I've seen a lot of 914 owners incorporate a 911 oil pressure gauge (and aftermarket oil pressure gauges) into their 914 dash. Since oil level and oil pressure are two different things, what is the oil pressure helping a 914 driver monitor or prevent from happening?

I've never owned a car with an oil pressure gauge. The stuff I'm reading on Google is all over the place and I can't find anything specific to 914s.

Thanks in advance for the education.

IMO, nothing specific to 914s, just a driver/owner's preference to monitor engine status for wear or failure.

I'm perfectly happy with the idiot light that tells me to stop the car. Anytihng else just causes me distraction and needless worry. In fact, I removed my center console, for that reason and for more leg space.

Lots of data that shows you're not alone. At this stage, few even know what to do with the gauges when they have them.

I agree that it really isn't going to help you if there is a problem but it will help you see the problem coming. Oil pressure lights come on way too late to help minimize damage. Oil pressure gives you a sense if something is going on with your engine. I know how much I get when the oil is cool, hot n hot, on the highway cruising at speed etc. If those numbers change I know something is unhappy (low oil is one of the first things it warns me about). The engine temp gauge + the oil pressure can tell you all kinds of valuable things that can keep you from causing damage. Personally I like it there for that reason. Oil temp, oil pressure, and head temp. I think they are critical to stop you from hurting something. But it is sometimes better to just not know...

that said, putting the sender in isn't fun. The threads in the block are unobtanium for a fitting these days.

I agree.. Might be more useful on a six. I was told 10lbs for every 1k RPM's. My 3.2 six has a stock pressure gauge which reads in Bars, so pretty worthless except to tell you, you have pressure.

Not sure what is meant here.

Threads in block are no mystery. M10x1.0 Metric pipe taper.

However, a 1/8" NPT will also work. I know people get mad and say that 1/8" NPT isn't the same as M10 x 1.0 taper. They are correct.

However, are so close as to be interchangeable in a pinch. Sort of like a 19mm socket and a 3/4" socket either will work.

Either way, any decent hose fabrication shop can obtain and build to your specification. The key being the fitting has to be a pipe taper.

When my hose broke I bought a whole selection off amazon (nobody around here, even the shops that specialize in fittings, can get m10x1 pipe thread to 1/8NPT needed to fit a hose). None of the amazon versions were correct. Eventually I sucked it up and forced the closest one I could get and used copper tubing to the sender.

I think you misunderstood. No adapter needed. Just thread the 1/8" NPT in. Done.

I don't expect folks to take me at face value. It is the internet after all.

Here is a side by side comparison of 1/8" NPT spec obtained from 27th edition Machinery's Handbook vs. DIN 158 spec that I could find on the web. Was actually surprised I couldn't find the Metric Pipe Thread Spec in the Handbook so i used what I could find on the web and actual measurement of VW sender P/n 021 919 081B

You will see the thread forms are the same until you get to the 3rd significant digit. Since pipe taper threads work via interference fit due to the taper, what happens is that you will get a little bit earlier or later engagement when the thread forms (primarily due the Threads per inch differences) are intermixed. However, the liquid tight seal will still be established by the interference fit of the tapers and thread forms.

Click to view attachment

As noted previously, the thread forms are not exactly the same. However, they are close enough that M10 x 1.0 taper and 1/8" NPT have been intermixed on 914's for decades and many people never even noticed that they had done it.

Metric thread form sources:

https://www.pressol.com/informationen/spezi...in-158/?lang=en

and

https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/3032...aryland-metrics

Sorry - apology owed to OP for getting so far off topic.

VDO makes a 2 pole sender that threads right in. Some cutting of the tin is required and it's a pretty close fit with the distributor, but you can get a oil pressure gauge and oil light to both function at once.

Ditto. It's kinda like having a S meter on an old shortwave radio.

Ditto. It's kinda like having a S meter on an old shortwave radio.

I'm an engine builder and if I have to choose between the stock idiot light or a VDO gauge the idiot light wins hands down. In fact I will not let a car leave my shop without a working stock idiot light. My expensive 3.0 /6 engine when new I only had the stock idiot light for the first month or so until I installed the gauges.

Pressure gauges are OK for telling you your PSI hot/cold and over the life you may even see a small decrease, but in the event of a failure or the light on in a long curve (T4) nothing gets your attention faster than the stock idiot light. Also if your gauge isn't in your line of sight, for example it's in the console, it's pretty well useless anyways. Are you going to watch your console mounted gauge at 110+mph in a long sweeper? No you're not, but if a dash idiot light comes on you'll see it.
Gauges are a good addition, I like them and they have their place, but they do not replace the stock idiot light and sender.

Note that I keep saying "stock idiot light", as the double VDO senders idiot light sender is notoriously slow to respond when compared to the simple stock switch.

And if you want to improve the visibility of that light, $25 in LEDs and some wire and piggyback terminals helps.

Yellow - GEN
Red - oil pressure
Blue - high beams
Green - turn signals

(Yes, I changed the oil to RED! I dont know why VWPA used red for the GEN warning and green for the oil pressure...)

This did not require any mods to the car's wiring; I used some male-male terminal piggybacks/jumpers/whatever you want to call them. I did drill holes in the overlay panel butthose are not had ot find cheap if you need to go back.

Click to view attachment

I found one on the internet a few years ago
not sure why they would dry up.. maybe supply problems?
check belmetric and the other big suppliers


if you don't want to seek out a metric one...
go to the flaps and buy a replacement grease gun hose... which is the correct SAE size
or buy an paint gun hose... also the same SAE size.

brant