Wondering what this would have plugged into it. Looks like it's a ground of some sort and looks stock? Anyone have a clue? 1973 914 2.0

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Thats the heater fan ground for a 1970-72 914. Is your engine original to the 1973 chassis?

The engine code is GA000744 And have no idea if original or not but looks like it was never out of the car. What do you think and much thanks for solving this. I just got this project that was left around for years. I'm still trying to figure out the vacuum hoses which this 1973 seems to have 1/2 73 and 1/2 74? setup. It has a round air filter. Do you have any idea what this other mystery plug is for? no idea on that one either. Talking about the last picture, the one coming off of the thick onesClick to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

That one looks to be the connection for the head temperature sensor. Coming out of the engine tin on the passenger side should be a wire that leads to the head temp sensor.

Does the car still have the fuel injection?

My early '73 has the same tab, it never had anything connected to it.

Probably installed on the engine in 73 until someone figured out it was no longer needed.

Yep - I have the same lug on my early '73 (9/72 build) (Original engine confirmed by Porsche.)

And I posted the same question soon after I got the car. Got some informative replies:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=354174&hl=

Ron

Yes, it still has the fuel injection system. Not starting up though. Fuel pump seems to not be working. Can't hear anything when cranking. And I changed the relays to new ones and still nothing. Any suggestions?

Well that solves that one for that rogue plug in. Nothing goes there
Thanks

Yeah same here on the rogue plug. I have actually run that first ground tab to the battery on mine to improve the engine grounding on the fan shroud. Aluminum is not the best conductor and I saw a notible drop in resistance to ground when I was troubleshooting charging issues.

Give us a full picture of your engine. Show us the heads too, around the injectors/plugs.

aaah ground?

You have a 2.0 engine case and 1.7 heads and injection system.

I think all bets are off as far as originality.

We haven't seen the heads yet... It could be quite a frankenstien. Or simply a strange mix of djet components.

From the pics it looks like you need some help routing the crankcase ventilation as well...

Get us those pictures of the heads and engine!

You can see the spark plug angle in the pic, they are not 2.0 914 heads. Leaves a lot of questions as to what the bottom end is made up of.

In the 70s and 80s when the engines started running poorly in these cars they would take it out and just throw a rebuilt engine in. Less than a days work. Then the shop would rebuild the one they took out and throw it in something else. The numbers on the case don't really mean very much other than that was originally in a 2.0. But, who knows what is in the case now. There were a whole lot of these cases produced. They weren't considered anything special for many years. Shops back then were just about getting the car back on the road. Not purity so much.

2.0s and 1.7s have different parts in the case. Connecting rods and crank and cam shaft. 2.0s also have a windage tray. Hopefully you have 2.0 parts in the case.

Your fuel injection is from a 1.7.

Any time you see a connector like this one that is just attached to the fan shroud and engine case and transmission and chassis, it's just a ground.

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Ahh yes, up on the driver side, now I see it. Interesting. So 1.7 top end. Can you read the number off the injectors? That could tell us the current displacement.

As for the lug, I remember reading somewheere in R&T back in the late 70's that the factory placed that plug there for a convenient ground lug for one's timing light. Maybe...
My 71 1.7 had the lug original to the car....

Well, here are a few more engine pics. The injector was yellow in color when I removed a boot. Underneath it seems the PO had done some stuff. The heads look clean, new oil filter? push rod tubes not leaking? Who knows?

Question, got the fuel pump running by knocking on it with a hammer. This was after I went out and got new relays and tried them and still no fuel pump. So, I put the old ones back in and read an article to give the fuel pump a few knocks with a hammer, did that and it started running LOL!

But there is no fuel getting to the cylinders I think? I took out a spark plug and no smell of gas. I have spark from coil to distributor to plugs.

Any suggestions? Fuel filter was flowing when I undid a line to see if fuel was coming out.

??? So, cranking over now, pump running but no fuel to cylinders

I don't have a good answer but after having spent months trying to breath life back into a a long-dormant engine, I found it invaluable to get a cheap (Harbor Freight) fuel pressure gauge and hook it up to the test port between injectors 1 and 2. I eventually made it semi-permanent by zip tying it to the rear firewall and referenced it a lot when I was having drivability issues.

If you have pressure (spec is 28-29 psi) then I suppose all of the injectors could be plugged but that would seem unusual.

More likely it has to do with the trigger points in the distributor or the ECU not firing. A lot of threads on this.

Ron

Further thoughts. If not already, you will no doubt find your way to this site:

https://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetParts.htm

If it turns out that you have pressure I'd start with the electrical ECU test checklist (Step 10) This will verify if pulses are coming into the ECU from the trigger points and also if there is good connectivity from the ECU connector to the injectors. Also make sure to check the injector wire ground lug near the throttle body.

Good luck!

Ron

I believe yellow are 1.7 injectors. Not sure how changeable the heads are but I would be careful until you know what is on what with this thing. If you ran a 1900 engine with 1700 injectors it's going to be very lean.
If you are getting pressure in the rail I would look to the injectors and dizzy first.

You can turn it over with an injector out to check if they are firing, just put it in a can with a paper towel etc.

It is possible they are all gummed up and not firing. Just don't light the car on fire trying. The injectors are cheap so just getting a new ones isn't a terrible idea if you think they might be gummed up. Not sure if I would buy a full set till I knew what I had underneath. Does anyone ever put 1.7 heads on a 2.0?


Pulling the distributor is easy, I would do it, and clean the advance/retard plate and clean up the trigger points/ check their condition. ECU rarely goes on these cars.

something else to think about is the pressure regulator if the fuel pressure is low.

Well, one side of the fuel regulator has gas but the outlet side to drivers side rails is bone dry. New regulator needed? And I think this whole thing is a 1.7 most likely.

The regulator goes between driver side rail and the return line. Pressure builds behind the regulator then excess fuel goes back to the tank. If it's between the two rails it's plumbed incorrectly.

Check your other thread, pretty sure you are not plumbed correctly. The regulator goes AFTER the fuel rails, not before. Pump feeds the passenger side rail, over to the driver side rail, into the side port of the regulator and then back to the return line.

Pump feeds the passenger side rail. Then the driver side rail. Then the fuel pressure regulator. Then the return line.

Ok, so after looking at Bowsley diagram. The pressure hose from the pump is feeding up and through the fuel rails on the passenger side then over through a hose to the drivers side, then through drivers rails to a pressure regulator trunk end and out the other end of the regulator and hoses back to the battery passenger side and down to the return inlet of the fuel pump...... Sound right? If yes, then I'm not getting fuel pressure up and through the rails all the way to the other side to the inlet regulator. It seems. The outlet side of the regulator I took off the hose and there was gas, but that was between the outlet regulator and inlet back to the fuel pump. So now I'm thinking maybe I should disconnect the hose at the Pressure out of the pump and see if we're pumping gas....And I'm going to take off the passenger side rail hose to see if there is gas there first, if not then we ain't getting pressure right from the start.....I'm thinking LOL

The safe way to test for fuel pressure in the fuel ring, is to use a fuel pressure gauge inserted into the fuel ring somewhere. It’s a closed system so if you have pressure you’ll know it quickly….or not. If not either your pump is faulty or there is a kink or blockage in the supply line. A good place to tap in is to use the cold start valve branch. A FP gauge is a basic tool for anyone working on a fuel injected engine like ours.

I have used that branch as well for fuel pressure on the driver side. Make absolutely certain you have the pressure line from the pump going to the right place. I could imagine someone screwing that up.

Where can I find out what heads I have? Where is that located. Where to look? I thought in the beginning when I got this that it was a 1.7 because of the round air filter. And the angle of the plugs. So, heres a stupid question. Is it OK to have a 2.0 block with 1.7 heads and D-jet. I'm pretty sure now this is what we have from the PO.

Yeah, the plug angle tells you and the number of studs on the intake ports. 3 studs per side is a 2.0. If the plugs are pointing up like yours it's a 1.7 and will have 4 studs for the intake runner.

As long as it is all 1.7 bore and stroke you should be fine. How to determine that is not as easy. If you do have a 2.0 bottom (case and crank) that is good news. They are both better built than the 1.7. I am not at all sure how you could easily determine the bore and stroke with the engine in the car. Perhaps others here have better info on that. I am not even certain you could slap 1.7 heads on a 2.0 . 2.0 heads are notorious for dropping valves/cracking near the plug etc etc so it wouldn't at all surprise me for someone to do it if it is possible. Problem is the valves on a 1.7 are much smaller than the 2.0 and they just can't breath like a 2.0. If you are serious about getting this thing going I think it is safe to get it running as is but just don't drive it too much and keep an eye on the temps until you are certain what you have. After you get it going I would suggest a cylinder head temp gauge and an air fuel ratio gauge, but that's not worth it until you have it going.

When I look underneath at the heads, they seem pretty clean. So who knows? Good question, can you put 1.7 heads on a 2.0 case? Are you saying 2.0 heads are notorious for dropping valves/cracks or 1.7 heads?

Thanks for the gauges advice.

the wrist pin height is different at the pistons for a 1.7 and 2.0
so the motor (any motor) would have to have pistons to match the crank and rods...
or things wont fit....


you can change heads with a little machine work between motors

most likely you have all 1.7 parts in a 2.0 case.

That would be my bet as well.

I suppose its possible the whole bottom end could be 2.0 BUT 1.7 heads won't fit 2.0 cylinders without modifications, and seems unlikely someone would have thrown 1.8 heads on a 2.0 bottom end with 1.7 injection. but i suppose anything is possible. Only way to really know whats in there is to take one of the heads off but given the 1.7 heads and injection I would probably just assume its all 1.7 internals.

I agree with you.
I'd not take the head off either...
I might throw an AFR on it to verify mixture.
and that most likely will confirm it has 1.7 internals too.

Yeah, everything points to that. The 2.0 heads are the fragile flowers.

Get it going, then double check your air fuel ratio. Waiting on plugs to tell you might be too late if it is super lean. Again I really doubt it from what the others have said. Just something to keep in mind.