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Literati914
I’m sure this has been discussed before but I can not find any threads on it, much less a diagram biggrin.gif ….anyone have some pretty solid measurements for where the floor-mounted brackets (that hold the actual seat hinge) are to be placed/welded to the floor. General pics can be open to interpretation. Anyone?


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randyt914
I can take pics of my 92...build date 12/71..my seats are out and I will take a fe pics with a tape measure ...(in the am california time)
mate914
Slide the seat bracket off of your seat. Mount the hinge and place in car. Tach weld then finished.
Matt flag.gif
Superhawk996
QUOTE(Literati914 @ Oct 30 2021, 12:15 AM) *

….anyone have some pretty solid measurements for where the floor-mounted brackets (that hold the actual seat hinge) are to be placed/welded to the floor.


I can measure for you but let me suggest this.

Don't count on measurements. Too much variance in chassis, seat frames, and the position of the ratchet combs.

When I did buy my floorpan, the brackets were already on the floor pan. However, in the end you can't be exactly certain where the floor pan will "land" w.r.t to the rest of the sheet metal.

I welded the actual hinges on AFTER the floor pan was positioned. The hinge brackets that go to the floorpan only need to be approximate. You can determine where this approximate location is with the bottom of the seat bracket.

I determined where the actual hinges needed to be by trial fitting the seat bracets with the ratchet combs in place as Mate914 states. There is a bit of spring deflection for the seat angle adjustment lever that also comes into play as the whole thing was trial fitted.

Tacked hinges in place -- then refitted the seat brackets again to ensure they were correct.

Then final welded hinges.

Will mesure for you if you still wish but what worked on my car may not work on yours. Mock up usually better than measurements.
bbrock
agree.gif Agree with both previous posts. Hinge placement is tricky and I botched mine. I suggest mounting the toothed tilt adjuster brackets in the floor cross members and then following @mate914 's procedure making sure the dog on the tilt adjustment lever fully engages the toothed bracket in all positions.

I got my hinges about 3/8" too far back on one side and the seat would pop out of the bracket if in the highest tilt position which is where it is most comfortable for me.
914werke
Adam at RD did a pretty good video check it out
Literati914
All great advice, as usual, thanks guys!


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autopro
I did like everyone else said. I just used sheet metal screws to hold the brackets in place and I made sure that everything worked well. I don't have a picture but I also mounted the seats to the track and verified everything was working ok before welding.

Click to view attachment
Literati914
Thanks again guys!

I came back to this to report on my experience… on my drivers side, I did like was suggested and mounted the floor pieces to the track and tacked ‘em to the floor that way. Today I went out to do the passengers side and I decided to take a bunch of parts out of my other project 914 (using as a storage unit at the moment) and measured the placement from the center crossmember to the (center of the hinge pin) - both of those items specifically are key, do not measure from firewall..or to the front/rear of floor brackets as there can be variations to where the hinge was welded on. So I got 10 & 7/8” to 15/16” for the measurements in the parts car. But I was using a ruler which has a lead of almost 1/8” at each end - so accounting for that, the measurement would be 11”. Then I went to my current project and measured the distance on the drivers side brackets that I welded the day before - where no measurements were used. And sure enough, I’d gotten them installed at the 11” mark (accounting for the extra length of a typical hand held ruler). So to review, I believe that if measuring to the center of the hinge pin from the crossmember wall you’d be good at 11” (or 10.7/8” - 10.15/16” on a ruler). Of course ymmv. Thanks again guys.
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