I still have that oil leak on the passenger side about the oil cooler side. Ive:
-drilled and tapped the oil galley plugs
-replaced the oil filter housing gasket
-changed out my oil cooler (from my brand new CB cooler to my old one)

the leak appears to be coming from the oil cooler. I have brand new seals in there, a lot of 3H sealent, and Ive used 2 oil coolers. I still cant find it. Has anyone seen a leak like this? The valve cover gasket isnt leaking at all, and the rest of the engine is leak free so far. It looks like its coming from the top of the oil filter housing, but it could be further up then that, its hard to tell. I think Ive replaced everything in that area and I still cant find this leak. The seals in the oil cooler are seated. They arent torn or anything.

Has anyone experienced a leak down here?

Bad "O" ring on dizzy shaft?

Bad seal / cracked oil filter adaptor?

Where could there be a crack in the adapter? Is that a common problem?

Oil pressure switch, distributor o-ring. The Cap'n

Have you tried a dye test. You can go down to any flaps and get the dye. Put it in and when it starts to leak get in there with a flouresent light and it with glow hopefully showing you where it's coming from.

Its bone dry next to the distrubutor and oil pressure sender. And I have an oil pressure gauge sender with the extension.

I know where the oil is coming from, i just cant get it to stop.

Did the towels and drapes I gave you from the hospital at least help with the mess???

Lisa

If I had to throw down a few bucks and bet, I'd bet seal on oil filter adaptor or line near fitting.

Did I win????

QUOTE (MattR @ Jul 28 2005, 05:32 PM)

I know where the oil is coming from

Where exactly on the oil cooler??? A seam? At the seals? from the center?

The leak is coming from the oil cooler seals. Ive applied lots of 3H to the seals, tightened the nuts pretty tight, put the washers behind the oil cooler (not between the block and the cooler), seated the seals properly. The front housing is off and the tin is out, so I have lots of room to make sure I got this right.

I got the seals in a Victor Reinz gasket set. Is it possible they're the wrong ones? Or what??? Its leaking right from the oil cooler seals. There is NO oil above the oil cooler, and a drip pattern is very clear to all the oiley parts.

QUOTE (Mrs. K @ Jul 28 2005, 04:36 PM)

Did the towels and drapes I gave you from the hospital at least help with the mess??? Lisa

Im starting to use those up already... damn oil leak

thanks lisa

Matt, sorry buddy, I was called away to the phone...

I've never built an engine.... are you sure it's not a problem with the fittings? Like.. maybe it's wrong, or cross threaded, or.. bent? or..

??

Damn, hate to hear it's blowing.


M

I don't know about any washers at all between the cooler and the case... I don't have any and it does'nt leak. I say lose the washers....

I'll bet it works.

IU'm with the Capn' on this one.... Oil press. switchs appear to be oil cooler leaks many, many times.

QUOTE (Jake Raby @ Jul 28 2005, 08:18 PM)

IU'm with the Capn' on this one.... Oil press. switchs appear to be oil cooler leaks many, many times.

Hey Jake,

Are you drinking? Coffee?

Look at your spelling....

The oil pressure sender is bone dry though. I have the oil cooler tin piece removed along with the fan housing.

QUOTE (Headrage @ Jul 28 2005, 07:18 PM)

I don't know about any washers at all between the cooler and the case... I don't have any and it does'nt leak. I say lose the washers.... I'll bet it works.

the sequence is in accordance with jake's video. Block - cooler - thick washer - nut

QUOTE (MattR @ Jul 28 2005, 09:57 PM)

tightened the nuts pretty tight

Only thing left to check, you must compress the seal for it to work. Should not need any sealer.

QUOTE (MattR @ Jul 29 2005, 01:11 AM)

the sequence is in accordance with jake's video. Block - cooler - thick washer - * - nut

*I add a lock washer also.

How can I check for a compressed seal?

Does it lok like this one?

are we talking oil seal or seal oil?

QUOTE (MattR @ Jul 29 2005, 02:02 AM)

How can I check for a compressed seal?

Look between the cooler and the mounting plate as you tighten the nuts, you can see the seal expand. Are you using this seal?

Yes, im using that seal. It looks like the seal is expanding in there. I just got another pair of seals to replace my brand new ones, and the problem persists.

Its bone dry above the oil cooler. Its very wet below the oil cooler. It gets to a drip after about 10 seconds of running.

QUOTE (Garland @ Jul 28 2005, 10:57 PM)

QUOTE (MattR @ Jul 28 2005, 09:57 PM) tightened the nuts pretty tight Only thing left to check, you must compress the seal for it to work. Should not need any sealer.

In fact, sealer will affect the connection. Makes it a LOT more apt to leak. The Cap'n

QUOTE (MattR @ Jul 30 2005, 02:01 PM)

Yes, im using that seal. It looks like the seal is expanding in there. I just got another pair of seals to replace my brand new ones, and the problem persists. Its bone dry above the oil cooler. Its very wet below the oil cooler. It gets to a drip after about 10 seconds of running.

Have you pressure tested the cooler? Sure sounds like you have a bad one. The Cap'n

I pressure tested both my coolers with my compressor and nothing leaked. Ive tried both coolers with both wet and dry seals with the same results.

I think I may have to take this one to a guy I know and pay him to get it done. Im going insane with this thing.

Hi Ya Matt,

I have been folllowing this thread from here in Mexico.

I pulled up a couple of pics of a bare case on Tunas web site.

Tunas Web Site

Looking at the picture from Tunas sight a couple of things come to mind.

1) You simply aren't tightening the cooler down enough to seal the cooler against the block.

2) The goop you are using may be allowing the seals to slip out of their appropriate place. or simply slide out of full contact between the block and the cooler.

3) You have a little piece "O" crap caught up in the "milled out" block recess for your seals.

4) Your block is cracked somewhere in the area of the cooler bosses. Use dye in the oil and a black light or ultra violet to find possible crack. The kind of light you use is dependent upon the dye used. Works bitchin

5) Just for shits and grins... Could it be coming out of one of the hold down stud threads? Might be an internal crack from the oil boss to a threaded section of the hold down bolts go into the block. Not likely... But I am fishing here....

5) OK, I am really reaching with this one
Could it be a crack in the block caused by some person overtightening the galley plug above the cooler. I was thinking that you must of run a tap down that hole above the cooler. Now lets take this a step furhter.
The galley plug hole runs out of thread at some point.
Kinda depends if you used a standard tap or a bottoming tap. Either way the plug starts cutting it's own threads as you tighten down the plug to bottom it out. At this point the aluminum builds up around the plug threads and starts expanding the metal around it. Kinda starts acting like a wedge being pushed down a hole. Voila..!! Cracked block..
Again.. not likely.
Maybe i have too much of an imagination...

6) Aaron drilled a little hole in your block while you were at Sklines and he is just screwing with you. (Most Probable)

Thats all I have for ya Bro... this is a most interesting issue.

And heres one more pic from Tuna's site to look at in case yur wondering what it looked like before you put da beast together.
Tuna 2

Thats all I have at the moment.

Chat with you later.

Twystd1

Clayton, thanks for the suggestions. Those pics are really good. I've ruled out a few of your suggestions, but they are food for thought. Im really starting to question that bottom galley plug. I checked the top one at the oil cooler because its in plain sight, but if I messed up the bottom one, I cant see it easily, and it could be easily mistaken for an oil cooler leak.

My thought on the cracked block; this is lots of oil thats leaking. I always understood a small crack wouldnt be too much oil. A hairline fracture probably wouldnt leak a quart of oil over 10 minutes, right? That was my thought.

for reference....

not the oil pressure sender....
not the oil filter mount.....
not the top galley plug.....

so.... a leaking plug? leaking seals?

Yep, I mean it has to be the middle galley plug or something is still wrong with the oil cooler seals... those are the only things I cant rule out on that picture.

Aaron, Great pic and labeling.

Matt, A hairine crack can leak out WAY more than you stated.

Especially on a COLD 2.0 litre engine. At a cold start up with the Shadek pump you have i bet you are close to 80-100 PSI oil pressure for a few minutes. It goes down fast as the engine warms. Depends on the viscosity of oil you are using and what your pressure relief is set at.

Also if you have a crack that ENDS at an orifice, plug or a threaded section. you can pump out way more than a quart per 1000 miles. I can't qualify how much. i have simply experienced it on a few engines in my life time.

On the orifice issue, I suggest you converse with Aaron on that. He seems to know much more than I on the orifice thing.
Remember. It's just a rumor......

Can't wait to hear the end of this story. Let me know how it progresses. I will continue to check this thread as often as possible.

And thanks for throwing this question on the board. I live for this shit.

And on exceptionaly rare occurences, I am actually correct on my assumptions. Purrrrfect..!!!!!

Twystd1