Hi, I came across this forum while researching into 914's. I'm a middle aged enthusiast after his first Porsche. The 914's seem to be the affordable and maintenance seems to be doable at home. I'm an OK mechanic but have a buddy who owns a shop and can help me in a pinch.

There are 2 914's I have my eyes on and was looking for some advice from you all.

The first is a 1972 with a flat four which belongs to a distant acquaintance, he's asking for around $12000 for this car. I have not seen it in person but am going there over the weekend. I could not see an option to upload multiple pictures so added it to Imgur - https://imgur.com/a/KFZaem4

The car seems to have been in the family for the past 20 yrs.
1) There's no surface rust, car starts and runs well.
2) I noticed a respray when I looked at a picture of the door sill
3) Upholstery needs work as there's significant fading of the seats and tears in the upholstery
4) The paint has faded may need to be buffed.
5) New battery, no rust below battery.
6) Has not been run in awhile so would need to be serviced
7) No original book and manuals (has a clean title)

The other car is on eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/154813657145?hash=...ksAAOSwilxh8eZe

I personally prefer Phoenix Red .

Is this a fair price in this day and age?

Thank you!

Edit: Thanks for the advice and feedback. Really appreciate you all taking the time to look at the pictures. I have a better idea around what to expect while going to take a look at the first car. I messaged the owner last night with a list of areas to look at for rust. He reviewed the and said that it's good all around except some surface rust on the very bottom most probably from road salt where some of the undercoat let go. Fingers crossed that it does have a solid body. He's also promised to have an awl handy for me to poke around He seems to be pretty open and honest about the state of the car so far.

For the $ being mentioned here, I wouldn't even make a phone call.

Welcome to 914World!

I'm not sure how long you've been looking...fortunately/unfortunately, 914's having been riding an increase in pricing...which tends to bring some unfavorable cars to the market.

If you haven't already done so, I would strongly advise reviewing some of Ian Karr's videos on YouTube...he's done some on inspections and most common rust areas...this should give you a good starting point.

Fortunately, you already have mechanical skills. Most here will tell you that there is no such thing as a rust free Porsche 914...the question then becomes, how much can you tolerate/what are you willing to repair/have repaired?

Fortunately, quality 914 metal panels are readily available.

Take your time looking...as Ian often says, buy the best 914 you can afford.

Lastly, when it does come to inspect/purchase a vehicle, I would recommend finding someone very familiar with these cars to help you with a Pre-Purchase Inspection.

Good luck in your search and welcome to 914World!

PS: Regarding the two vehicle already posted, lack of title on the first one is a red flag. On the second one, heavy over-spray and what looks to be rust bubbling through the passenger sail panel is also a red flag, IMHO.

Thanks! Is it that bad? I can't seem to find reasonably priced 914's. I edited my post around papers. It's a clean title just doesn't have the original manuals etc.

Looking at the photos, very few of them focus on the traditional rust problem areas found on the 914 - hell hole, rear trunk floor, longs, floor, etc. Finding a good chassis (or one that has been previously repaired, competently) can make a major difference in future ownership costs and overall happiness levels.

Getting an in person once-over (PPI) from someone who knows these cars would be a wise investment?

Oh, and

- Tony

The first 914 is very rough, but may be more original than the ebay car, which is
definitely NOT ALL ORIGINAL! Too many red flags for either car to be worth $5K. Buyer beware! And be informed with an experienced 914 owner as guide if you can arrange for one come next inspection time. .

Thanks for the warm welcome! I have not been looking for long. It's been a new year resolution to finally get the 914.

I have been devouring Ian's videos and plan to do the checks he recommends. I do not have any buddies with experience with 914's so will definitely ask around.

I edited my post - the first one has a clear title it has 2 owners. I mean't that it did not have the original manuals (my bad)

Thanks again for the detailed response.

Mind sharing your intended budget?

Thanks for the warm welcome Tony!

Yes, the current owner inherited the car from a relative who passed. He has a bunch of other cars so he's selling the Porsche. He seems to know how way around cars as he has restored quite a few of them.

I'll just go and take a look at the areas Ian has mentioned in his videos an you've bought up.

In person PPI is challenging but will explore options before diving into it.Maybe a euro shop that knows cars to do a once over.

The car in the post here looks pretty good on the surface and the interior items are easy to fix. If the car is a California car it is probably solid.
A friend of mine has a red 73 with the vinyl on the the windshield frame and the velour seat inserts and he told me that it was a special edition California car.
If it is solid $12k seems reasonable
I would shy away from a mid west ebay special

Thanks Jamie. I will not bother with the eBay car, appreciate your feedback.

I will start looking for 914 owners in town. I'll go and take a look at the first car and see if they're open to negotiation (if there are no major rust/ frame other issues)

Hi Jeff, I had started off with a budget of around $5k

George at AutoAtlanta has a really good What To Look For video, too.

Thanks! Good to know that at least the surface looks good. Hopefully, it has good bones below and has minimal rust. I was not aware of the special edition. Is vinyl on the windshield frame not common?

I'll have more details over the weekend.

In the first picture you can see my friends 73 car that he claims was a special california edition car and in the second photo my 73 that is typical without the vinyl on the windshield frame
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Ah right! I see it now. Thanks.

Your car looks great. The red really pops.

Thanks StarBear! Did not know about his channel. I found this great video from George (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRBvwsQDBj0)

Good to know. Not sure what your expectations are but a 5k 914 is in parts car territory these days, and may not even be drivable or will have major wear or condition issues if they are drivable. Anticipate a project car requiring sweat equity and only buy the best condition 914 you can afford. Which can be fun, or exasperating depending on your perspective, skills, available time and persistence. Beware the truism of 914 ownership: the cheapest 914 is the most expensive Porsche you can buy. With full support and respect that everyone has a budget. Just don’t go into this blind.

As others have said, the three biggest concerns are rust, rust, and rust.

A small bit of surface rust can be fixed at home or for a few(?) hundred at a body shop. More serious rust can start to rot out passenger compartment floors, rear and front trunk floors (and affect the suspension mounts in front), windshield base and cowl, door jambs, and targa sail bases. The most serious rust gets into the structure of the longitudinal "beams" (under the door sills) that are made up of several layers and components. The right side is often worse, since battery acid gets washed down, eats through the top of the long (the notorious Hell Hole) and then rots the structure from the inside out, and often attacks the outer right rear suspension mount. But both longs can rust from the outside in, when dirt gets trapped inside the removable metal rocker covers. In worst cases, the longs lose so much strength, the car can literally fold when the top is off and the doors are open. Fixing any serious rust can run into $thousands, just for materials. And these days just a decent full paint job is likely to cost several thousand (or more).

So as you continue shopping, look first and hardest at all potential rust spots. That means in-person inspections and photos of the trouble spots. And that means removing the rocker covers, getting into the Hell Hole, removing carpets, looking under seats, etc. For the two examples you showed, the photos are not really revealing the potential rust condition.

Thanks for the reality check. Yes, I'm aware that this car has a lot or Porsche parts that are expensive. I definitely do not want to purchase a car that does not run well or one that comes with a ton of rust issues.

I have a question for you. The seller just texted me that the car has the flat 4 with 2 Weber carbs (is that a good thing?) it also has a spare flat 4 fuel injected engine with the exhaust system. I believe fuel injection came in the later years - is it an easy swap? is there a huge improvement in performance with fuel injection?

Finally, are carbs a maintenance nightmare?

Appreciate the detailed post bkrantz. I'm going to go prepared to uncover any rust spots around the car. The rocker cover seems to be a bit of a challenge to remove but will figure out a way to check.I have a checklist of things to cover when I check the first car this weekend.

You being here in SoCal is a plus. Mine spent a fair amount of time close to the coast, and though it sold new in southern california and stayed here, it has rusticles. I got a replacement tub in east San diego county out in the dez, and this tub is very solid. So keep an eye on the riverside/coachella valley, Imperial and east san diego county. I'm in the coachella valley, if I see anything, I'll PM.

Of the two 914s, the first looks better to me. Learn as much as you can from this forum and videos by Ian and George. Knowing what to expect will save you from shock and disappointment later on.

Rust, like everyone has said, is standard. How much there is is the big question and what you can live with are important considerations. You will be surprised at how may replacement and rejuvenation parts are available.

When I bought my 914 in Sept 2021, I invested in a cheap $100 electronic paint thickness measuring gauge form Amazon. When you place it against the paint it will tell you the thickness of what is covering the metal.

On my car, although it looked fine on the surface, the paint gauge revealed Bondo thick in places and in some cases no metal behind it. The simple test let me know what I was getting and allowed me to knock a few thousand off the price (paid for the tester).

One obvious thing from the photos is the speedometer is not original. The car has way more than 3153 miles - true milage is likely unknown unless the old speedo is still around. You can tell the speedo is from a later model (74 onwards) as it has a black button pivot for the needle. The tachometer is correct for a 72 as it has the silver button center.

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Thanks for the reality check. Yes, I'm aware that this car has a lot or Porsche parts that are expensive. I definitely do not want to purchase a car that does not run well or one that comes with a ton of rust issues.

I have a question for you. The seller just texted me that the car has the flat 4 with 2 Weber carbs (is that a good thing?) it also has a spare flat 4 fuel injected engine with the exhaust system. I believe fuel injection came in the later years - is it an easy swap? is there a huge improvement in performance with fuel injection?

Finally, are carbs a maintenance nightmare?
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I have dual Webers. Like all carbs, the engine has to crank a bit more to start (unlike modern fuel injection). Nothing overly bad about carbs. The 914 fuel injection parts are apparently getting hard to find. My 1974 engine was rebuilt by Fat Performance - Rimco in Santa Fe Springs. It is a bored out 2.4 litre high strung engine putting out a lot more power than stock. You could always have the spare engine rebuilt while you drive the one already in the car. Always nice to have an option like that.

All 914/4's came from the factory with fuel injection.

Two carbs run a lot better than one carb.

Bring a magnet when inspecting 914's! I looked at one once with a "rust-free" hell hole. My magnet didn't stick in the area because it was all fiberglass painted to match.

I ended up buying a 914 with a very small hell hole that was otherwise in good shape in terms of rust and it ran great.

Figure out what you're comfortable with tackling, because they'll all come with jobs. Even the $30k cars on eBay... especially the 30k cars on eBay!!

For a lot of us on this forum that have been owners for a long time, 5K used to be the going price for an excellent running 914, and free -1000 used to be a parts car.

These days there are still deals to be had and you want to buy the car with the LEAST RUST ANYWHERE. And those cars are going to cost north of 10K.

You want to look:
1) the well under the battery tray where it meets the firewall
2) battery tray
3) under the car about where the cab ends and the engine bay begins
4) around the jack points (hard to do with the rockers on)
5) under the car looking up at the cab floors


Its better to buy a non-running car with a solid body then a running car with structural rust. And ALL of these cars are going to have rust somewhere.

If the car from your friend is solid, then buy it. Paint can be buffed, and the interior parts are all available. Check it out and just make sure the body is sound. Its a minor red flag (but STILL A RED FLAG) that there are no pics of the common rust areas. Go look for sure. Bring a trailer. Haggle on the price, but if the car is solid its a $10K car right now.

Zach

Take an ice pick when you go look at cars.

No one is going to stab at any car I'm trying to sell with an ice pick!!! Would you let me do that to yours?

Thank you. Appreciate the help.

Thanks! The paint thickness measure is an excellent idea. I'll check if my buddy at the shop has one lying around for the weekend.

Good catch on the speedometer. I saw George talk about something similar on the Green 914 in the video. I'll ask about it.

Thanks for the insight around the dual carbs. I'll add a magnet to my checklist.

I sent the owner a list of questions last night after the great feedback from this forum. He reviewed all the areas where there's a high possibility of rust and he said that it's good all around except some surface rust on the very bottom most probably from road salt where some of the undercoat let go. Fingers crossed that it does have a solid body.

Thanks Zach. I'll look for these spots. I messaged the owner last night and he reviewed all the areas where there's a high possibility of rust and he said that it's good all around except some surface rust on the very bottom most probably from road salt where some of the undercoat let go.

I've rented a Uhaul trailer for the trip and am taking my shop buddy and my wife along to help review the car. I can get a tad excited and look at cars through beer goggles

Ha ha. The owners promised to have an awl handy for me to poke around which is a good thing.

So exciting! Hope it goes well. Such great advice; where else could you get all this, so fast?

Assume a project car for 5k or you will be verry lucky if you can find something decent. Best advice is to find the best car you can and pull the trigger, otherwise you will be shelling out more $$ to get her right, and it will probably never be right.

Best of luck with your search

Who said anything about stabbing? You can find well hidden rust in obscure areas with gentle probing. If it goes thru the metal it only leaves a tiny hole on a rust free car. I would not be buying your car.

Make sure the magnet you use is weak. I bought a car with fiberglass over metal in the hell hole, my too strong magnet fooled me. A friend suggested the vinyl refrigerator magnets, often used for advertising. Weak and a bit soft on the backside so they won't mar the paint.

As you've already discovered, this community is amaziing and generous with their knowledge. Glad you're finding the videos helpful. Thanks for the kind reviews.

Another suggestion I'd add to the great ones you've already received would be to buy a car from one of our members in the classifieds forum. While we have many characters here, 99% are super honest and want to do right by our own.

Regardless of where you find a car you're interested in, definitely post that you'd like someone nearby to do a PPI for you. There are knowledgeable members here from all over the country...and the world. Most will gladly do the PPI for free or a donation to their favorite charity.

These are the two golden rules to consider:

1) Buy the best car you can afford. It's way better to spend X on a solid car, than 1/2 X on an sketchy one with hopes that you'll improve it. BTW, we've all made that mistake. Once.

2) Never ever buy a car without a pre-purchase inspection by someone who knows 914s

If you follow both of those rules, the chances of you being satisified with your purchase go up exponentially.

Good luck and welcome to the addiction!

Ian

Thanks Ian. I've decided to go down the best car you can afford route as there are way too many variables that could go wrong with a 50 yr old car.

Thanks! Yes, have gotten over my initial excitement and am now going to look for a good running car which has been used but not abused.

Thanks! had not thought of this. Such great tips on this forum.

Buy the best car you can with the smallest ice pick holes in the floor

That's 2. Not quite sure what your point is. Point...get it? they all laugh, then they buy a rusty . Remain calm, and carry on.