Asking the engine builders here:
Is it ever an option to reuse rod nuts /4, stock crank, rods, mild cam, 96mm pistons, carbs, street use only by adding maybe 5 ft/lbs to the rod nuts? They were torqued once to 24 ft/lbs and wishing to reuse them could I get away with maybe 30 ft/lbs?
thanks
Full Version: Nuts
QUOTE(930cabman @ Mar 4 2022, 04:24 PM) 
Asking the engine builders here:
Is it ever an option to reuse rod nuts /4, stock crank, rods, mild cam, 96mm pistons, carbs, street use only by adding maybe 5 ft/lbs to the rod nuts? They were torqued once to 24 ft/lbs and wishing to reuse them could I get away with maybe 30 ft/lbs?
thanks
/4 rod nuts can be reused - they are not a torque to yield fastener. Do not change the torque spec.
Note: I just checked AA and new rod nuts are $5.00/each for a total of $40. Strangely, they just show a common hex nut not the OEM style rod nuts
Stock bolts (nuts), stock spec.
Your rod big end has been machined torqued to the stock spec, changing to a different spec may be enough to distort the big end.
Example, ARP bolts are ballpark 40 lbs which is enough to the distort the big end, therefore you have to machine the rod torqued at the new spec you will be using.
Your rod big end has been machined torqued to the stock spec, changing to a different spec may be enough to distort the big end.
Example, ARP bolts are ballpark 40 lbs which is enough to the distort the big end, therefore you have to machine the rod torqued at the new spec you will be using.
Thank you for the replies.
QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Mar 4 2022, 06:13 PM)
Stock bolts (nuts), stock spec.
Your rod big end has been machined torqued to the stock spec, changing to a different spec may be enough to distort the big end.
Example, ARP bolts are ballpark 40 lbs which is enough to the distort the big end, therefore you have to machine the rod torqued at the new spec you will be using.
Yea, when we send the rods to the machine shop, the bolts go with them.
I forget where that I saw it, Haynes, Clymer or the factory book but the "shoulder" on the stock nuts is staked into the recess of the rod. Is anybody doing this? or red Locktite? I generally use enough oil to lubricate the threads for an accurate torque value.
Staking was used on some early engines and other VW type 1,2,3 if I recall
Utterly worthless to stake to prevent them from loosening. Proper torque and stretch of the fastener is the only thing that prevents a rod nut from loosening.
Ditch the oil on assembly. Clean and dry threads of all oil with real brake cleaner.
Use Red Loctite and torque to spec (24 lb-ft). That was the Tom Wilson book info. Worked for over 100k on my 1.7l rebuild back around 1989! The Red Loctite is going to give you about the same friction as the oil when you do the tightening.
If Raby video recommends something else - that would be fine too.
@930cabman
Utterly worthless to stake to prevent them from loosening. Proper torque and stretch of the fastener is the only thing that prevents a rod nut from loosening.
Ditch the oil on assembly. Clean and dry threads of all oil with real brake cleaner.
Use Red Loctite and torque to spec (24 lb-ft). That was the Tom Wilson book info. Worked for over 100k on my 1.7l rebuild back around 1989! The Red Loctite is going to give you about the same friction as the oil when you do the tightening.
If Raby video recommends something else - that would be fine too.
@930cabman
QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Mar 5 2022, 10:29 AM)
Staking was used on some early engines and other VW type 1,2,3 if I recall
Utterly worthless to stake to prevent them from loosening. Proper torque and stretch of the fastener is the only thing that prevents a rod nut from loosening.
Ditch the oil on assembly. Clean and dry threads of all oil with real brake cleaner.
Use Red Loctite and torque to spec (24 lb-ft). That was the Tom Wilson book info. Worked for over 100k on my 1.7l rebuild back around 1989! The Red Loctite is going to give you about the same friction as the oil when you do the tightening.
If Raby video recommends something else - that would be fine too.
@930cabman
Great information, I was wondering about the "staking method"?
QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Mar 5 2022, 10:29 AM)
Staking was used on some early engines and other VW type 1,2,3 if I recall
Utterly worthless to stake to prevent them from loosening. Proper torque and stretch of the fastener is the only thing that prevents a rod nut from loosening.
Ditch the oil on assembly. Clean and dry threads of all oil with real brake cleaner.
Use Red Loctite and torque to spec (24 lb-ft). That was the Tom Wilson book info. Worked for over 100k on my 1.7l rebuild back around 1989! The Red Loctite is going to give you about the same friction as the oil when you do the tightening.
If Raby video recommends something else - that would be fine too.
@930cabman
If you want to be sure they never come off use Loctite 620 on the threads.
ARP, Carrillo, SCAT, CB and most aftermarket rods (bolts/nuts) use a moly type grease.
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