Hello, we have a 1970-4, the clutch is slipping so I know it’s time to replace. I’ve read Pelican’s write up on replacing and also Ian Karr’s YouTube video which was super helpful.
The Pelican write up was super intimidating but the video makes it look a lot more doable. It looks like a big job but I think I can handle it, I am pretty intimidated though. So here’s my questions-

Can I just replace the clutch disc without the flywheel and all associated parts? Adding up all the parts with flywheel replacement is much more expensive than just the clutch disc.

I know replacing everything as shown in Ian’s video is the best thing I can do but another part of the procedure that scares me is I don’t have the gauges to measure the runout when replacing the flywheel.

Also looking for advice on whether I can just pull the tranny vs pulling the whole engine for this job if I’m just replacing clutch?
Thanks, Rob

While you're in there, replace the TOB, the 2 plastic pieces that retain the TOB, the small cup bushing, the pivot retaining clip....there's always more. Always.

There are critical demensions on the flywheel that might render your current FW useless after the machine work.

You don't have to pull the engine. It's not necessarily a hard job- just has a of steps and is time consuming and can lead to other things (like replacing the main seal). Was the one of the first big projects I took on when I got my car- and I had never really worked on a car before.
I ended up replacing the flywheel for piece of mind.

You really need to get a look at the parts before you know what needs replacing. In a perfect world yes, you would replace every bit, flywheel and on. You can remove just the transaxle, It's not that hard to do, you can support the engine with a suitable sized prybar using the round hole in the rear control arm that is there to adjust the rear brake caliper pad clearance. The bar has to be long enough to go under one side exhaust pipe. We've owned our teener for more than 40 years and have never needed every little bit when doing the clutch. Each time has been different. If you do find something worn , don't scrimp, replace it. One thing, if you do have the flywheel machined, you need to space the throw out bearing arm post with washers, the same amount. Good luck and get greasy! One last bit of advice, replace any oil seal you come across, there cheap insurance.

Bare minimum, if the flywheel doesent look to bad you can get by doing just the disc and the pressure plate. You may be able to get by just doing the disc, but I wouldn't chance it.


This is all from memory but:

Jack up rear of car
Disconnect the battery
Disconnect cables to the starter
Remove rear shift Linkage
Disconnect clutch cable from tranny
Remove Muffler
Support Motor
Support Tranny
Remove 2 upper tranny through bolts from engine side
Remove 2 lower nuts from Tranny side
Remove 4 bolts holding the rear tranny mounts to the chassis (leave the big bolts in place)
Lower tranny slightly and remove (starter comes with it)
Install flywheel lock
Remove pressure plate and clutch disk (6 bolts)

Clean/inspect flywheel and any other bits, shift fork bushings, throwout bearing, etc.
relube any movement points,

Reinstall in exactly reverse order

Should be able to do it in an hour or two depending on how much time you take to enjoy your beer.

If I'm going to all that trouble to either pull the drivetrain or just the transaxle, I'm going to plan on replacing at least the disc, pressure plate, the crankshaft seal, the flywheel or-ing, felt seal, and pilot bearing, the flywheel washer/plate behind the bolts, the throwout bearing and its plastic inserts, and the TOB lever plastic cup. And loctite for the flywheel and pressure plate.

And then I'd coordinate with a local machine shop to bring the flywheel to them after removal for inspection and at least facing, and I'd be prepared to buy a flywheel if necessary.

This is one of those jobs that if you try to do it short to save money, it may likely bite you in the ass in the long run and cost you more later (plus you'll have to do the job again.) You can get away with just replacing the disc, but only if you understand that it's likely a temporary measure "for now"...or if you're about to flip it to someone else (which, honestly, isn't really cool).

Do it once, and do it right.

I'm with James. My 914-4 that was auto-crossed and DE's for almost ten years, replace clutch disc and pressure plate two times...never had to touch the flywheel. And just tip motor down and remove trans only, last time it only took 4 hours start to finish. Best, Mark

All great advise! I may just bite the bullet and do the big job so I don’t have to go there again.
Would you guys recommend the Pelican 22-piece super clutch kit?

Hi Rob,
Glad you found the video helpful. It really isn't that complicated and I'm sure you can do it.

You've gotten great advice here...

– Do it once. Do it right. The most expensive job is a cheap one you have to re-do.

– Replace as much as you can afford for peace of mind and establishing a baseline for yourself and/or the next caretaker.

– You can leave the (supported) engine in the car and just pull the trans. Though I think dropping the engine is a good idea to make things easier...and to inspect / clean / do maintenance which is a pain while in the car.

– You may not need a new flywheel. If you do get yours resurfaced, make sure you add a washer / shim the pivot bolt on the throwout arm

– The dial gauge is not expensive, but super useful.

Here's another...

– While the pelican kit is one-click easy, you may find big savings on some parts elsewhere. What I did was put the full kit in my cart, and then shop around a bit. I was able to find a flywheel for about 100 less. Then i just removed the pelican one from the cart, and kept the rest of the kit.

Good luck and don't hesitate to post questions!

Like most repairs (and most things in life), do it right or do it again.

In the list of operations to remove the tranny, I seem to recall the often repeated reminder to “don’t forget to remove the ground strap” .

I’m probably wrong,but hopes this helps if that is correct advice

you definitely don't have to pull the engine to do the clutch or the flywheel.
drop the trans as per detailed instructions above.
i have a 4.
i had to take the muffler off to back the trans out but not the heat exchangers.
since i dropped the driveshafts, i did the cv joints as well. why not.
renewed all the gear linkage bushings as well.
as nihil44 says, yeah don't forget the strap. its hiding up there.

as mentioned the critical dimensions come into play with that flywheel.
you don't have a lot of machining room to move before you hit the top of the flywheel bolts. i seem to remember its pretty skinny really. for some reason. like maybe 914 flywheels are somehow not as thick as other type 4 flywheels but the bolts are the same?

All great info, thank you so much for the replies!
After what everyone has said I’m definitely going to do the complete job.
Thank you

Agree with wonkipop about not removing the heat exchangers. Don't mess with the exhaust studs unless you have to.
CV's are a good 'while your in there' job if they haven't been done before. Be prepared to replace them. Sucky job, but good for piece of mind.

i remember i supported the back end of the heat exchangers/exhaust just so i did not flex them accidently. rJames is right - exhaust studs.