New build and have her running on a test bed/rolling cart for engine/trans installation. All seems tight with the exception of the rear main area. Short of dis assembly or slathering the cam plug and oil gallery plugs with sealant, has anyone tried pressurizing the oil system and visually looking for a leak? Everything looks ok, but she drips every 4 or 5 seconds when running.

Thanks in advance

Looks ok with the just trans removed?

Yes, I have ran the engine several times getting the carbs correct and noticed an oil drip, drip, drip from the engine/trans connection. This morning I separated the two and it is difficult what is the culprit.

When I worked for VW we used to put plastic wrap under the main seal and hammer it in then pressurize the oil galley with shop air at the oil switch and look for leaks.

Thanks Mel, I was thinking along the same line. Some guys try and try and try, but I prefer testing when possible.

What brand of rear main seal did you use?

I had a rear main fail on startup of my 2056 build. It was the orange Victor Reintz that came with the gasket kit.

After posting on this forum, several folks more experienced than I in engine building said that the only seal they will use is a Sabo.

I banged a Sabo in there and it was fixed.

Keep us posted.

However, Thought I had a rear main seal leak, and did replace it with the Sabo seal.

I also found a leak at one of the oil galley threaded plugs. They were the correct threads but not pipe thread and it would bottom out before binding the threads.

put some sealant on the threads.

Still have a slight weep, not enough to drip on the floor, but just enough to make the case oily.

Another thing to look at is on the flywheel where the seal rides. Polish it up. pitting there may cause a leak.

Definitely use only the black Sabo RMS. Press in the seal until it's flush with the case, no deeper. I've seen some RMS that were not as thick and could be pressed in a little deeper. Here's some reading gowesty RMS article

I had a leaker kind of like that a few years ago, and the sealing surface on the back of the flywheel had enough of a groove to cause a leak.

Sabo seals are hard to find!

Forgive the simple question, but is the o-ring installed in the rim of the flywheel? It’s often overlooked… and no bueno for leaks…

Yes, new O ring, thanks for the reminder
New seal is made by Elring

I have a couple old flywheels laying around, I am thinking to machine the center hub off, bolt it up to the crank and pressurize the system with 70 psi of shop air through the pressure sender. Hopefully seeing will be believing

Thanks to all for the replies, I am seeing this is not uncommon

VICTORY

Yes, I had an old flywheel laying around with some heat spots, machined the center hub off and torqued it in place with a new O ring and new Elring seal. Pressurized with about 70PSI and sure enough one of the oil galley plugs was dripping. Took everything apart cleaned things and put the culprit back in. No leak

Nice work!

Thanks Bob, I may offer this hub to others for testing prior to getting everything together, installed in the body only to find out they have a leak in the rear.

Not sure how to go about offering this remachined hub?

In my years of auto work I have found testing to be very valuable when possible as opposed to changing parts at will.

Hello @930cabman!
Can you share how you pressurized the engine with 70psi? Since I have my engine out, much as well do the same.

thank you!

Yes, connected shop air into the 1/8" female pipe port for the oil pressure sender. If you are having leaking at the flywheel end you will need something to seal the flywheel hub area. I picked 70psi because when running an oil pressure gauge indicated 70psi.

oh okay! I will try doing that too. thank you!

Ideally you will need a flywheel hub to see whats going on . In my case it was simple to see the leaking oil galley plug leaking. Next step is to assemble everything on the test stand and run her before installing into the chassis. Best of luck

Never had and an issue with VR gasket sets but appears they can't get crank seals right,not just for T4 motors,the one I fitted to my 911t motor would have leaked as it was rather loose in the case,I just pushed it in by hand and naturally it went in too far.
Pissed me off as I had to buy one in my country.....wait for it 89nzd with freight but at least it was a nice tight fit .