooking under the lip as there may need to be some adjustment.

Also you can hog ring the corners like factory did. That may help?

I'm really curious as to what the issue is here.

It lips under we'll enough but doesn't stay in place, what did they use to “hog ring” the corners with, as for the guy who thinks I have a larger issue with my engine for running hot that's not correct, when the rubbers both sides come away the hot air from below comes up and raises the temp, when I put gaffer tape around the edge across the tinwear and the body the gauge stays at a constant quarter

The hog ring pliers and clips are similar to this.
Hog Ring Pliers Kit with 600 Pack of Hog Rings in 1/2" and 3/4" Galvanized Steel - Perfect for Cages, Automotive Upholstery, Furniture, Bungee Cords, and More! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LK22K4W/ref=cm...=UTF8&psc=1
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