I recently pulled my HE and exhaust to get access for pulling and replacing the leaking push rod tube seals and several of my exhaust studs backed out. the motor is a new build of about 9 months and 2k miles on the road. I have the red locktite , would this be what to use for preventing these from backing out in the future?

Phil

What kind of exhaust nuts are you using? The copper coated flange nuts are usually locking type, which will make the studs back out.

Use non locking flange nuts, and milk of magnesia on the threads.

I don't think locktite works on exhaust studs.

If the studs are all-thread type, it's harder to make them tighten up and stay in. I like the studs with the non-threaded section. You can snug them up into the head.



Don't think locktite works well in the head area. Too much heat.

thanks for the responses, yes i did have the copper ones yiu are talking about, they are the studs with non threaded part in middle so i should be able to get them snugged in and i will get some non-locking 13mm nuts and washers rather than the flanged ones.

The studs with the female Allen wrench tips work pretty well too.

Try loctite sleeve fit 620 green, it's worked for me in the past.
But all loctite products will be severely deteriorated due to the heat.

Check the head threads carefully and/or if they won't take 14-17 lbs torque they're very likely stripped, even if they 'look' good. Only silver lining is I'd rather them pull/back out than snap a stud, easier to repair.
Also a good time to inspect the mount ears on the HE's (if SSI) for cracks or bent.

OK will do, thanks for that advice.
The SS exchangers are in excellent condition with no signs of any issues on the mounting ears.

Racer Chris suggests 14lbs on SSI's.

the release temperature of Red loc-tite is 500 F

which is pretty close to what the head might see at the stud

the red might work.... but its really not the right temperature range and may not work at all.

i just saw these on a recent search and wondered if they would work.
they were the correct length and thread….

A stainless steel acorn nut with a ball bearing makes a good stud installer

When you go to install the exhaust system put antiseize on the exposed thread and nuts

thanks for the input, yes the nuts on the ones that backed out were those self locking copper flanged ones. I went ahead and installed all 4 that came out , and i have new flanged but not locking type nuts to use when i reinstall the HE this week. In the past i have seen the nuts that dont lock back ofd and loosen then you get a loose HE and leaks, so hard to say which is worse. This should be back on the car saturday, i am just waiting for the new clutch disc to arrive, but i pulled and replaced all the leaking seals including RMS and the trans output seal. I cant believe there wasnt one supplier that could get me a clutch disc in a few days. every one of htem was quoting a week-10 days. heck i would have paid a bit more if i could have gotten one from fLAPS but none of them had the ability to order one, so it was either ebay or AA.

If you get 13 mm nuts, your 13 mm socket may be too big to fit where the its tightest between the exhaust tube and nut. I got 12 mm M8 nuts that are easier to fit.

good point, i had forgotten that was why i had 12mm on some of them !,
yes its a very tight fit for a couple of them.

thanks for pointing that out

I use the copper clad flanged nuts but I put a tap through them to clear out the pinch.or locking part. Honda has a 13MM 8/125 exhaust nut that works great but they are expensive . When I'm at the u pull it I take a few off a Honda engine . AL

This is a great point, I remember dealing with this in the past… so, what’s the common flange width? the ideal?


.