I was wondering if anyone has had any issues with the new 914Rubber 5pin relays.
I purchased 8 brand new WDG branded 914Rubber Black 5pin relays back in November of last year. I ohm checked 4 of my original OEM Wehrle brand pins between pins 85/86 and 30/87a. I have continuity between pins 30 and 87a and continuity between pins 85 and 86 on the OEM relays I have in front of me. Out of the 4 extras I have 1 has a reading of OL (no continuity) between pins 85 and 86. All 4 914Rubber relays have continuity between 30 and 87a.
Ohm readings are as follows:
4 OEM Relays 69 Ohms to 87.4 Ohms max between pins 85 and 86. All the relays show continuity when I use the continuity beep selection on my DVOM.
3 914Rubber WDG relays no continuity beep between pins 85 and 86 with ohm measurements 118.1, 117.5 and 120. 4 relay OL (Out of limit) between pins 85 and 86.
I will end up pulling out the other WDG relays I installed into the car to test them as well.
The issue I am having is when I plug the new relays into the headlight motor relay sockets, it blows the 16A fuse every time. When I plug the OEM Wehrle 911.615.109.01 relays most likely circa 1974 into the headlight motor relay sockets, the headlights raise and lower with no issues. I am also curious as to the warranty time frame on the relays. I still have all my original relays just in case.

85 and 86 connect to the coil winding. Your numbers look reasonable for all of them. A slight difference in coil resistance isn't going to cause the fuse to open.
The beep function is just an easy audible check for resistance below a nominal value. Some meters use 100 ohms, others use 200 ohms. It's there for times when you can't see the meter while holding the leads in place. Look at the readings, don't worry about whether it beeps.

When the relay is not energized pin 30 connects to pin 87a. You should read 0 ohms 30 to 87a, but open circuit 30 to 87.

When energized 30 connects to 87. You should read 0 ohms 30 to 87, but open circuit 30 to 87a.

Have you checked continuity between terminals when energized? Check for continuity between 87 and 87a. Something may have welded inside the relay due to arcing. Reverse bias diodes help with preventing arcing, but are often left out.

The headlight relays are wired to conduct 30-87a or 30-87 depending on whether energized or not. I expect there may be at least brief continuity between 87 and 87a, essentially telling the motors to open and close simultaneously and opening the fuse.

In a pinch you may be able to swap a faulty relay elsewhere. The J4 horn, J5 fog light, J14 heater, J16 power supply, J17 fuel pump relays conduct only when energized. Terminal 87a is not used.

Our relays are not standard in their construction. We have made some improvements to make them more reliable.

If you have a problem with any of my relays we will replace or refund upon return. They have a 2 year warranty, but should last much longer than that.

Hello Mark....so are your relays essentially as good or better than the stock ones? What do you think is going on with the guys headlight fuse? I bought some of your new ones but haven't tried them yet. My life long tendency is to try to make something better that even isn't broken and I usually make things worse. I am trying to break this habit. I hope your relays won't continue my trend. Thank you and please comment.
Best regards,
gg

Another possibility here. If you have a 73 or later the fuse is a 25A.
Not quite sure what the change was from 72, but it's spec'd at a 25A.

Since your handle is L jet, I suspect this might be your problem

This is the fuse that pops when I turn the headlights on. My 74 1.8L 914 has a production date of 4/74. Is this fuse supposed to be a 25A fuse? Click to view attachment

All of those fuses should be 8A, except #8, #10, #12 which are 16A

https://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/zTN_Elect_FuseIndex.jpg