Hi All,

I recently found metal in my oil after identifying an engine knock (likely a rod bearing has slipped). I have been researching what to do and wanted to get the communities opinion. Below are the options I have been considering or have questions about.

1. Rebuild existing engine. $8-10K minimum, may go higher depending on how much damage has been caused/if parts need to be replaced. My concern with this option is twofold, the unknown potential for significant additional cost and no warranty.

2. Rebuild existing engine using a rebuild kit. Seems like this option may alleviate the potential for significant additional costs but I am not really sure. Seems like it would be in the $10-12K range. Same concerns as #1. Would like your thoughts on this option.

3. Buy a 2.0, have it refurbished/rebuilt. This option is what my mechanic recommends. This also seems like a bit of a gamble because who knows what state the 2.0 would be in. I can see a scenario where I get a 2.0 for $2-4K and then need to spend $8-10K to rebuild. Similar concerns here as #1 and 2. Any suggestions here would also be much appreciated.

4. Buy a turn key 2.0. This is my currently preferred option. Leaning towards JCS for the turn key as they have good reviews, stand by their work, and are relatively reasonably priced. I also like this option as I can just sell my current engine to offset the cost of the turn key. Also get a warranty and don't have to worry about significant additional costs...to a point.

Thanks in advance for all your responses and recommendations.

Not meaning to play defeat the premise here, but there many many shops who only do engine rebuilds and do offer a warranty. That would mean you can keep the car as numbers matching, not worry about cost overruns, and get a warranty.

And given the region your in, even shipping to a shop in Southern California should be an option for you.

8-10k minimum to rebuild a 1911? That seems on the high side, but given that you are running carbs and not limited by stock FI, and the fact that you will most likely be replacing most of the components anyways I see no reason to not go with a 96x71 or 96x78 motor.

Given if you "rebuild" to a larger motor the only part of your original motor you will be reusing is the case, it doesn't make much difference if you build off another core or just buy one turnkey.

Since you are in the east bay area there is a shop in Auburn that several Bay Area Porsche shops send their engine/transaxle rebuilds to: https://www.holleranperformance.com

Now, I have not used them or been to their shop, but based upon the recommendations I have received from several different shops and owners, I plan to stop in and visit as soon as my car is back in my garage. I just moved to Auburn and my car is still in the east bay at my brother's house until I get my garage sorted.

I would be very cautious using John Holleran. I dealt with him when he was working with Pete at PBR in Crockett. If you need more details you can pm me.
There is a shop in Oakland that just did a complete rebuild for a friends 1.7 and it did cost about $8,500 to drive the car in and drive out. Gavin Autowerks 510-633-0620

Can you change the engine? I have no + or - regarding JCS, but for $2.5k a rebuilt 2.0 long block can be had. Hoping their track record is solid, this might be the easy road.

Keep us posted

Changing the engine is the way I am leaning. The current engine has so many unknowns and all of my options seem to be similarly priced.

I love the Bay Area, but if you get work done in Portland there is no sales tax and a complete rebuild is around 5-6k, add $500 for shipping- Look at Ben middle motors or James at German werke in clackamas- be patient, they are busy

Been a while since my last post...life.

I ended up getting a 2.0 long block from JCS and had Gavin Autowerks pull old engine and replace. All told it was $8600 and I love it!

The 2.0 was a 1974.

Thanks for all the interest and suggestions.