Since last friday my engine has been leaking oil. Well, that's not true. It's been leaking oil since 1982, but that's beside the point. Now it's leaking more. I've noticed after parking now that some whitish-blue smoke comes off of the exhaust heat exchangers for the heater. It's dripping from the valve covers and pushrod tubes. I know what I need to stop the leaking, so I'll make a whole day out of it in a week or two (definitely before the A/X on the 27th).
My question is this: How common are leaking valve covers and pushrod tubes? After my last oil change in oil cooler re-hookup I had a minute drip. Now it's $1.00 puddles overnight. Are there more seals to replace besides pushrod tube O-rings and valve cover gaskets?
Full Version: 'Normal' Oel leaks.
is your valve cover cocked? Ive had a gasket tuck up on me on installation
AA
AA
Those leaks are pretty common. The fixes are relatively easy.
Tip (which I got from Raby originally)--Put the valve cover on so that the little "VW" logo on the outside is upside-down. Make sure the cover is securly on the head and not cocked partly-off, and make sure the gasket has not slipped out anywhere.
--DD
Tip (which I got from Raby originally)--Put the valve cover on so that the little "VW" logo on the outside is upside-down. Make sure the cover is securly on the head and not cocked partly-off, and make sure the gasket has not slipped out anywhere.
--DD
..and remember they don't leak oil. Their marking their territory! 
My best,
Mike D.
My best,
Mike D.
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Aug 1 2005, 09:50 AM)
Put the valve cover on so that the little "VW" logo on the outside is upside-down. Make sure the cover is securly on the head and not cocked partly-off, and make sure the gasket has not slipped out anywhere.
after you put the cover back on and secure the clip, grab the cover and try to move it downwards to seat correctly ...
Andy
Talk to MattR,
At this point he is a proffesional at such things..!!
Twystd1
At this point he is a proffesional at such things..!!
Twystd1
Use a new valve cover gasket each valve adjustment, glue it with gasket sealer to the cover only, not the head!
That is interesting about the VW logo being upside down, with out the cover in front of me, what is the difference besides the logo on the covers side per side???
Also the pushrod seals should be replaced with Viton seals, not anyother, as the viton will last the longest. These seals are abit difficult to replace, you have to be really clean and careful, and do not let the oring twist or get pinched. Help the tube oring on with a small blunt wooden stick, when intalling the tube on the motor Also lube the orings before install. You will want to replace any dented tubes, and you might dent some while removing them,so be prepared to maybe buy some or all new tubes for reasons of dents (dents can hit the pushrod, wearing a hole in the tube remember the push rod goes up and down a bit as it pushes and comes back.) Besure to label all rockers, and pushrod to assure they go back in the same position. I even markt he pushrod as to which end goes intot eh lifter, and which into the rocker. The parts should be installed the same way, as that is how they have been worn in place.
Also sources of leaks are the oil pressure sender, the unit can leak between the plastic and metal housing. (or just be lose in the threads) a very cheap easy fix.
the oil cooler seals (or cooler itself) could be leaking.
Other than that the rear main seal or even the front could be a leak issue.
Be sure you have crank case venting to the intake. If the crank case venting has been removed (carb conversion or mistaken removal of "smog stuff" ) you will develop leaks. also the oil cap must be on tight to allow the venting system to work right, besure all the hoses are tight, all the little bubber elbows not cracked, etc...
anyway, you'll need to clean off the oil under the car(foaming engine brite is my favorite) and inspect for the leak source(s). hope it is the easy thing.
good luck.
That is interesting about the VW logo being upside down, with out the cover in front of me, what is the difference besides the logo on the covers side per side???
Also the pushrod seals should be replaced with Viton seals, not anyother, as the viton will last the longest. These seals are abit difficult to replace, you have to be really clean and careful, and do not let the oring twist or get pinched. Help the tube oring on with a small blunt wooden stick, when intalling the tube on the motor Also lube the orings before install. You will want to replace any dented tubes, and you might dent some while removing them,so be prepared to maybe buy some or all new tubes for reasons of dents (dents can hit the pushrod, wearing a hole in the tube remember the push rod goes up and down a bit as it pushes and comes back.) Besure to label all rockers, and pushrod to assure they go back in the same position. I even markt he pushrod as to which end goes intot eh lifter, and which into the rocker. The parts should be installed the same way, as that is how they have been worn in place.
Also sources of leaks are the oil pressure sender, the unit can leak between the plastic and metal housing. (or just be lose in the threads) a very cheap easy fix.
the oil cooler seals (or cooler itself) could be leaking.
Other than that the rear main seal or even the front could be a leak issue.
Be sure you have crank case venting to the intake. If the crank case venting has been removed (carb conversion or mistaken removal of "smog stuff" ) you will develop leaks. also the oil cap must be on tight to allow the venting system to work right, besure all the hoses are tight, all the little bubber elbows not cracked, etc...
anyway, you'll need to clean off the oil under the car(foaming engine brite is my favorite) and inspect for the leak source(s). hope it is the easy thing.
good luck.
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