Hey everyone: Moving along on the fuel line upgrade and other related bits. Need some input on how to remove the shifter knob is one. I made a slotted 2x4 block and whacked on it with a small hammer, it didn't move and the block broke. I'm sure it's been off more than once during it's lifetime. How hard can I smack it before I bust something in the linkage? Should I heat it?
And then, the console is in pretty sad shape. I'm pretty good at woodworking and should be able to refresh it. Should I just look for a repro?
Does anyone have a digital template for the pedal board? Mine has some big bites out of it along the top and I can recreate it if I have good lines for what is missing.
And finally, for now at least, to test the voltage gauge, is it more complicated than hooking a known voltage power supply to it?
Cheers!Click to view attachment Click to view attachment
Full Version: fuel line interior questions
The knob may be epoxied on. Try turning it.
QUOTE(robkammer @ Feb 1 2022, 12:28 PM) 
Hey everyone: Moving along on the fuel line upgrade and other related bits. Need some input on how to remove the shifter knob is one. I made a slotted 2x4 block and whacked on it with a small hammer, it didn't move and the block broke. I'm sure it's been off more than once during it's lifetime. How hard can I smack it before I bust something in the linkage? Should I heat it?
And then, the console is in pretty sad shape. I'm pretty good at woodworking and should be able to refresh it. Should I just look for a repro?
Does anyone have a digital template for the pedal board? Mine has some big bites out of it along the top and I can recreate it if I have good lines for what is missing.
And finally, for now at least, to test the voltage gauge, is it more complicated than hooking a known voltage power supply to it?
Cheers!
Post a pic of the knob. Originally it presses over a crush sleeve, basically a friction fit that should easily hammer off. If that was loose then it likely got glued.
That is a factory console that looks like it was cut down for the under dash A/C unit. I'd make a new one with cup & phone holders & updates.
Pedal board. Just find a pic of original or one of the aluminum aftermarket pieces. It's fairly simple, just 2 cutouts for the mounting plates.
Volt gauge... nope just measures 12v and has a back light.
For the knob you can try an open end wrench just bigger than the shaft size and a dead blow or heavy hammer. Just keep your face out of the way when it releases. The knob could break if it is really old and brittle. Maybe try some tape around the wrench. I have heard you can pull with a good grip, but it is really hard and again a surprise when it releases.
Thanks fellas, It is most likely the original console cut down, I think I'm going to try to rebuild it. Had not thought about building a new one. What are cup holders?
The shift knob does not turn and I believe it to be the original Bakelite knob. Thanks for the wrench idea! Hope it's not epoxied on. Might try some heat.
The shift knob does not turn and I believe it to be the original Bakelite knob. Thanks for the wrench idea! Hope it's not epoxied on. Might try some heat.
Thanks fellas, It is most likely the original console cut down, I think I'm going to try to rebuild it. Had not thought about building a new one. What are cup holders?
The shift knob does not turn and I believe it to be the original Bakelite knob. Thanks for the wrench idea! Hope it's not epoxied on. Might try some heat.
Update: Heat gun and the dead blow got it. Felt like I was working on a Ford
The shift knob does not turn and I believe it to be the original Bakelite knob. Thanks for the wrench idea! Hope it's not epoxied on. Might try some heat.
Update: Heat gun and the dead blow got it. Felt like I was working on a Ford
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