I am looking at doing up a 2.4 six motor from a 2.2e core that I have... I will be putting a 2.7 crank in it and 40 carbs, e cams... but other than that I am open to ideas... rods, pistons, oil pump, heat exchangers.. whatever... I would love to hear your thoughts on this engine configuration... Horsepower expectancy etc.. I would be happy with 170 hp and driveability. This will not be going into a race car

The Bruce Anderson and Wayne Dempsey books are each good reads with ideas for directions for mods when doing an engine build. Only thing I dislike is it seems people will reference these, especially the Dempsey book, as a bible. Can't dispute it's good, but think it's better to view as a guide. The factory repair manuals are really the bible in my opinion.
Planning a future 2.4 as well, so been researching. The oil bypass mod and 4 rib or newer oil pump make sense as reasonable updates. Not sure what will guarantee you 170hp. I'm planning on using S pistons with E cams. The 2.4E was rated at 165 and that was with the MFI. Unfortunately my engine has carbs, so even with the small compression bump probably be lucky to gain back what is lost from not having the injection.
You'll need to think through your cooling system also. You're right at the threshold of needing a front mounted cooler, especially if you're in a place with heat. I'm now planning for a FMC only and replacing the engine mount cooler with a filter. This was inspired by Ben, Mark and others here sharing their builds and offering recommendations. Many thanks to them for their help with this.
Lots of talk over on Pelican about the poor quality of new Glyco rod bearings. It's not clear if quality issues are still a problem but they were a few years ago. My crank's rod journals had been turned to 0.75, and now bearings are almost impossible to find. If you're looking for a crank, definitely try for a std, std.

Dan

I have a 2.4l case and crank done by Ollies. I tried the Glyco aftermarket bearings and could not get good clearances. Ultimately had crank taken 0.25mm undersize and had to use Porsche OEM crank bearings as recommended by Ollies. Clevite rod bearings as recommended by Ollies. Documented in my build thread.

Glyco aftermarket bearings are different than Porsche OEM and are clearly made in different plant and are marked differently than OEM

I built a 2.4 Mod Solex cammed, 36mm ported, carbed motor. 9.5 compression JE pistons, reconditioned Mahle Biral cylinders, single plug. A really fun 7400 rpm street car motor that fits the spirit of early Porsche goodness. Feels like about 195 hp and a sweet torque band

You did not mention budget, so I am assuming yours is ample, so.....

Consider having the crank modded for improved oiling. I used Marine Crank in LA. Never worry about turning a bearing.

Probably the next biggest concern is whether to twin plug. Adds a fair amount of $ to the build. I run on pump gas no problem but I suspect the extra performance with 10.5 compression would be the cream on top, but I run only the stock oil cooler and am right on the limit of needing a second cooler, another $ trip point. Since you are going E cams (and E heads I assume) my suggestion is that the higher compression and twin plugging not worth it as cams will limit the performance benefit of the higher compression

Stock rods , flow modded stock oil pump and stock valve train will easily support the 7 grand rpm limit commensurate with the E cams

Ultimate performance and engine architecture is all about cam choice. Figure 180 hp.

Are you building or having someone do it? Picking suppliers is as important as any aspect of this. EBS was great to work with and can do a lot more than just supply parts

The plan is to sort out all the parts this winter, build the motor over next summer and put it into the car next winter. I hope to expense the parts and machining over over the winter so my wife is not to horrified by the costs. I would like to to make a budget for it over the next few weeks.
Yes I will be putting in a oil cooler up front.
I am in BC so I am not sure where is the best place to get the crank and case machining done. I have a guy to do the head work, I would like to use Ollies but shipping might be costly.
I will be replacing the pistons with JEs and using Don for all my small parts.
I have not sourced a four rib pump yet, or determined if I can use the old pump.
I am not sure if it is necessary to shuffle pin the crank as I don't plan on getting rpm past 7000 before the cams run out of steam. ...But IF I miss a shift. .
I will be having a local guy assemble it and re-jet the carbs after getting all the machining done.
I will get a std/std crank
I will plan on a single plug motor and will be using 94 Chevron gas.

A 2.2E case is weaker than the 2.7 and later 2.4 cases (7R). At least you have an IMS bearing and piston squirters. I'd limit the HP on that case to about 170 or so, but that fits fine with single plug and not having to run an external cooler. I highly recommend the Solex cam over the E cam, especially at 2.4L or above. And no cast iron liners at that level HP. Why not simply build a 2.2 Solex? Just keep what you have but add Solex cams. You'll be right at 170 HP and have a fun engine.

The reason why I have opted to go with the 2.4/2.7 crank is so I get a little more torque.
You are recommending I change the jugs? I was hoping the original jugs would be sufficient...

Steve

I’ve told this story before. Way back around 1986 when our 73 MFI 911T needed a rebuild, I used 2.4 S Mahle pistons and cylinder and E cams and E MFI. I left the ports stock and it made great power and torque. With the twin pipe muffler, it would pull hard to 7300 and I always felt it made at least 170 hp.

That being said, get the best 2.4 or 2.7 crank and rods that you can find, get a set of 85mm JE pistons in around 9.5/1 compression and bore your biral cylinders to fit and bolt it all together. If you have the 2.2 MFI, you could probably run it with some tuning.

Charlie

I have had thee different engines in my 914 in the last couple years. Below is a dyno of two. The red is a 2.4 MFI engine with S pistons and E cams and E port sizes. E cams were used to be compatible with the MFI. There are better cams than E, I would use mod solex or mod S if not using MFI.
Second engine is 2.7 with 8.5-1 RS pistons, Mod S cams and weber 40 carbs. Ports were 36I 35E. This was a really fun engine in a 914. With this engine the 914 was as fast as my 964 that has 993SS cams, SW chip paired with headers and free flow muffler. Only problem with 2.7 is that it needed a front cooler. I could only drive the car when it was cool or it would get too hot.

Ignore breakup on 2.4 run above 6K. Was having ignition issues on this run but E Cams were done by 6500 RPM anyway. Best run with out ignition issues was 145HP at 6300.

I now have another 2.4 with 9.5-1 pistons, E cams, 36I 35E ports and Zenith carbs. I have not dynoed that yet. Went back to 2.4 as I plan to sell car and with 2.4 I did not need a front cooler to keep engine temps in check.

Click to view attachment

john

Is that whp?
Amazing the area under the curve difference.
I’m probably going JE on my 2.7 so I can get the c:r closer to 9.3/9.5 area with the modS cam.

That's gotta be WHP. Like others are saying here, my favorite engine I built was a 2.7RS, but with Webers. It had a bit more port flow work done. I ran it in a 1972 911T coupe without a front cooler, and it never overheated. That won't work in a 914 without a front cooler.

The 2.2S I had was a screamer, and I believe 180 HP at the crank as per factory.

Adding a front cooler to a 914 is a lot of effort and money. I did it on a 993 conversion and my present Carrera 3.0 (9.5:1, mod S cams). If you simply add Solex cams to your engine, it's the quickest, easiest, cheapest way to get 50% more HP than a factory 6. The Solex cam is closer to an S than an E. A great street cam.

Basically what Charlie said on pistons/cylinders. I would talk with Dougherty cams. He can tell you definitively what the difference is performance wise between E cams and ports and Mod Solex (DC30) with 36/35 ports. My guess is the torque is about the same but the DC30 bump in hp/rpm is significant. I can loaf my car around all day long below 3000 rpm in 3rd and 4th with good clean torque but when you want a rush that S like kick rolling through 5500 rpm and mounting right through to 7400 rpm is sublime!

I too had ignition break up issues trying to make my old distributor and points work. Stuck in a Crane optical sensor kit and that works great. I keep my timing back about 3 degrees from max (about 28 BTDC if I recall correctly) and my stock cooler seems fine.

Get the JE pistons through EBS and they will take care of boring your Biral cylinders.

I stayed with the 2.2E long block I purchased five years ago. Came with S pistons, E heads. Also went with Mod-Solex DC30 cams, 40 PMOs and Ben's sport muffler. This engine is a hoot to drive, can't believe the power from 5 to 7000. Best, MarkClick to view attachment

Oh yea …. Take the time to balance it all as close to zero as possible and it will be turbine smooth !

My cases are 4R/5R if IRC . No shuffle pins. One weekend of track time, the rest all street -no problems.