So.... Bought a 123injection distributor from tangerineracing and installed it nice and easy. Started it up to set the timing and I hear this weird slurping noise.

That nearly irreplaceable hose that goes from the block to the remote oil pressure sender had finally given out.

Chris is trying to find the appropriate fittings to replace it.


Also, chasing a vacuum leak around the intake on cylinder 4. Just replaced the spacer a month ago and really was careful with the blue gas safe sealer etc. The injector seals are all new. Spraying very carefully it really does appear to be the area near the spacer. Any tips and tricks?


Nobody would ever suspect a 914 is behind that door...

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Yup, air cooled VW/Porsche owner lives there. All his time is spent on the car, no time to paint garage door. Just like me. Best, Mark

Look carefully at the injector to see if it is slightly off angle. It's easy to do when replacing seals. Ask me how I know!

I don't know what you are talking about. I bought my garage door from Beverly Hills Car Club, it just has light surface rust. It only fell off the garage a few times.

I will start there. Always has to be the side that is a pain to get at.

Emery,
Can you add some photos as you work through this so the rest of us can reference when the inevitable happens?

I just about blew root beer out of my nose when I read that! Good one!

Pulled the injector and added a little grease to the seal but no luck. It seems to be right around the bolt on the outside. It's just the smallest little leak, but I just have to fix it.

I have a spare spacer so as soon as I get a chance I will try that.

I think that hose to the remote oil pressure sender was already leaking a little before the big blow out. It pissed me off but now that I think about it, much better in the driveway while I am paying attention then out on the interstate.

If it does go, don't buy any of that BS online about 1/8 npt fitting. It does not fit unless you tap it. It is a tapered M10x1.0 and those are like hens teeth.
If Chris can't find anything I am going to try an ebay adapter and a copper 1/8 npt kit. The quick side of the road fix is plumbers tape and a perfectly sized bolt screwed into the fitting where the broken hose would be and then reinstall that in the block.

Anyone know why the vdo sender isnt just screwed into the block? Looks like there is enough room in the tin. No chance of hose failure.

The OEM sender is screwed directly into the block. The metric to NPT adapters on eBay work fine. Running them on my car now.

But the dual sender can't handle the heat or something? Man it would be nice to just screw that straight in.

Isn't distributor interference the biggest issue with direct mounting the VDO sender? They make one with the M10 tapered thread if I'm not mistaken.

I just found two different tapered metric male to npt female adapters on Amazon that will thread into the crankcase and allow hoses with 1/8"npt ends to install easily. One is stainless and the other is brass.

I was pretty sure the dual VDO sending units don't fit through the tin and required cutting. The more preferred solution was to put an extension from block through the tin. AA sold a stainless steel hose that would thread right in and served the dual purpose of grounding to the block. Other people used paintball gun hoses, but I think those required separate ground. Downside to this approach is now you have this additional hose and sending unit flopping around on top of everything else, unless you can find a way to mount it neatly.

I had one of the AA SS hose adapters but for some reason I never actually installed an OP sending unit or gauge. Still want to do that at some point.

Since I now have the 123 distributor without the big advance/retard tank I wonder about just putting it straight into the block. The only worry there is no way to really get any torque on it. My sender is M10 and tapered (and has two different adapters before it gets to the old broken hose).

Could you post a link to a tapered m10 on ebay? I have been looking at several but it is hard to tell which is actually tapered.

stainless adapter

brass adapter

Thanks, I was looking at that stainless one. That brass doesn't look right, maybe a stock photo?

hurts to buy a damn tiny piece like that for 22 dollars shipped.... Thats about the cost of the whole damn hose.


Put the new spacer in a moment ago. Noticed that the tin around the #3 port is pretty darn close. I wonder if it is getting pinched by the spacer leading to a leak. I should have cut it away a little but just couldn't be bothered....

I also checked the diameter of the hole in the tin for the gauge, not nearly enough room to put it straight into the block.

I think the tin clears the head, even though the edge of the spacer hits it.

The brass fitting shown isn't the correct picture. They also list one with a coarse metric (m10 x 1.5) thread and it uses the same picture.

I figured, went ahead and got that brass version.

Still have the leak right above the outside bolt on #3 after doing the best sealing job ever on that new spacer. I really think that tin is the issue. Everything else looks great.

Chris, any luck on the fitting? I assume I should just try for the adapter and the copper vdo thing...

I found my box of parts. I have enough fittings to assemble one hose and include dash 3 to 1/8npt adapter fittings at both ends.
The only dash 3 to M10x1.0 fittings I found available are for brake flare connection. They don't have tapered threads and never fully tighten in the tapered hole of the crankcase.

Ok, I ordered that brass one. I will just try to hard line it with the copper vdo kit.

I am working on a date at the dyno as well. Could be this week. Due to the interrelated movements on the MPS, do you have any suggestions on order of operations? Should we set partial load then idle then WOT? Hard to wrap the brain around how changing the outer screw will affect the location of the inner and the stopping point of the stop screw and how all of that will cascade into AFR changes.

I would see if I can do all the necessary tuning without touching the outer screw.

Got it. Do you think pbanders table is useful?


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The brass adapter doesn't thread into the block... ordered the stainless.