Since I have the engine out to replace various old components... should I use this time to also replace the original oil pump with one of those high output oil pumps etc??? Any recommendations and where to get? Thanks.

What are you replacing? If you have good oil pressure and all is well, I'd leave it alone. Or just pull it for inspection first. The type iv store and aircooled.net are good resources.

If there's no apparent or suspected issue there's really no reason to switch. People typically swap to a type 1 pump during an engine rebuild because they are cheaper and more readily available than type 4 pump. At least the pre-modified 30 mm are readily available - I couldn't find a pre-modified 26 mm when I was looking a few months back.

There has been lots of debate in the past about the advantages and disadvantages of the different pumps / sizes in terms of flow, oil pressure, cooling, etc. I gather than on a stock engine a serviceable type 4 is just fine.

I'd pull it and inspect for wear. The 2 pumps I had were badly worn, so a type 1 replacement was very cheap insurance for insuring oil pressure.

Chris Foley's investigations into the oil pump relief valve imply that the stock pumps are adequate for the job, but the relief valve itself likely makes for issues:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=236133

Personally, I'd focus on replacing the valve assembly with Chris' solution, rather than worrying about the pump:

http://www.tangerineracing.com/oilpressurerelief.htm

As long as the pump housing and cover are not scored then the stock pump should be adequate. - GA

I'm tempted to go with Chris' remote oil cooler solution at some point. Based on his advice I'm pretty sure at lot of my hot oil is bypassing my remote cooler

But cooler weather is here and for now I don't have to worry about it

I installed both the relief valve and the remote cooler; stuck the latter up under the right rear, with the fan. I'm even controlling the fan relay via the Microsquirt (I have a separate oil temp sensor in the cooler return line)...Not one cooling problem all summer. Ran around 210-215 max.

We discussed this back in 2020? in your oil cooler thread, but my original problem was really bad, like running into the red on the stock gauge. I suggest that a lot of it was from some unknown issues I was having with the engine, whikch became less an issue when I had another longblock built over the winter.

But for $100 and (maybe) 15 minutes' work you can install Chris' valve and know for sure it's right.

Oil cooler/seals, front and rear main seals, clutch & flywheel, push rod seals .... and the list keeps growing

Oil pressure seems alright, but thinking of adding an oil pressure sending unit to a new VDO gauge, instead of just relying on idiot light,

thanks, I think I might too go the route of the relief valve. I'm just at this stage of thinking "well while the engine is out...lets replace this..." probably end up replacing everything if I don't come to my senses...

thanks, I think I might too go the route of the relief valve. I'm just at this stage of thinking "well while the engine is out...lets replace this..." probably end up replacing everything if I don't come to my senses...