Hi All. I’m thinking of bringing a 73 1.7 out of long term storage. It’s been in the family for quite a few years and probably has more sentimental value than the car is worth. I know rust repair work can be a slippery slope. It will need floor pans and inner longitudinals at a minimum. Probably hell hole work as well. Does anyone have any recommendations on a shop that has experience with these cars? Prefer to keep the car somewhat local. Thanks.

You could try 914 ltd . I have sworn off these projects now for others just myself otherwise I would consider it.

I'd second 914 Ltd. in Peoria.
https://914ltd.com
Brad Mayeur
914 Limited Inc.
1162 N. Byerly Hills Dr.
East Peoria, IL. 61611
309-694-1797

@914ltd

I did reach out to Brad maybe 5 years ago. I was under the impression that he was focusing more on the mechanical aspects of the cars. He wasn’t interested in getting involved in a structural repair or restoration at that time. Maybe things have changed. I’ll give him a buzz. Thanks for the recommendations.

Unless you're wealthy and have $40k to throw at it, professional floor pans and longitudinal replacement are a dead end for anything other than a 914/6 in my experience.

I say that based on my experience doing it. I'm easily 200-300 hours into my chassis. Put that at $100/hr shop rate and that is $20k-30k of metal work. Not counting a couple thousand in metal, and the need for paint when done.

Feel free to look at my build thread in my signature. Several other threads as well.

Jeff Hail's
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=76791

Brent Brock
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=307290

Many others have tread this path. It's a great hobby and a labor of love to DIY. Money losing endeavour to pay someone else. Especially if you want it done right and not just crappy workmanship throwing lapped patch panels over holes.

If Brad can't do it, @McMark is in Grand Rapids. Probably as close to Chicago as Peoria. As mentioned, high quality structural rust repairs are not cheap. Any chance you could show us what you're working with? Some pics of the rust areas would be great when you get a chance.

Peter, thanks for the words of caution. I’m far from wealthy and $40k in metalwork is beyond my budget. And I realize that the project doesn’t end there. Paint isn’t cheap either. I guess some decisions need to be made. The car has been in the family for 35 years! It has 58,000 on the odometer and mechanically it’s very sound. The floors had been patched by the previous owner. I’m sure not to professional standards. I’m certain the longitudinals need attention as well. As they say, rust never sleeps. Maybe it’s time to do a more detailed inspection on the integrity of the tub. I’d hate to part out a numbers matching car, but if it’s a project I can’t afford to do right, maybe that’s the proper decision.

I don't mean to be a downer. For sure assess what you have.

What I would encourage you to do, what I'm doing myself. That is saving a car as a hobby that otherwise should have been scrapped despite the solid upperbody.

My encouragement is to DIY. Many others have tread that path and documented it very well on this site. But, it needs to be a labor of love which might be asppropriate given the sentimental value.

I realize not everyone wants to do it themselves and the task can be daunting. The important thing is it can be done if you want. You'll acquire skills and tools along the way for far less than $40k. With time and patience, you can achieve a professional result.

Peter, I asked for advice and I thank you for your opinion. By no means do I consider it to being a downer. It’s being realistic. Good work doesn’t come cheap. I fully understand that. It’s been awhile since I’ve really looked over the car. Probably best to get a closer look before any decisions are made.Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Looks a lot like where mine started. Nice on the topside but was rotten floorpan all the way round about 1" up. Passenger long was gone. Driver side was solid.

Looks to be worth saving. I think I maybe see a bit of rust though on the driver side door sill? Pictures of longs and hell hole would tell the tale.

100% agree on both the satisfaction of doing it yourself and the 100s of hours it takes to replace/patch floor pans. A task not suited for everyone. I would assess the condition of the front floor pan and firewall where the pedal cluster mounts. If rotted into the firewall add another 100 hrs of your time. You will need donor metal or some origami metal shaping skills on that piece.

I'm in the area. PM me if you'd like me to take a look and show you what areas to assess more closely. Almost everything is fixable now that there are replacement panels available.

Thanks everyone for the advice. The car has been stored at my parents place. Next time I visit I’ll take some more detailed pictures. I think my plan is to drain the fuel and see if I can get it started. I think I had an issue with an injector the last time it was started. Does anyone have a source for 1.7 injectors. I’m guessing that replacing all 4 might be a smart move.
Chris, I might take you up on giving me a prognosis on the underside. I’ll keep you posted.
Much thanks.

I think FJ114 injectors are correct?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/porsche...l+injector,6224