Full Version: engine lid tortion springs
anyone have any good tips for removing these??
Have someone else do it. 
Removing them is easy...
But if your going to attempt to re-assemble your either going
to hurt yourself or worse -
When I replaced the plastic rollers on my '73 with aluminum I used a HUGE screwdriver for leverage. It slipped & I smacked my thumb so hard it went immediately NUMB, then blood, then Major Pain.
----------
The next day I made a tool out 3/8" s/steel thick wall tubing. Used it as the leverage bar.
Worked gud -
Good Luck.
But if your going to attempt to re-assemble your either going
to hurt yourself or worse -
When I replaced the plastic rollers on my '73 with aluminum I used a HUGE screwdriver for leverage. It slipped & I smacked my thumb so hard it went immediately NUMB, then blood, then Major Pain.
----------
The next day I made a tool out 3/8" s/steel thick wall tubing. Used it as the leverage bar.
Worked gud -
Good Luck.
I think you're confusing engine lid springs with trunk lid springs. The trunk lid springs are bone-breakers. The engine lid springs are much lighter. No help on removal (yet). I was hoping someone would answer substantiatively, as I need to remove both sets soonish.
| QUOTE (lapuwali @ Jul 25 2005, 01:47 PM) |
| I think you're confusing engine lid springs with trunk lid springs. The trunk lid springs are bone-breakers. The engine lid springs are much lighter. No help on removal (yet). I was hoping someone would answer substantiatively, as I need to remove both sets soonish. |
Doohhh!!! Your Right - I was confused. Sorry!
There is a tool for this job. Check both Pel Parts and Perf. Products. I bet they still sell them. The tool hooks over the short end of the torsion bar and allows you to use a "long" wrench (read, breaker bar and a socket) to tension the bar for removal, and to again tension it to reinstall. It allows you to change the roller and pivot easily (becomes a one person job, with no danger of broken fingers or arms.
If you cannot find one anywhere, I will loan you mine.
If you cannot find one anywhere, I will loan you mine.
| QUOTE (flesburg @ Jul 25 2005, 02:49 PM) |
| If you cannot find one anywhere, I will loan you mine. |
Dale, That's very generous, considering Thesey914 is in the U.K.!
All kidding aside, be very careful with the trunk torsion springs. Wear leather work gloves and don't put your hands or fingers under the springs.
Can you post a pic of the tool ?
| QUOTE (jim_hoyland @ Jul 26 2005, 12:27 PM) |
| Can you post a pic of the tool ? |
Oh God, please let me find a picture of mikez quicker than Aaron.
M
Hello:
I guess I did not realize that the inquiry was from GB. But, I am sure he would return it, since on average the english are probably more trustworthy that we'uns
I will take several pictures of the tool over the weekend and post them next week. I am not home this week (trying to make us a buck so we can play with our toys on weekends).
If I had married a rich lady, but then she would probably not let me have any of her money for my toys.
Somebody has to have that tool. It was like $10 in the 80s, and looks like it should be worth 98 cents.
I guess I did not realize that the inquiry was from GB. But, I am sure he would return it, since on average the english are probably more trustworthy that we'uns
I will take several pictures of the tool over the weekend and post them next week. I am not home this week (trying to make us a buck so we can play with our toys on weekends).
If I had married a rich lady, but then she would probably not let me have any of her money for my toys.
Somebody has to have that tool. It was like $10 in the 80s, and looks like it should be worth 98 cents.
| QUOTE ("7" @ Jul 25 2005, 01:38 PM) |
| Removing them is easy... But if your going to attempt to re-assemble your either going to hurt yourself or worse - When I replaced the plastic rollers on my '73 with aluminum I used a HUGE screwdriver for leverage. It slipped & I smacked my thumb so hard it went immediately NUMB, then blood, then Major Pain. ---------- The next day I made a tool out 3/8" s/steel thick wall tubing. Used it as the leverage bar. Worked gud - Good Luck. |
Gary, I gotta get some info on that... I uh... undid one side when I re-welded up my trunk console and can't get it back on.
Hey Dale, that is very generous.... & I would certainly reciprocate the favour!
So its just a case of un-levering the torsion bars and then unbolting the lid itself.....stripping it for painting.
& I would certainly reciprocate the favour!So its just a case of un-levering the torsion bars and then unbolting the lid itself.....stripping it for painting.
Hello:
You need the tool if you are going to reinstall the torsion bars. Many people leave them out or replace them with a pair of air cylinders which in many ways do a better job. If you are not going to reuse them:
Remove the rear trunk lid from its hinges. Cut the torsion bars off with a torch. As you heat them, they will twist and not hurt you. Do not touch them or hold them with your hands. I cut a pair off once with an air powered cutter. At some point it snapped with a heck of a racket, but no damage, to me or anything else. Scared the heck out of me though.
If you are going to reinstal:
Remove the rear trunk lid from its hinges. Use tool and long wrench to add torsion to the bar's short end until you can remove the follower wheel. Keep tension on and wiggle the bar until it clears the stub "axle" which the wheel was on and begin to release tension off the torsion bar, slowly, until the tension is off of the bar. Then do the other side. If you have a helper, have them hold tension on the torsion bar, and remove the pivot bolt for the hinge. This gets it out of the way, and then slowly release tension until all the tension is off of the bar. From then on it is easy.
Reinstall is the reverse of the process.
If you want to borrow the tool, I will need to get shipping information. I will loan it to you with your promise to return, and will only ask that you pay shipping both ways. If you can find the tool, it may cost less than two way shipping.
I will wait for you to send me shipping instructions. On monday I will post some pictures of it for you to look at. Like I said it looks like it should cost $1. I do not want to sell the tool though, because I may need it again someday.
You need the tool if you are going to reinstall the torsion bars. Many people leave them out or replace them with a pair of air cylinders which in many ways do a better job. If you are not going to reuse them:
Remove the rear trunk lid from its hinges. Cut the torsion bars off with a torch. As you heat them, they will twist and not hurt you. Do not touch them or hold them with your hands. I cut a pair off once with an air powered cutter. At some point it snapped with a heck of a racket, but no damage, to me or anything else. Scared the heck out of me though.
If you are going to reinstal:
Remove the rear trunk lid from its hinges. Use tool and long wrench to add torsion to the bar's short end until you can remove the follower wheel. Keep tension on and wiggle the bar until it clears the stub "axle" which the wheel was on and begin to release tension off the torsion bar, slowly, until the tension is off of the bar. Then do the other side. If you have a helper, have them hold tension on the torsion bar, and remove the pivot bolt for the hinge. This gets it out of the way, and then slowly release tension until all the tension is off of the bar. From then on it is easy.
Reinstall is the reverse of the process.
If you want to borrow the tool, I will need to get shipping information. I will loan it to you with your promise to return, and will only ask that you pay shipping both ways. If you can find the tool, it may cost less than two way shipping.
I will wait for you to send me shipping instructions. On monday I will post some pictures of it for you to look at. Like I said it looks like it should cost $1. I do not want to sell the tool though, because I may need it again someday.
This is the second reply that states how to replace the TRUNK springs, not the ENGINE LID springs. While these replies are quite welcome, they're not answering the question asked.
I have never removed the springs, but I do know that they are fully integrated into the engine lid.. Meaning you can remove the engine lid without messing with the springs at all. Once the engine lid is on the ground and upside down it would be much easier to tackle the problem.
Ah, great. so I can just unbolt the lid (engine) and reinstall with out removing springs. Thanks for all the reply.
BTW when I replaced the trunk (or as us brits call it..the boot) lid the torsion bars scared the bejebus out of me when they sprung home.....definitely a bone-breaker
-J
BTW when I replaced the trunk (or as us brits call it..the boot) lid the torsion bars scared the bejebus out of me when they sprung home.....definitely a bone-breaker
-J
Dear thesey914:
I'm sorry, I have not been addressing your question, because I was under the impression you were talking about the rear trunk (boot) lid.
The torsion bars on the engine lid are pretty much relaxed with the engine lid removed. They are under tension with the engine lid closed.
Open the engine lid.
Feel under the hinge mounting points.
The lid is held on with two 6mm? bolts (10mm socket works on them), one on each side.
Remove the bolts while holding the lid with one hand, or have a helper hold it up for you, because it will fall on the engine when you remove the second bolt.
In the center of the torsion bars there is a plastic bracket that holds the bars in place (maybe two brackets).
I think they are held on with phillips head screws.
Place lid upside down on a bench.
Put on a heavy welders glove on and hold down the bars in the middle, and remove the screws.
There is not much tension on the bars, and they will not hurt you, but keep your hands away from the ends of the bars.
Reinstall is in reverse, and not too tough either.
It is the torsion bars for the rear trunk lid that you need to be very carefull with, and need the tool for.
I will still post some pictures of the tool next week.
I'm sorry, I have not been addressing your question, because I was under the impression you were talking about the rear trunk (boot) lid.
The torsion bars on the engine lid are pretty much relaxed with the engine lid removed. They are under tension with the engine lid closed.
Open the engine lid.
Feel under the hinge mounting points.
The lid is held on with two 6mm? bolts (10mm socket works on them), one on each side.
Remove the bolts while holding the lid with one hand, or have a helper hold it up for you, because it will fall on the engine when you remove the second bolt.
In the center of the torsion bars there is a plastic bracket that holds the bars in place (maybe two brackets).
I think they are held on with phillips head screws.
Place lid upside down on a bench.
Put on a heavy welders glove on and hold down the bars in the middle, and remove the screws.
There is not much tension on the bars, and they will not hurt you, but keep your hands away from the ends of the bars.
Reinstall is in reverse, and not too tough either.
It is the torsion bars for the rear trunk lid that you need to be very carefull with, and need the tool for.
I will still post some pictures of the tool next week.
| QUOTE (thesey914 @ Jul 27 2005, 10:37 AM) |
| the trunk (or as us brits call it..the boot) lid the torsion bars scared the bejebus out of me when they sprung home.....definitely a bone-breaker -J |
[QUOTE]
If the trunk is a "boot" what do you call that thing if front?
And what's a Bejebus?
You mean "Baja Bus?"
| QUOTE (Dave Eddy @ Jul 27 2005, 06:14 PM) |
| If the trunk is a "boot" what do you call that thing if front? |
I think it's called a bonnet...
| QUOTE (Headrage @ Jul 27 2005, 05:33 PM) | ||
I think it's called a bonnet... |
Boobies!!
We have two boots (trunks) and a bonnet (engine hood), as far as I know. And we all have boobies, just some more appealing (girls).
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