I have seen this discussed before but am unable to find the thread. If someone can point me in the direction, that would be great. Our specimen has light rusting on the exterior surfaces of the drivers side and almost none on the passengers side. I assume a borescope is the tool required and hoping the interior surfaces are "not too" compromised what is the treatment?

Thanks

Lift up carpet on longs inside. Rubber glued plug in about the middle. Peal back and inspect.

You can buy a borescope style camera that connects to your phone or laptop by bluetooth for ~$25 on amazon. They work surprisingly well and even have a little led light on the end of the camera.

Rather unusual to have more damage on the driver side rather than passenger side, especially so here in salty roads country? Be sure to scope that side well.

It's a Cali car with EGR and CAT indicator dash lights. Overall she is decent, but after removing the rockers there is some rusting. The exposed areas are easily treatable, I am more concerned with the interior surfaces. I will be reporting with this information in a few days. Assuming it's not too bad, what is the recommended action?

The car previously had air conditioning installed with several holes ( 1" +/-) drilled for the lines and I will be plugging these. I poked a 2 1/2" hole in the lower side of each side today for inspecting and saw minor surface rusting along the interior portion of the lower seam. I am thinking some sort of :rust treatment" solution applied with a wand device. Eastwood?

I use Eastwood Internal Frame Coating followed with 3M Cavity Wax Plus. My hope is that the Eastwood coating will do a good job of neutralizing/encapsulating any rust but I have been unable to find ANY data on long term protection. I've had good experience with cavity wax which seems to be more popular in Europe than in the States, so I apply that as a belt and suspenders kind of approach. If I were going to use only one or the other, I'd go with the wax only because I have more direct experience with it and know that it builds a nice waxy film over the surface to seal air out. My only concern with the Eastwood product is that it might wind up acting more like a coat of paint over rust over the long term and allow oxidation to continue if the coating dries and cracks over time.

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This is the worst of it

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It's a Cali car and a good one at that

Looks good from here.

I might be inclined to spray some ospho inside the longs, being careful of the heater tubes, and then spray rust cap or some other encapsulator paint to the spots I could get to. Beyond that I'd just wire-wheel the surface rust off of the outside of the longs, cover with primer and paint and call it good.

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Oh yes! I missed that step in my earlier description. My longs were both opened for repair so they got cleaned to bare metal and epoxy primer before closing back up followed by the Eastwood and wax treatment described above. For all other cavities that I could not open, I started with Ospho then flushed with water, blew out with compressed air, and ran a heat gun over to bake out any water left in the seams. THEN I treated as above.

Brent, Thank you for the reply and I have gone through your thread several times and BTW: great restoration. Are you still running twin Webers?
Did your restoration include new longs?

Thanks. Still running the Webers for now but will most likely be installing Microsquirt over the winter.

Outer longs were replaced with new on both sides and extensive repair of the inners also. Mine was nothing like the solid tub you have now.

Thanks, The Palma Green example came from the Washington DC area about a month ago. A fellow 914 World member offered to inspect the car and sent several pics. Priceless!! Sure, the new car has some issues but overall I am having a ball. Given the rusting at the passenger side jack point and some rusting the hell hole, I may do some more exploration. Our Marathon Blue rust bucket will come to life soon, most of the metal work has been completed and a 2.7 is in the que.

Are you unhappy with the carbs? Of course almost any FI system is far more accurate than any carb setup, but is it worth it?

Unhappy isn't quite the right word but more facing the reality of where I live, limitations of carbs, and how that will affect my enjoyment of the car. When I bought these carbs, I lived where I could drive nearly a full day in any direction and gain or loose only about 1,000 ft. of elevation. Now I live where a day's pleasure drive can easily take me through 7,000 feet of elevation change where carbs are going to spend a lot of time running at sub-optimal performance and efficiency. Closely tied to my decision is the ability to integrate a full electronic ignition into the system.

I need to update my build thread on latest happenings, but a lot of my decision has to do with thinking long term to minimize the amount of time spent with my head in the engine bay. I really like the "set it and forget it" reliability of modern fuel and ignition management. I'd rather make the investment now to enjoy that through the time I have left with this car.

I cannot argue with any of the facts. In short, I may be interested in your carb setup in the future if you decide to part with it.

Cool. I'm exploring using the Webers as ITBs which would save money, look cool, and let me keep the custom air cleaner. The alternative is to restore my OE throttle body and plenum and go with a more traditional install. Pros and cons to consider and will let you know when I decide.

Yes, your custom air cleaner does rock!

Keep your thread going if you can, many of us enjoy