A few weeks back there was discussion about wheel alignments. DIY alignment was brought up. It seems with as many cars we have I should do the alignments myself. I have done it with tape measures and levels just to drive it to the alignment shop. Both times they told me I was dead on. I think I was just lucky, so I'm looking to get some better tools. If I remember right the Tenhulzen Wheel Alignment System was mentioned is that the one to get?

I’ve only one a home alignment (for my 996) and I struggled a bit due to a lack of turn plates so, I’ll be buying two sets of these:

https://www.amazon.com/8MILELAKE-Truck-Fron...t/dp/B07JP91QWH

I bought this guy for checking angle and thought it worked great:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Dig...35DAG/311131769

For toe, I bought two long sections of aluminum square tubing and cut matching notches on each one and used offshore fishing line for my string.

For measuring toe, you just need a good metal scale bar, preferably in millimeters.

Edit:
This article and video was pretty good too. Seeing it confirmed for me that I could do a decent job with limited tools.

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/at-home-alignment-...-align-your-car

I made turn plates by putting grease between squares of thick acrylic. Smooth thick metal would probably be better. Of course ball bearings would be even better.

Use string alignment, make some skid plates as worn said, then borrow or rent a camber tool. Very easy and fun job. MarkClick to view attachment

2 pieces of 1/2" conduit. Cut grooves equal distant at each end with a pipe cutter and set them at each end with fishing line. I use a digital level to measure camber. For turn plates, go to Home Depot and buy 4 pieces of 12 x 12 vinyl tile, smear a thin cost of grease between the shiny sides and sandwich them together.
Don't use PVC pipe as it flexes and will not give accurate readings.

My alignment setup

For Caster and Camber:



For toe:



This is a vintage Dunlop optical alignment tool set.

They still make the toe gauge, but it is not from Dunlop.


Clay

Where did you obtain? These original Dunlop's are virtually unobtainable and high $$ last I looked. Would be super cool if someone is doing reproduction of the Dunlop toe alignment tools

@ClayPerrine

I've used the Smart racing setup a lot when i was working the pit crew for Tom van Overbeek.
https://www.smartracingproducts.com/smartstrings

Works just as well on a 914.

I got them from a friend more than 20 years ago, so I can't help you with finding an original dunlop set. But there are copies out there. Look for a Sealey GA-50. It is an updated version that uses lasers.

ray scruggs
https://docplayer.net/21259604-Home-alignme...-alignment.html

Thanks for posting sixnotfour, (ray scruggs) very good information.

I have a group of friends, with several race/track cars and personal cars.. we bought the tools together.

We also have a set of turning plates for bearing stands on the scales.

If you have torsion release bearings this makes corner balancing and alignment a rational, repeatable, 2 hr job.

1 hr of setup. 30 min of adjustment, and 30 min of tear down.

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Clay, just a thought since i saw that Steve just posted on Instagram about Okteenerfest 2022, maybe we could do a clinic on this .

I’ve done a good number of front wheel alignments on RWD live axle cars. Also did a 4 wheel alignment on my ‘66 Corvette.

Toe setting: I use a Chraftsman laser level to record alignment settings via markings on masking tape strips stuck to garage walls in front of and behind the car. I either do this with the level bungied to the tire sidewall or, whenever possible, onto identical cylindrical spacers between the level and a flat / zero runout wheel surface near the tire bead. I then measure distances between left & right marks at the front and rear. Knowing the distance between walls allows calculating toe in / out accurately using some basic geometry. (Advantage of laser lever vs string method I tried at first: Taking front / rear measurements a greater distance apart … 20ft rather than just in front of & behind car results in greater measurement resolution, I.e. accuracy.)

Camber: use laser level mounted vertically as described for toe setting. If floor’s not level, any side-to-side slope (hopefully constant) must be measured and compensated for in calcs as necessary.

Caster: Bought metal signs at local hardware store. Use as slip plates after applying wheel bearings grease. Use a Longacre caster camber gauge.

Owned my 93 Mustang Cobra for 21 years / 200k miles. Nobody ever set the front alignment but me. I wore out 3 sets of Goodyear Gatorbacks (220 wear rating IIRC) in my ownership, and got a max of 78,000 miles from one set in mostly highway driving.