Harumph! So my car's been down most of the summer with electrical problems. The big thing is that the alt isn't charging the battery. The car will start fine when I recharge the battery, but after just a few minutes of driving, the battery (and thus the car) dies.
I've replaced the alternator, I've replaced the voltage regulator. What else is there that goes from the alt. to the battery that I can replace (besides the whole relay board)? I'll have my roommate give me a jump this afternoon to see if the VR solved the problem, but I have a feeling that wasn't it. Any ideas?
I checked the voltage across the posts on the starter solenoid, and it read the exact same as my battery; 8.13.
I guess when I get my RM to jump me this eve, I should check the voltage across the alt wire, right? Just make sure the new alt. is actually working properly? Anything else I should check?

Thanks,
Cole

Take your freshly charged battery down to the local parts place and have them perform a load test on it.

I got a nickel that says batt is dead.

Nothing drains a good batt that fast.

I'm sure you removed batt terminals and used a wire brush on the insides of connector cables as well as batt posts. right? =-))

Hmmm.... it's a new Optima redtop. The posts are still shiny new.
Dead, hmm? Meaning the battery won't hold a charge? Hmmm.... It's testing right now at 8.13 volts. Still back up your theory? (Not being a smartass, I really don't know.)
It does seem to die really fast. After having Advanced charge it fully, I'll toss it in the car and I drive it for maybe 4-5 minutes before it dies.

Looks like I'll be walking the 3 miles to FLAPS with my damn battery again. Sigh.

Thanks!!


Cole

Even a new battery can be suspect, I guess. But they should have tested it once they charged it.

Pull the fuses for all non-essential crap... stereo, lights, cig lighter, etc, etc... everything that it takes to run the car.

Then, go out and drive it. Use hand signals for safety. If it still dies, then you've started to isolate the problem.

Next step... clean and check all grounds.

-Lawrence

The battery needs to show at least 12.5v with NOTHING connected to it, or it's not charged. Try putting it on a slow (2-3 amps) charger for a long time, like a few hours. If you can't get the battery back up to 12.5v, it's kaput. A fully charged battery should run a car for over an hour before it dies, not just a few minutes.

I've managed to revive an Optima that sat discharging by leaving it on a charger for awhile. However, mine only started out at 10v. Below 9v is pretty low, and may indicate permanent death. Lead-acid batteries don't like to be left uncharged for long.

I just found my belt interlock relay was hotwired, somehow.. it was closed always, for at least a few days.... maybe you have a similar drain somewhere in the harness?



M

When an Optima goes bad they go quick not like a normal bat. I have had one go and a friend who drag races from work has had his go. Its like they have a good bad switch and there is no warning when they are about to go. I like them otherwise and I got another one and have had it for 4 Years in 5 cars with no problems as of yet.

QUOTE (wrpspddrvr @ Jul 31 2005, 12:37 PM)

Hmmm.... it's a new Optima redtop. The posts are still shiny new. Dead, hmm? Meaning the battery won't hold a charge? Hmmm.... It's testing right now at 8.13 volts. Still back up your theory? (Not being a smartass, I really don't know.) It does seem to die really fast. After having Advanced charge it fully, I'll toss it in the car and I drive it for maybe 4-5 minutes before it dies. Looks like I'll be walking the 3 miles to FLAPS with my damn battery again. Sigh. Thanks!! Cole

Alritey then,

remove the cables to the batt, attach a low amp charger to the batt.
Let it run overnight in a well ventilated area with no spark source nearby.

If you still have 8V measured at the batt then U tell me what's wrong. =-)
Answer:Battery.

If your batt is dead and will hold a charge for 10 minutes then that's the problem.

Under normal conditions prople run their cars for over an hour without using headlights with no alternator. The only draw onthe batt should be brake lights and ignition system, hopefully.

FYI...
We have a store called Harbour Freight in Cali that has load testers on sale right now. Seems like every family member and friend comes to me with these questions.
A load tester is thee tool for testing batt's next to a volt/ohm meter.

I recently struggled with a non-charging battery. Do you get the G light when the key is in the on position. If so, I dont know what to tell you. For me, I was not getting the G light to come on when the key was on and no charge when the car was on. I swapped out the relay board (luckily i had another) and after everything I did, that was the fix. Now I show about 13v at battery with car on. Also, check the light itsefl in the dash as that completes the circut for the alternator.

--Ben

iirc, I remember something about the G idiot light. If the idiot light is burnt out, the car will not charge the battery.

TEST AT THE BATTERY TERMINALS!!!!

12.5v at rest FULLY CHARGED
12.8-13.5 at idle
13.5-14 at 2500 rpms.

Generator light is on when ignition switch is on.
Generator light dims at idle
Goes out when engine is warm and over 1000 rpms.

No worky gen light, no chargy....

QUOTE (lapuwali @ Jul 31 2005, 01:48 PM)

Lead-acid batteries don't like to be left uncharged for long.

ESPECIALLY optimas andother sealed batteries. They need to stay above 10v. Also, if a battery is too discharged, it won't take a charge, and acts like an open circuit. This makes it possible to fry your alternator diodes just by jump starting it. When you remove the jumper cables, it's just like disconnecting the battery (a big no-no).

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Jul 31 2005, 04:08 PM)

Alritey then, remove the cables to the batt, attach a low amp charger to the batt. Let it run overnight in a well ventilated area with no spark source nearby. If you still have 8V measured at the batt then U tell me what's wrong. =-) Answer:Battery. If your batt is dead and will hold a charge for 10 minutes then that's the problem. Under normal conditions prople run their cars for over an hour without using headlights with no alternator. The only draw onthe batt should be brake lights and ignition system, hopefully. FYI... We have a store called Harbour Freight in Cali that has load testers on sale right now. Seems like every family member and friend comes to me with these questions. A load tester is thee tool for testing batt's next to a volt/ohm meter.

For some reason, Optima batteries charge differently. When I left the satellite radio on in my jeep, I tried to charge the battery with my trickle-charger for 2 days... yeah, the jeep started, but the Optima was dead the next morning.

Mine was registering about 5 volts.

Take it in for charging... let the guys at FLAPS put it on their machine for a few hours.

Hey guys,
Thanks for all the replies. I just rode over to my FLAPS and they found it to be a bad battery. Evidently it has been bad for a while.
I had seen the white stickers they put on my battery every time I took it in there to be charged, but they didn't say anything about it being bad. Good thing the guy was on top of things today!
Anyway, should have a new battery tomorrow, so all should be well! Wahoo!! (Keeping fingers crossed)

Thanks again,
Cole

>>The car will start fine when I recharge the battery, but after just a few minutes of driving, the battery (and thus the car) dies.

i'm sure i must be missing something....but why would the car die if the battery won't charge? i thought everything ran off the alternator?

wasn't there a thread sometime back about problems with the bosch rebuilt alternators? some kind of grounding issue? not sure if there is any revelance to your problem, but maybe someone can point you to that thread. it might be under classic threads.

QUOTE (wrpspddrvr @ Jul 31 2005, 12:18 PM)

I checked the voltage across the posts on the starter solenoid, and it read the exact same as my battery; 8.13. Thanks, Cole

Across the posts on the solenoid? Why? What were you hoping THAT would tell you? A truly meaningless test ........ Testing voltage is done with one probe on (+) and one on (-), AKA, a "ground"................................ The Cap'n

Ya know? nobody said to check the battery cables for shorts. or corrosion running up under the insulation.
Are all the gromets in place as the cable passes through the tin at the back of the engine?

QUOTE (wrpspddrvr @ Jul 31 2005, 03:01 PM)

Hey guys, Thanks for all the replies. I just rode over to my FLAPS and they found it to be a bad battery. Evidently it has been bad for a while. I had seen the white stickers they put on my battery every time I took it in there to be charged, but they didn't say anything about it being bad. Good thing the guy was on top of things today! Anyway, should have a new battery tomorrow, so all should be well! Wahoo!! (Keeping fingers crossed) Thanks again, Cole

I rest my case.

I had a new Optmia yellow in my V8 conversion. On the second test drive around the block it died due to an internal short. Luckly I was within pushing distance back home.

David

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Aug 1 2005, 11:41 AM)

QUOTE (wrpspddrvr @ Jul 31 2005, 03:01 PM) Hey guys, Thanks for all the replies. I just rode over to my FLAPS and they found it to be a bad battery. Evidently it has been bad for a while. I had seen the white stickers they put on my battery every time I took it in there to be charged, but they didn't say anything about it being bad. Good thing the guy was on top of things today! Anyway, should have a new battery tomorrow, so all should be well! Wahoo!! (Keeping fingers crossed)  :rockin:  :miles: Thanks again, Cole I rest my case.

You da' man

You were right. Got the new battery today, and all has been well. Just got in from raising hell on the streets of Blacksburg. Wahooie!

Cole