I'm a new user to POR 15 and so far it's done everything I wanted it to do as far as treating rusty metal with a hard surface. So, what's the post about? After searching out the various combinations of sizes and prices, I picked a quart can. A little goes a long way and now I have about a pint left to seal up and hope it's usable in the future. Unless you know you are going to use the whole quart for sure, I'd recommend getting the six pack of 4 oz cans. A little more money but I'd rather have some unopened cans to store than one opened $50 can.

Make sure to wear proper PPE. It has some very toxic fumes.

Great advice.

My experience with quart size POR-15 was opening and closing the lid between uses. Eventually I could not remove the dried stuck lid. I think I learned on this forum about punching two small holes in the bottom instead and store upside down. Piece of fresh duct tape over the holes after use to keep it from drying out inside. It's been great for over a year now.

Agree, and I went as far as using a small plastic scoop to pull out what I needed to not get it in the top of the can where the lid seals.

Also where gloves because that stuff really is a pain to get off!

wipe the whole rim and its groove absolutely clean with thinners.
and seal afterwards with tape.
you will get the lid off then.

my trick is to ladle it out of the can with a little spoon.
i get the spoons by keeping the ones that come with washing detergent packs.
i seal up the can as soon as i have the amount out i think is right for the job.

Super dangerous stuff. Basically, vapors solidify when they come in contact with moisture in your lungs. People have died. Use the proper respirator.

I put syran wrap over the top before putting the lid on. Seals and is reusable without having to pull a bunch of tape off.

Also, make sure to read the directions for use and follow them or you’re wasting your time and money. It doesn’t treat rusty metal, it encapsulates it. For best results, remove as much rust as you can (preferably all of it), then convert what you couldn’t remove using their metal ready /prep or Ospho, or some similar product. Than clean the area thoroughly, THEN use the Por15.
If directions are followed it gives very good results. I did my floor pans over 10 years ago and they look exactly like the day after I did them.

If you have a half quart left, go to a local paint store and buy 1 pint or 1/2 pint paint cans. Try ebay also. Store the extra paint in small cans. Remember it cures when exposed to air.

Does this stuff come in a spray can?

@windforfun - Yep, I've used it on some of my yard art projects. Follow the directions, as mentioned above.

Would you please provide a link to this. Does it come in colors other than black? Many thanks!!!

It’s self-leveling, so brush application comes out super smooth. I would never spray it. Too dangerous.

How well would it work in the hell holes? Marathon blue metallic is preferable. Thanks.

Better than syran rap or tape! Take the new can of POR15 and punch two holes in the top lid and screw in two large lag screws.....When you need some, unscrew the lag screws, poor some out and put screws back in. The POR 15 around the screw makes it self sealing but unscrews easily each time. Best, Mark

FYI, POR15 is not UV protected, paint over it.

I have used Por15 for many many years. If the rusty metal is treated right this stuff has no equal. One of the scientist behind por15 started a new company to compete. I don't remember the name off the top of my head. I find it works the best to bead blast the parts then degrease then metal etch.
Spraying is the best method to apply. They have a new primer that sprays over por15.
I have this done to almost all parts of 9146 I saved. If I seal both sides of a metal seam how can it rust? Rust needs moister and air and food....

Matt

A lot of guys on the truck forums are switching to Magnet Paint Co. Chassis Saver.

i use wax paper to reseal lid and can.

Interesting...
Figures, I just bought a can of POR15 last month... Nice to learn an alternative option exists.

I read some of the forums with discussions about POR15 vs Chassis Saver. Reminds me of the the endless "which oil" is better debates. These two products look very similar in chemistry (humidity cured urethane), and as long as applied properly, I would bet they perform equally.

This is my favorite

Just make sure to prepare the surface properly or the POR15 will come off in sheets.

Somebody once told me that an unused piece of a quart can of POR-15 lasts better if refrigerated. I have no idea if it's any better stored "chilled" than at room temp but I've kept mine in a small dorm fridge in the garage for several years and it's always good when I pop the cap.

I second the partial can in fridge storage plan. Seems to last a very long time when stored that way... I'd recommend avoiding primary refrigerator if possible

Smallest can you can buy for your needs and PPE is a must. I think the screws in the lid is a great idea as well. I’m not a fan of putting anything other than beer/food in a refrigerator [color=#000000][b]EVER!

Not a big fan of POR. If you don't have any rust I would not use this instead of epoxy primer and a chassis paint of your choice.

This is the same reason why you are supposed to store Cyanoacrylate glue (crazy or super glue) in the fridge or freezer. The relative humidity is much lower at cold temperatures. Since both paints use humidity / moisture to cure (same for super glue), less relative humidity means longer shelf life.