is 20mm of shankenuff to go through backpad/rubber pad/firewall/washer/nut?

AA

No.

A

Aaron,

take the rubber out and the firewall pad (in the engine bay)

you don't really want all of that compressable material in there anyways.

In the event of an accident it can compress-give, not really what you want to happen.

at the very least trim a circle of the pads off, where the washer is going to mount


brant

Yup! Many of the safety regs require "metal to metal mounting".

--DD

how thick is the firwall in between an 8th and a 1/4th inch right?

id hate to cut a hole in the backpad......

Do you want to leave the rubber under pad and engine firewall pad for sound purposes?

when you say you don't want to cut the back pad, are you referring to the upholstered vinyl interior back pad?

Your going to have to have some hole in the upholstry part for the screw to pass through. I did this once.
Pull the upholstered part off, then underneath take the 1/8th inch thick rubber matt off. Then put the upholstry back on. When I did it, I was pleased with the look. The eye hooks can be directly behind the seat where there is no meat to the back pad. And if you remove or at least cut a round circle out of the engine firewall pad, then you can still have metal to metal contact on the mounting itself.

brant

vinyl recovered backpad only, bare firewall in engine bay.....

i measure the shank...its more like 25 mm of thread....

figure a 1/4" for the backpad, and 1/4" for the firewall? should be plenty then???

AA

Ok... I'm understanding better.

dont forget a heavy washer on the back (nother 1/8th) and the full thickness of the nut.

but yes the backpad and firewall are less than 1/2... probably 1/4 total.

if you haven't already bought the bolts, better to be long than short. You do want the entire nut to have threads engaged, and probably about 1/2 inch of nut at that.

brant

i bought 10 eyebolts from xitspd. they thread right into the original seatbelt mounts...but are all the same length... ~1"

so it goes, backpad/firewall/big washer/nut.....

AA

and BTW - thanks for your help guys....

914club - its the bomb.... dot com.....

Do the ones you bought have a sholder near the eyebolt?

If you can, put the sholder on the actual metal instead of the back pad. So it actually goes: firewall, washer, nut...

but there is some stretch in the vinyl so you can make the hole in the vinyl the same size as the shoulder on the eye-bolt and still get the eyebolt mounted to metal. That way there is nothing but metal in your mount, but you still won't see any ugly cutting in your vinyl.

brant

QUOTE (brant @ Jul 29 2005, 02:26 PM)

Do the ones you bought have a sholder near the eyebolt? If you can, put the sholder on the actual metal instead of the back pad. So it actually goes: firewall, washer, nut... but there is some stretch in the vinyl so you can make the hole in the vinyl the same size as the shoulder on the eye-bolt and still get the eyebolt mounted to metal. That way there is nothing but metal in your mount, but you still won't see any ugly cutting in your vinyl. brant

yes. they have a pretty large shoulder.... bigger than a 1/2 inch....

there is a lot of stretch in that vinyl.
I could stretch my back pad over the circle part of the eyebolt and it still didn't look bad when everything was in place.

also, regarding the lower mounting points (stock seatbelt mounts)

the inner one on the center tunnel.
The bolt will almost have to be shortened.
I don't remember the measurements, but what happens is that the bolt sticks into the tunnel far enough to hit the shift linkage rod. And when your all done and go for a drive you will find that you don't any longer have 1 of the gears, because the rod won't travel far enough to the side.

Solution is the shorten the bolt.

So when you put it together, check for this and be prepaired to take the eyebolt back out and cut some off.

brant

QUOTE (brant @ Jul 29 2005, 02:39 PM)

there is a lot of stretch in that vinyl. I could stretch my back pad over the circle part of the eyebolt and it still didn't look bad when everything was in place. also, regarding the lower mounting points (stock seatbelt mounts) the inner one on the center tunnel. The bolt will almost have to be shortened. I don't remember the measurements, but what happens is that the bolt sticks into the tunnel far enough to hit the shift linkage rod. And when your all done and go for a drive you will find that you don't any longer have 1 of the gears, because the rod won't travel far enough to the side. Solution is the shorten the bolt. So when you put it together, check for this and be prepaired to take the eyebolt back out and cut some off. brant

already shortened it...



Brant - i owe you a beer...
AA

QUOTE (brant @ Jul 29 2005, 01:03 PM)

Aaron, take the rubber out and the firewall pad (in the engine bay) you don't really want all of that compressable material in there anyways. In the event of an accident it can compress-give, not really what you want to happen. at the very least trim a circle of the pads off, where the washer is going to mount brant

Metal to Metal.....

Dan